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Clutch slipping

toppa

toppa

Posting Guru
Well you remember the fiasco i went through with my new engine???

Well when Dave and I dropped the truck off, i asked for a new clutch plate to be put in while then engine was out, when i picked it up, engine back in i was informed that the clutch wasn't changed because it was only about 50% worn,,, well Dorris
gets home tonight says take the truck for a spin it sounds a bit revy, i think what the hell, so i go for a spin and there is abrley enough grip left on the clutch to accelerate!!!!!!! Checked the resivoir, full, i changed the slave just befor xmas as i did the master ahwil ago, so it has been recently bled and has new fluid!!!! So unless the rod in the peddle box has some how managed to adjust itself so as not to let the clutch disengage, (very very very very unlikely as it would need to counter the pressure to do this) my clutch has according to the engine place, managed to wear away the remaining 50% in slightly over 1000kms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NOT A HAPPY BUNNY!!

Any suggestions on come back to the workshop? I have previously contacted watchdog, so may another call to them? Trading standards as the work i asked for wasn't carried out? Or is it my problem as i took the truck back???

Any and all advice appreciated, cause right now I'm fuming and would dearly love to..... (add you imaginative responce here)

(I have changed clutches before, but i had a workshop, I dont want to do it in the driveway)


Cheers
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Luke if you decide to do it your self IL lend a hand fella , those gear box's can be quite heavy and to be honest i need to get off my drive and onto someone Else's for a change of scenery.
its all pretty straight forward stuff though changing a clutch and weather permitting can be done in a few hours.
 
Sorry to hear that Luke. I don't think you'll have any come back to the garage that did the engine work unfortunately.






Mike
 
nobber said:
Luke if you decide to do it your self IL lend a hand fella , those gear box's can be quite heavy and to be honest i need to get off my drive and onto someone Else's for a change of scenery.
its all pretty straight forward stuff though changing a clutch and weather permitting can be done in a few hours.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that, much appreciated, wouldn't even attempt it by myself with the weight of the gearbox.. will go online and price up parts... and may take you up on that kind offer...

Cheers
 
Is the clutch on a disco 200 and a defender 200 the same??? I have the lt77 box...

Is craddocks a goos place to get the plate?


Cheers
 
Paul Humphreys said:
Make sure you get a new clutch fork as well. Just dont get the cheepest plate.

Paul
Click to expand...

Was looking at the complete clutch kit on the craddocks web page, but it dosnt say what it contains,,,

I assume release bearing (i have a new one in shed anyway) clutch plate....

Wouldn't try to save here, I'm going to have to do it myself and only want to do it once..

CHeers
 
hehe... i got a clutch problem as well...just mine doesn't work hehe, only brought the 306 on the 4th and on saturday the clutch went, thought it was a clutch cable but sadly wasn't, drove it home 30/40 miles with no clutch (and up the motorway) hmm...phoned the bloke who i brought it off (garage) and he said he'd pay, i'd only done 200 miles...
 
Paul Humphreys said:
The kit dose not come with the fork. You want to get it as well.

But I hate to ask, but could it be oil on the clutch plate?

Paul
Click to expand...

Could be, but i there has been no dripping or puddles underneathe the truck, the gearbox was brand new out of a land rover crate four years ago, so i assume its seals are good, and in all good theory the engine seals are new..

But i would expect to see oil drippping out the wadding plug hole? There is no wading plug init..
I will get underneath tomorrow with me torch and peek through the hole...


No burning smell either, ofoil or clutch plate...

Cheers
 
Thats good, as no oil dripping, but worth a look. I think from memory its about £110 for the kit (well it was for my old disco). It will be worth getting a engine hoist or transmission jack hired for the weekend when you do it. Also some dowel/bolts with the heads cut off to line the gear box lined up again.

You need the little things as well, like prop shaft bolts/nuts, floor screws (if they are old).

Paul
 
Paul Humphreys said:
Thats good, as no oil dripping, but worth a look. I think from memory its about £110 for the kit (well it was for my old disco). It will be worth getting a engine hoist or transmission jack hired for the weekend when you do it. Also some dowel/bolts with the heads cut off to line the gear box lined up again.

You need the little things as well, like prop shaft bolts/nuts, floor screws (if they are old).

Paul
Click to expand...

I'll order the clutch parts tomorrow, on eof our vans has a 500kg crane the swings out the back with and extendable arm on it, used for lowring our cmaera's, me thinks that would be perfect as i could slide it through the open door, hook up and lower, well in good theory...

Cheers
 
My biggest issue, is that wherever i park here, someone is bound to park next to me and stuff the deal up :(

But i cant afford to have it done in a workshop at the moment, and kinda need the truck as it is my transport, well i have the work van but dont drive that except for work...

Cheers
 
I'll move it into one of the more desirable parks tomorrow, then start stripping the drive shafts out, perfect time to replace my worn rear uj's :D

Is there anything i need to know when removing the pto unit?

Will make the box lighter and save me dropping the drive shafts from that...

and of course i will have no handbrake, so will need to be one of the leval parks..

CHeers
 
Not sure as mine is a hydrlic pump. I would leave the PTO on and split the two boxes, removing the winch prop. Either that or just slide the boxes back far enough to get the clutch in and out. I did it this way on a S3 LR.

I am sure Dave will along to tell you the best way.;)

Paul
 
Disco and Defender clutch aren't the same

Disco clutch kit STC8358, Defender clutch kit STC8359 :D I bet there isn't a lot of difference between them.

The clutch kit includes the pressure plate and cover plate, but not the release bearing. Before ordering from anyone, make sure they are giving you Borg and Beck, and a genuine LR release bearing. You should be able to get the B&B clutch kit from a decent motor factor locally.
 
One thing that might interest you, when I retrofitted my 200TDi, we did the clutch. About 6 months later, my clutch peddle went a bit funny, turns out the release arm had bent! Took it to my local LR enthusiast place, and apparently that's a well known fault. They fixed it, and they also add a welded plate along the release arm to secure it. They do that to all of the clutches they do apparently. Might be worth doing to yours if you can so you don't have to take the damn thing apart again if that happens.
 
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