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300tdi Oil leak from bellhousing to block?

tomreade

Accelerating Away
I have an oil leak on my 300tdi ( no surprises there then) it looks like it is coming from between then bellhousing and the block.
There is no oil coming from the wading plug on the bell housing so I dont think it's the crank shaft oil seal.
Antony got any ideas? It's not a huge amount its just while the engine is out I would like to sort it if possible :p
Tom
 
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Hey if you find those leaks, would you mind posting some pics as my 300tdi seems to have the same problem. I thought originally it was the sump gasket but having done that the leaks have continued. Cheers
 
There is no need to remove the gearbox to get at this, at least I don't think there is. I had mine done at a dealership whilst it was in for a service. Given that they only had the truck for a total of about 3 hours I am doubting they removed the gearbox.

If the leak is from the T seals, that fit in either side of the rear main bearing cap,
it is a relatively easy fix, sump off, rear main bearing cap off, replace T seals, re-assemble. Job done
 
Simple then? If anyone else has done this job please let us know, I'm tempted to do mine if its "simple" enough :)

What are the seals needed for the 300tdi? Mines a 1995
 
Is it engine oil or gearbox oil that is leaking ?

I have had a leak ever since getting 'Louis' and when I changed the clutch I checked everything and couldn't find the source of the blessed leak anywhere. On my 300TDi it is dripping from the lowest point of the bell housing and the oil looks quite clean (which would suggest the gearbox) but it isn't gearbox oil, so I thought it might be hydraulic fluid, but ever since changing all the crap Bitpart parts for Lockheed I know it isn't coming from there.

In the end I have come up with the thought that the gurus at LR have designed some special little bottle of clean oil to squirt drops out from time to time just to keep me happy searching away, lying on the dirty floor and looking at the beautiful underside of the engine!!
 
As far as I can make out from the parts book it is ERR913 packing strip.

I know when I had mine done, it had reached the stage where the bell housiing place would always be dripping with oil and I could never work out where it was coming from. Dropped the sump, replaced the silicon gasket goo, checked the rear crank oil seal, as best as possible. checked everywhere imaginable above the bell housing and whilst finding some minor leaks never discovered the source. As luck would have it I was rebuilding a series 2.25 lump and had new T seals for that, as part of a complete gasket set. The little light bulb came on in me head and hey presto, a fix
 
Thanks alot for the part number mate!

Im unsure where they are in the engine tho.. I will spend tonight trying to find some pictures of some one who has done it before!

Its abit weird that a Packing strip would cause a leak tho..
 
the T seal looks to sit quite far down between the bell housing and the block... I will check on my engine tomorrow but looks like to change them you would have to take the fly wheel and everything off? or does it just slide down from the top?
 
Just checked the Official Land Rover workshop manual and (on a 200tdi) it looks like it is possible to remove the rear main bearing cap without disturbing anything other than the sump/ladder frame. the 300 doesn't have the ladder frame so it should just be a matter of dropping the sump.

Land Rover make a couple of suggestions on how to make sure they are a good fit, including chamfering the botton edge of the T seal that sits up against the bearing cap, to make sure nothing gets trapped between the bearing block and crankcase. They also suggest the use of a pair of guides to enable easier fitment of the T seals. These items bolt to the block and have a very slight chamfer on them to ease the seal past the lip on the crankcase. Then there is the instruction that when you trim off the stub that is left exposed at the end of the job, you leave it standing proud by 0.80mm to, allow for shrinkage.
 
are you sure that the part number ERR913 is the same for a 300TDI as it is a 200tdi part number?
Tom
 
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I'm thinking i have this same leak. I have a 300tdi too. Just done a search and ERR913 is listed for the 300tdi.


image-590357629.jpg

So how easy is it to fit, and more to the point where does it fit?????
 
T seals err913.jpgIMG_0584.jpgIMG_0584.jpgtseal.jpgimage-590357629.jpgok done a bit more research, even joined AULRO now :). However im now at the point where i think this oil leak cannot easily be cured unless i have the engine split??????? Im fairly sure its my T seals that are causing my oil leak, they are ERR913 of which i need two, they fit on N05 main bearing sort of slid down the sides?? I have had my sump off earlier this year thinking my leak was from there, resealed it with RTV and surprise the leak has reappeared. When i had the sump off i do seem to recall two seams/ gaps at the rear edge (nearest to bell housing), which having looked up these T seals makes me think that is N05 bearing???

I have now found these drawings which show the T seals but it looks to me you have to fit from above???, which im guessing means the engine has to be split???, im hoping im wrong here.....does anyone know if it can be accessed from below, by which i mean simply taking the sump pan off, if this is possible what else should i be taking into consideration when tackeling this job???

Theres a pic from when i resealed my sump earlier in the year, its not a good pic but if you look at the far end it looks to me like there may be two bolts holding what i can only assume is that N05 bearing, could it be i can just whip those out, drop the bottom part of the bearing out hopefully that being the part where the seals are, and slip the new ones in...jobs a good un....no more oil leak????




oooooo just had a thought, could those diagrams be showing the engine UPSIDE down, it does look that way now ive studied my sump pic????
 
I think you are right - the diagrams show the bottom of the block.
My reasoning is that in the first diagram, you can clearly see the big end bolts and these are at the bottom, holding the crank up into the block via the end caps.
 
You may need to make up a "special tool" in order to fit them easily. The main bearing cap is a close fit in the block and the T seals sit just proud of the cap. Land Rover use 2 small chmafered blocks, that bolt to the block, to ease the T seal past the lip of the block. They also advise chamfering the T seal so it cannot get trapped between cap and block. I forget which side they suggest you chamfer, but it is in the manual.
 
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