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How Do I? Brake failure valve..Dual braking system.

bruce almighty

In Second Gear
i have a series III lightweight and although there are new shoes and new brake cylinders all round, the system has been bled and the pedal is hard. but only the back wheels stop when i do an emergency stop. the front wheels just carry on turning. the break warning light on the dash is always on but whatever i do i am unable to reposition the break failure valve for the light to go out. do i need to replace the break failure valve completely?!?!?
 
Unless you want to keep the truck original, take the valve out and connect the pipes, that will give you 2 seperate lines.

The valve wasn't a success, it usually snapped the bottom of the switch off.

Chris
 
Hi Bruce, welcome to the forum!

Quite often the switch breaks and you need to replace it. You can simply replace the piping where the switch would be with two junctions... this will still work to isolate one half of the system from the other (but obviously your warning light wont). The switch is quite expensive....

You'll probably find this thread interesting and informative.

Edit, TEMPL4R beat me to it!
 
thanks very much chris and big sandy for the advice..been sat for hours trying to bleed them...thin i wont bother anymore and just bypass the valve altogether and enjoy happy motoring again...:)

Eifion...AKA Bruce.
 
Bypassed mine and took it off.


I have been told the new valves are like rocking horse **** and very expensive evn when you can find one so didn't bother.
 
The brake balance valve on my 1989 Range Rover has been leaking for some time; brakes are more or less OK, but not great, and I'm not getting the benefit of the new calipers etc from where I cooked them a few months ago...

How do I plumb out the valve, and will it make any difference to how the car actually brakes? Any insurance implications?
 
Do you mean the pressure limiter valve?

It connects between one front brake circuit and the rear.

Chris

Don't know to be honest; I was TOLD it's called the balance valve, balanced pressure bewteen front & rear systems... andyway, the boit that leaks is a brass T-piece on the O/S inner wheel arch, just after the pipes leave the servo...
 
If it's a Tee shape with one pipe from the servo, the bottom ones to the front and one to the rear, it's a pressure limiting valve. It cuts off a bit of the pressure to the rear lines. A bit like a preset load sensing valve. You can take the rear parts out.

(The BFV is more of an H shape with a switch in the middle.)

A lot of cars have them,mainly small light cars, it is to stop the rears locking up.

If you remove it, ( there should be 2) then you will get more rear effort, so could lock therears up too easily and skid.

Chris
 
Just join the pipes that go into the shuttle valve to the pipes that exit the shuttle valve to the brakes. I did this with two three way unions bolted to the plate on the chassis that previously held the shuttle valve. Blanked off the unions not used. With a little tweaking now got the best brakes I have ever had on a series. If one circuit fails you still have the other which is what the shuttle valve ensured anyway.
 
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