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CB installation

Jerome

Jerome

Accelerating Away
Hi i've got a gutter mount that i was thinking of putting on the back of my roof rack (perhaps on the ladder), feeding the cable through the rack and drill/seal hole somewhere top side to get it in the cab. Any suggestions would be appreciated?

Cheers

Jerome
 
I ran the wire for my rear gutter mounted aerial through the air vents in the back of the car (as in, above the rear door) as it doesn't involve drilling a hole in the roof :D
 
My CB fitting instructions said to use an aerial cable no longer than 2metres, check yours as you'll end up using about 4m from the rear of a 110. Others may know if this makes a difference to signal or not.
 
I missed that Rob, the lead that came with mine was just long enough to go the right place on the back of my 90, so wouldn't go that far on a 110.
 
Have both defender and series and like paul H. put it on the gutter under the windscreen on near-side, wire just goes in the gap for the door.

if you have a soft top about the only place

Big advantage is low branches don't tear it off
 
Like the windscreen mount, but which gap for the door? I also presume i would have to remove and re-solder the plug on the coax if i went for the rear vent option?
 
"My CB fitting instructions said to use an aerial cable no longer than 2metres, check yours as you'll end up using about 4m from the rear of a 110. Others may know if this makes a difference to signal or not."

oops forgot to metion it came with a 4m cable, no mention of limit on length
 
The wire on mine is thin enough to go between the Screen rubber and the door pilliar, use a few cable ties to keep it all in place

mounted mine on the dash so passenger could use it
 
Hi

I fitted mine yesterday a Midland with the aerial attached to the roofrack, but the SWR meter is always in the red, have attached an extra earth but the problem is the same.

Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks

Myers:(
 
Very simply;

The Radio Frequency output from the CB is delivered up the aerial lead to the aerial.

The aerial (meaning the entire assembly, including any ground effects and the mountings etc) may need to be 'tuned' in length, to ensure that the length of the aerial is matched to the frequency of the RF.

The more energy that gets radiated from the aerial, the better. Any RF energy that is not radiated from the aerial is reflected back down the aerial lead to the transceiver.

The SWR is a measure of the amount of energy being 'reflected' down the lead.

This can be because your aerial needs tuning, but if the SWR is very high, it may also be because you have a dodgy connection in the lead, or it can be caused by damp in the lead.

If the aerial was working before, then it shouldnt need too much tuning. Even if its new, 2 inches sounds a lot to chop off... and remember, its difficult to add it back on again if you get it wrong!

I would use a process of elimination. Do you have a spare aerial that you could plug directly into the CB to check if the SWR is still high? or another CB that you can plug your aerial into?

If you cant test out the seperate parts of the system, then check all the cheap and easily tested bits first (cable and connectors) before doing anything irreversible to your twig.

If you have a repair shop anywhere near you (the people who fit and repair
radios to minicabs etc etc), they may be able to help you test it for the price of a beer...?

Just be careful when messing about with RF.. especially if you have a burner to boost the signal... (wot, me officer?)

M
 
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