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2.25p into a 80in series 1

Landrover_Tim

Landrover_Tim

Trekker
The 1.6 engine has finally given up, and a friend of mine has 2.25p knocking about.


Has anyone seen one fitted in 80? and does anyone know if mounts need to be moved and will the gearbox mate up to a 2.25?

The engine parts for the 1600 engine seem very expensive so if this 2.25 could be fitted the landy can be back on the road.

Cheers Tim
 
Landrover_Tim said:
The 1.6 engine has finally given up, and a friend of mine has 2.25p knocking about.


Has anyone seen one fitted in 80? and does anyone know if mounts need to be moved and will the gearbox mate up to a 2.25?

The engine parts for the 1600 engine seem very expensive so if this 2.25 could be fitted the landy can be back on the road.

Cheers Tim
Click to expand...

The 2.25 won't fit directly onto the S1 box because the bolt pattern is different. I'm sure someone who's done it will be along soon to tell you what is needed. David
 
Front engine mounts are different - think you can use the WHOLE of the 1600 ones - ie take off engine. Check width of engine before starting.

Radiator bottom hose on wrong side - either use S1 diesel rad or modify front and fit S2 or 3 rad (rads are wider - think you'll get away with 2 angle sections suitably drilled to mount a later rad)

Throttle linkage may be a problem as carb on wrong side. As 1600 has cross rod going right across behind engine you may be able to mount S2/3 linkage after that. S2/3 linkage would be mounted on bulkhead re-inforcement which is much the same from 86in onwards - none on 80in so you will have to adapt there.

S2a engine has a bigger intake than 80in/S1 - so either use 80in air cleaner and restrict air or use S2/3 air cleaner - whereupon the clamp doesn't fit and its very close to or touches the bonnet. Same goes for air hose - carb connection. If you're fitting a different rad make sure that doesn't get too high.

Clutch - joins straight on if you use a S1 diesel, S2 or S2a gearbox and bellhousing. (remove hydraulic mechanism and connect at sleeve. S1 (squashed) type sleeve should be used to allow for movement between gearbox and chassis). S3 is very different with the slave cylinder on the near side - so would need a hydraulic master cylinder - so best avoided.

Gearbox rear mounts should be kept as 80in type for simplicity. S1 diesel, 2 and 2a boxes have different mounts onto much the same crossmember - but have plates welded to crossmember and the mounts bolt to pressed steel wedges which bolt to the plates on the crossmember. Gearbox mount 'feet' are at different angles. - So use all of one system or all of the other. Mixing is hard work.

Handbrake should connect directly.

Speedo cable may need changing if gearbox is changed - cable comes out the other side.

Exhaust - problems - you'll have to make some part of it. Most 2/2a ones go downwards from the manifold. Some very early ones were different. The 80in has a longish pipe both sides of the silencer - from 86in on they all use the same rear silencer with the intermediate pipe bolting on very close. The outlet pipes of 80in and later exhausts are different - later one is very close to the rear wheel when fitted to an 80in.

Fuel pipe - easiest to use the S2/2a plastic pipe straight from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump - if available - screws straight on to tank fitting. You'll have to remove the sediment bowl from the 80in bulkhead. You could retain the electric fuel pump - but its more difficult.

And how much would it cost to repair the 1600 . . . .
 
not only all the work to swop to a later engine and involved costs, but also how much does the vehicle go down in value. there are not a lot of original engines about, shame to bin it.
 
The 1600 needs a rebore, and pistons are about 100 quid each, crank probs needs regrinding, head probs needs work. so would cost quite a bit of money to get back on the road. I do see where your coming from about keeping the vehicle original.
 
its a tough one, i know. some of the bits you might need are hard to get, but places have them. yes, a 2 1/4 could be had and fitted for a couple of hundred, but then might need a rebuild in a year. but then if the 1600 needs a grand throwing at it, it will add a grand to the value. a 2 1/4 will probably take a grand off :(
difficult decision to male.
 
there we go, only problem is you don't know exactly what it needs until its stripped. do you have somewhere you can take it for the crank grinding and rebore ?
 
usually about 25 -40 a bore depending on who does it and how good they are. best to get the bores measured and get someone to do the bores to the new pistons for a perfect fit, rather than get it done and then buy the pistons. it all soon adds up, but you end up with a better engine for it, at least you are starting fresh. nothing worse than buying a guaranteed good used engine only to find it smokes like a steam train.
 
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