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Chassis swap manual???

Backs4more

Backs4more

Trekker
Well, the time has come to make the decision...sell the 90 as an mot failure or get a new chassis. Since i have spent a lot on her a new chassis makes sense.

I want to do it myself but is there a manual out there to tell me what to do?? I have the Haynes manual and the Landrover manual but i was wondering if there was one that deals more with restoration/chassis changing??

Loads have folk have said its easy..but very few of them can tell me how to do it :D :D

Hellllp!!..lol
 
It has a section on chassis change, and mentions in that bit, that all the things you need to know are in the manual.

I've never done it, so may be wrong - I am quite good at reading tho :)
 
its pants , sorry stevo but the resto manual is a complete waste of money and time.
i bought one for my swap and read through it once before binning it.

backs4more if you need any advice this forum and others like it will be all the help you really need.
if you need a step by step guide then you really need to consider what it is exactly you wish to do.
there is two ways to start and each way needs careful consideration.

you can either strip the vehicle down , part by part , clean/paint/renew all crappy parts and build them back onto your new chassis.
or
you can lift the entire body off in one , swap the engine , gear box , axles , brakes etc over then lower the body back onto the new rolling chassis.

each way has its pros and cons.
the first way , you will end up with a solid rebuilt land rover but it will cost you , it will take time and it will be a complete pain in the ****.
the second way , you will need to be able to lift a complete land rover body and you might , if your not careful , end up with a crap land rover on a new chassis. but its quicker , cheaper and less hassle.

i opted for the first method , my land rover was pretty far gone although it didn't look so bad.
i ended up replacing the bulkhead, engine , axles , exhaust etc etc and believe me , it all adds up.

the best thing you can do , go and spend an hour or two underneath the land rover , inspect every nut , bolt , bracket etc and see what you can reuse or repair and take it from there. basically try and Sus out which of the two above methods you need to do.
keep in mind that lifting the body can be done in three parts.
see link below.

http://www.rovertorque.com/chassis.html

if you can give us some more information about your 90's general condition and where you plan to do the work we might be able to advise you more but don't be fooled by people telling you its easy or you may be jumping in to something unprepared, it isn't easy.
but its not impossible.


also look out for a land rover parts catalog and the workshop manual.
these will be your bible's and attempting to do this without them will only make things ten times harder.
 
Im going to be doing a chaais swap on my '89 90 soon, Ive been replacing as many bolts with new so when I come to do it I'll not spend valuable time removing knuckles :eek:

I've also been building a parts base up so I dont get hit at one time for "the little bits n Pieces" that like Nobber says realy do add up.

It's my main scoot so I'm also going to build the chassis up on a set of axles I'm in the process of rebuilding along with a set of Goodyear MTRs I purchased last week.

The Body work is in very good nick as most of it has been replaced over the years by the one and only other owner :)

The biggest problem i have is the misses she IS NOT happy about a 90 chassis sat in the back garden while it's built . However she's off to her mums for a week in feb so I've a feeling it might just appear like an overnight mushroom, before she returns :D
 

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i got all my nuts and bolts from these guys,

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/

go for the 8.8 zinc coated bolts and nuts , stainless bolts are not as strong.
for specific bolts , such as those holding the wings to the bulkhead i got from a landy parts dealer , much easier than trying to explain to a nut and bolt shop what i wanted. there are quite a few of these specific bolts and bits , this is why you need the parts catalog.
what i did was to write a list of all the jobs that needed doing , look through the parts book and workshop manual and then write out a parts list for that particular job. do this on the rebuild side of it all but when you strip it its very important to bag all the nuts , bolts small parts fixings etc and label them , this is very important and will save you headaches in the long run.
also re bush everything , you have the chance , you may as well take it.:)
 
All the non-stress bearing bolt are S/steel. As for the rest I have a very freindly supplier of parts close by. Im going to be building my own trailing arms for front and rear, The fonts are a laser cut plate and tube sandwich type.

And dont worry I dont intend replacing anything on this thing for some time so I'll replace anything I think will need it. Inc a rebuild of the g/box and t/box, the motor is OK for now, it runs like a train, besides I cant aford to do a rebuild on that at this time.
 
Shox Dr said:
All the non-stress bearing bolt are S/steel. As for the rest I have a very freindly supplier of parts close by. Im going to be building my own trailing arms for front and rear, The fonts are a laser cut plate and tube sandwich type.

And dont worry I dont intend replacing anything on this thing for some time so I'll replace anything I think will need it. Inc a rebuild of the g/box and t/box, the motor is OK for now, it runs like a train, besides I cant aford to do a rebuild on that at this time.
Click to expand...


ive got some front and rear trailing arms here, if you need them your welcome to them.
their destined to be chopped up with the old chassis other wise.
what ive done with most nuts and bolts is to paint them after installation with red oxide or kurust but i intend to waxoil everything anyways.
 
I also rewiring it starting with the rear end, all wiring will be inside. The vents have been de-hinged and sealed up, sold the vent levers for £20. The dash is going to be modified with a aux fuse board to the nearside next to the wiper motor, all the switches are going along the front where the cig lighter goes, with a raised parcelshelf, for all the wiring that will then be insulated to stop the mars bars from melting:D when on the parcelshelf.

I realy ought to start taking pics :p
 
nobber said:
ive got some front and rear trailing arms here, if you need them your welcome to them.
their destined to be chopped up with the old chassis other wise.
what ive done with most nuts and bolts is to paint them after installation with red oxide or kurust but i intend to waxoil everything anyways.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the offer, however Im building them with rod ends aka QT style.

As for paint the chassis it's going have all the holes welding/plated up all open channels are to be boxed and then shotblasted and then painted in Micaceous Iron oxide, (google it bloody fansatic stuff). Underside of the body and chassis when rebuilt with be treated in Dinol
 
nobber said:
ive opted to run my chassis harness out side the chassis , if it ever needs welding in the future and the harness is inside the chassis...:eek:

got it here
http://www.autosparks.co.uk/store/landrover/types.asp?t=90-110&l=121

top tip , photograph everythinhg.
espacially wiring connections. i was lost for days rewiring mine and some of it will have to be retro-wired.
Click to expand...

Like I say I'm rewiring it now the loom will be rebuilt with waterproof connectors where needed. joints where needed so all I have to do when the swap comes is unplug ;) .

I've not done a 90 rebuild before but I have rebuild plenty of other bits of kit, to have learnt the hard way :D
 
Thanks for the heads up on the manual, methods and links guys.

The vehicle itself is a '97 90 and the idea was to lift the whole lot off in one go. Unfortuantly I still dont have anywhere to do this so I was thinking of getting some straw bales (plenty in my area) and building a 3 sided "garage" with tarpauling roof supported by 4x4 beams.

I have spent a fair bit of money on things like bushes, suspension, propshafts, timing belt, exhaust etc so after sitting down and working out how much I have spent I have decided its probably best to re-chassis rather than sell as an MOT failure.

I am fairly competent at the practical things but am a little unsure regarding things like electrics and brake pipes!!

The idea would be to get a chassis, lift off the body, swap over all the running gear etc after checking bearings, bushes, painting axles, new fuel tank etc. and get the engine/gearbox strapped into place. Will replace the clutch while I am at it.

Bits of the body need replacing such as the seat box, floor panels but they can be done at a later date...although if i find funds I will do it whilst the body is seperate.

Alternativly I will get Strathearn to do it for £2550...but then I cannot paint axles etc....

Decisions indeed...
 
why do you need a seatbox? is it rotton? because if it is its quite possible that the brackets/flanges securing the tub are to. this can be repaired but its a right pain. hows the tub floor? check the floor crossmembers and around them for corrosion.
also be very careful about handing someone 2k+ to do it for you , there will be hidden costs unless fully agreed before hand.
what you see now is just the tip of the iceberg.

also when are you planning to do this? its going to get colder before it gets any warmer. gthe bails of hay would be a good idea.
 
The edges of the seat box where it bolts to the floor are a bit ropey, especially on the passenger side..hence wanting to replace.

Tub is fine :)

and Strathearn have been recommended by about 40 folk!!..lol..but I know what you mean about hidden costs ...cheers
 
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