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Anyone ever replaced the engine mount by the battery on a 2.0L Xedi?
- Thread starter Taipan
- Start date
Taipan
In Fourth Gear
For the benefit 0f the archives.
Well I replaced the mount today. In essence it's quite an easy job to do really, although mine was one of the worse jobs I've done on a car because the bolts were stuck, nay glued in, tight!
Anyway, the Haynes manual does take the long way to do it. I put it up on ramps and took the under tray off. Then dropped it back on the ground. I removed the air filter box (2 x 8mm bolts) and tied back the pipe that goes from that to the turbo. This allows you to get on the through bolt. If you followed the Haynes manual you'd remove all the clutch hydraulics out of the way and it may make it slightly easier? But it's still a pig to get a wrench of any description on!
This bolt was absolutely glued in. I need a long bar on the socket to try and get some leverage, but to no avail. Normally a bit of impact engineering (clump with a heavy 'ammer) cracks the seal and its done. But I just couldn't get the right combinations of bars extensions etc to do this! In the end I use one of those extension bars for undoing wheel nuts. This was just the right angle and length with an extension bar to be able to push hard and far enough between the engine and rad t crack the seal. It was then a very slow and laborious job to creep the bolt out one click at a time on a ratchet!
Eventually I won, but was about two hours to get to this stage! After that I supported the engine on a jack (with a piece of wood between it and the sump) and lowered it down until I could undo the two bolts that secure the mount to the chassis. It was then bloody fiddly getting the old mount out and the new one in. This was mainly due to my nervousness of lowering the engine that was pulling on the other mounts etc.
I put a smear of grease on the bolt where it goes through the alloy sleeve on the mount. So the next person should find the bolt comes out easier. Then just bolted the mount to the chassis and jacked the enine/box back up till the holes lined up and slid the bolt through. Torqued everything up and put the airfilter/undertray back on and job done. Reassembly took about 15 minutes, which was a lot better than the three odd hours it took me to get the old mount out!
It was a complete waste of time anyway as the vibration problem still exists. But you don't know until you try do you!
Well I replaced the mount today. In essence it's quite an easy job to do really, although mine was one of the worse jobs I've done on a car because the bolts were stuck, nay glued in, tight!
Anyway, the Haynes manual does take the long way to do it. I put it up on ramps and took the under tray off. Then dropped it back on the ground. I removed the air filter box (2 x 8mm bolts) and tied back the pipe that goes from that to the turbo. This allows you to get on the through bolt. If you followed the Haynes manual you'd remove all the clutch hydraulics out of the way and it may make it slightly easier? But it's still a pig to get a wrench of any description on!
This bolt was absolutely glued in. I need a long bar on the socket to try and get some leverage, but to no avail. Normally a bit of impact engineering (clump with a heavy 'ammer) cracks the seal and its done. But I just couldn't get the right combinations of bars extensions etc to do this! In the end I use one of those extension bars for undoing wheel nuts. This was just the right angle and length with an extension bar to be able to push hard and far enough between the engine and rad t crack the seal. It was then a very slow and laborious job to creep the bolt out one click at a time on a ratchet!
Eventually I won, but was about two hours to get to this stage!
After that I supported the engine on a jack (with a piece of wood between it and the sump) and lowered it down until I could undo the two bolts that secure the mount to the chassis. It was then bloody fiddly getting the old mount out and the new one in. This was mainly due to my nervousness of lowering the engine that was pulling on the other mounts etc. I put a smear of grease on the bolt where it goes through the alloy sleeve on the mount. So the next person should find the bolt comes out easier.
Then just bolted the mount to the chassis and jacked the enine/box back up till the holes lined up and slid the bolt through. Torqued everything up and put the airfilter/undertray back on and job done. Reassembly took about 15 minutes, which was a lot better than the three odd hours it took me to get the old mount out! It was a complete waste of time anyway as the vibration problem still exists.
But you don't know until you try do you!
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