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Chassis Swap

Cairnsie

Shifting Up
Starting to strip the bodywork off of a s111 this weekend in order to swap the chassis. The Chassis has just gone on order, so we got a couple of weekends before delivery, does anyone have any hints or tips on what to watch out for, what proves particularly difficult. How many discsI'll need for my angle grinder etc.

Cheers Cairnsie
 
Take a load of photo's as you strip it down, can often come in handy when putting it back together several week's down the line.
have fun Baz:)
 
keep a note of what wires go where.
keep all nuts and bolts for Jobs separate and labeled , order new nuts and bolts but i kept 100 m8 / 100 m10 8.8 bolts with 100 nylock for both and various washers etc. i also had a fair mix of other nuts and bolts and I'm running out.
get a complete new set of bushes , may as well eh.
buy a parts catalog , look at each individual job and at what you might need to replace, from this you can get a parts list that you can order as needed, Ive had to wait a week or more for parts while i twiddled my thumbs.
be over cautious with wiring , it can be a complete nightmare if you let it. jot down and photo everything if you can.
remember , stripping it is the easy bit but take your time and pay close attention to what you are doing, not much good if you don't know where it all goes when you come to refit it all.
buy some kurust.
 
I will be undertaking a chassis swap on my series 3 in a few months as well. <BUT> i will be shipping my land rover to the states on the 15th and would like to buy as many items/parts i'll need now. I'm sure the prices will be higher in the states after shipping even with the 2-1 exchange rate so i would like to buy most of what i need now. would someone who has done this job be willing to make a list of recomended parts/items that will be needed for the swap? so i don't get :smileysex later on shipping?

as of now i have:

* enough meters of window sills to redo all my windows.
* parabolic springs and dampeners
* paddocks is ordering my chassis on monday
* galvanised front bumper

i also have new halogens, fender top, footwell, and under door metal guards, like 5x wiper blades, and thermostat.

any thing else i don't have that i will need please let me know as time is running out!! lol (all my stuff in my house is being packed on the 12th so i have to have it by then.
 
Part no NRC1269 Steering relay. Its the one that is in the front crossmember, and can be an absolute pain to get out. Good idea to have a spare..its body is cast, so one misaimed clout with a hammer, and its gorn.
 
Cheers for the advice gents. We were uming and erring about getting a load ofmetric nuts and bolts, so you reckon a selection of M8's and M10's will see most done. What sort of lengths have you found useful.

Will definately be taking lots of photos of the wiring, I can't stand it at the best of times. But hopefully most of it will stay in tack on the bulkhead and we can just lift this over.

Cheers Cairnsie
 
I am also planning a chassis swap in the future and already laying in a stock of nuts and bolts, some stainless steel among them. I have found that screwfix is about the best for supplies. I buy other things from them for jobs around the house and add on a few bolts/nuts washers so I always get the free next day delivery.

I've a reasonable stock of M8s but I see M10s mentioned in the thread but the quantity looked high at 100 any better guess on how many you might need.

What about UNF bolts any must use places?

Be careful if like me you use stainless they are slightly weaker but great for getting off again I have used them for front wing attachment perhaps a bit over the top but I laid my hands on them for free when a pal moved to France.
 
Part no NRC1269 Steering relay. Its the one that is in the front crossmember, and can be an absolute pain to get out. Good idea to have a spare..its body is cast, so one misaimed clout with a hammer, and its gorn.
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I do not advise trying to get your relay out using a hammer.. You'll do yourself or the relay serious harm!
Use a more sophisticated method. Press the thing out.
Us a hydrolic jack placed on a 1/2" thick or similar, steel plate with heavy chain around the crossmember, like a swing. Then load or press the relay out gently and slowly. If you try getting your relay out with a hammer your most likely to damage yourself and the relay.
 
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I do not advise trying to get your relay out using a hammer.. You'll do yourself or the relay serious harm!
Use a more sophisticated method. Press the thing out.
Us a hydrolic jack placed on a 1/2" thick or similar, steel plate with heavy chain around the crossmember, like a swing. Then load or press the relay out gently and slowly. If you try getting your relay out with a hammer your most likely to damage yourself and the relay.



That's one of the jobs I am looking forward to when [if :rolleyes: ] I get round to refurbing my S1. Since the chassis is going into the skip, I plan to remove the offending parts of the front crossmember with a large Angle-grinder, and Hay Presto! the relay will simply glide onto the workshop floor :D .
 
the bolts i used were around 40 mil but i had a few longer , a few shorter a few m6's.
go to a hardware store and see what they have , try and get a good mix in length but the most common Ive used is 40-50 mil , remember that 2 long isn't a problem as you can cut them to suit but to short and the whole job can come to a standstill.

you really are asking an impossible question to answer , unless we can see the vehicle we cant really say what parts you will need, we can only suggest parts you might need.
for instance , on my 90 the bolts that hold on the steering box turned to mush when i tried to reapply them. your bolts may be fine.
 
I dont advise buying a job lot of bolts to do the job either..
When you remove your bolts by unbolting, cutting, burning off, whatever, keep some bolts for a pattern. Then go to a fasteners that specialise in bolts. Hardwear shops, generally speaking do not stock the correct spec bolts for the job. High tensile, plain shank / thread aspects are rarely available and overal, will leave the finished job looking rather poor round the edges. Flat washers to big or small, ground off threads and the odd coach bolt used here and there all add to that 'Bob the bodger' appearence. Buy the correct bolts for the job, once you know what is wanted..
As for going Metric... Personally I feel the Metric system has been imposed on us without so much as a discusion or a vote.. Its as if a language has been replaced. I went to buy the usual UNF bolts and found that they only had a few bits of old stock left, and they were not being replaced. Bloody metric was all they had.
I looked frantically and found that 'Screw Fix' stock many Imperial systems, Witworth, UNF, UNC, BSF, etc and many in stainless steel too.
So if you want to preserve part of Britains great industrial history, along with the Land Rover that was built using that system, keep demanding those sizes because very soon Metric is all you'll be able to get and a way of communication will be lost.
Im sure many of you don't care to much for it anyway and cant wait for the time we're all using the Euro and part of the United States of Europe.
Ironic that Britain had the largest Empire the world has ever seen and literally made the modern world that we know and live in today!!!!
As for the chassis swap, forget it and buy a more reliable itchywotsit.
 
Stainless sounds good but if you use it in contact with aluminium it will tend to make the ally corrode faster than mild steel will unless you have a plastic washer in between to electrically isolate it. It will aslo make mild steel corrode faster too where it contacts it. Galvanic effect. I don' t know how serious it actually is in practice as I didn't use it. Biggest problem is areas that are damp and have road salt about them.
 
In aircraft construction they use a yellow paste when putting SS against A.ally. Maybe it would wash off underneath. Best to get some new engine gearbox mounts (same) as they are cheap here. Check the feet at the bulkhead outriggers where the big bolt goes through. Repair sections can be got here if needed. When a chasss goes these are gone too unless already renewed.
Alex
 
Hey you lot what all this talk about metric nuts and bolts:eek:

Dont you wanna keep to the old AF nuts and bolts, so you can keep usin gthose anciant old tools you inherited from your grandfathers and mad great uncles:D :D :D :D :D
 
AF refers to Across Flats, and can be either metric or imperial.
UNF are the bolts commonly used on Land rover with Witworth and BSF used to a lesser extent.
 
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