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How Do I? defender 90 timing


Accelerating Away
My mate has a 90 with a 2.5 petrol engine (on a D plate)

we changed the distributor for a new (yes brand new) and now we cant get it running right.. it just wont fire on all 4.

i know the order is 1,3,4,2 and the rotar turns anti clock wise but it dont matter were we place the ht leads it just wont run correctley.

its had
new distributar complete with cap,points
new coil
ht leads

now when we fitted the parts on saturday it ran like a race horse, but 2 hours later it ran like a right old dog, it sounds like its missing and it wont rev.

Anyone please help as i am thinking of having this 90 as a play thing when he gets rid of it in the next 4 weeks or so ( i can have it cheap, very cheap as he buying a near new one).

if you stand on the off side and look at the engine you see the dissi, now no1 is at the one o'clock position...is this right .. if any one has a petrol 90 can they help me out with this.
Also can any one help with the timing marks on the flywheel and what it shoud be set at..

And before any one askes why did you not check the timing before you took out the old one the answer is because it was broken and totaly burned out ..no joke.


Old distributor burned out? What do you mean? The wires had melted or something like that?

If it has points and started OK, it sounds like they are overheating and causing the condenser to fail.
Is it a ballasted coil without a ballast resistor fitted.?

the points burnt out on the last one (melted plastic) and it did it twice.

no resister in system.(as we can find )

The guy has had it for the last 7 years with no problems..

If the points plastic is melting, there is too much current. It is common when a 9v coil is fitted. The coil heats up and the points heel melts. The engine runs OK for a while, then misfires and finally stops.

well after changing the coil back its still the same, we replaced the plugs and all were black indicating that we have a rich petrol mix, so i turned the mixure screw in and back out 2 1/2 turnes, well it tryes to start ( ticks over roughtley for a couple of mins) then cuts out and if we retry to start it wont, but if we leave it for about 5 mins it tryes to start as before.
i know think we have a problem with the carb for reasons stated above. its a weber, now do we take it off and do a full clean (we checked the fuel and its clean , no water at all and having a electric fuel pump it pumps great). or just go and replace the small diafram (if we can get one).

Has any one had any proplems like we are having and if so what do you do.
The carb is about 4 years old.

The mixture screw only controls the idle mixture, the main jet controls the running mixture.

Have a look at the points and see if they are turning blue. If they are, they have overheated and the condenser has failed. When points work correctly, you should hear a small crack sound as the coil discharges, if you get a spark or flash, the condenser isn't doing it's job.

The Plastic heel melting is caused by overheating points, you definitely have an ignition problem.

Thanks for all your help, we got it started.
We left in the new distributar, replaced the points and condenser and it still would not fire correctley.
So what did i do to get it running... replaced the wires from the coil with new home made ones and replaced all the wire connectors to the carb etc . it must have been bad conectors as the old coil is ok.

All we need to do now is reset the carb and if anyone knows the co2 setting of a defender 90, 2.5 petrol on a d plate and would like to tell me then the jobs a good one.

Well thanks guys.

I found a copy of autodata and on it is all the setting we need.

all has been set to the "book" and boy it it run....l:D

And now the best part is from saturday it will be mine as he has just got himself a brand new defender td5 and he gave the 90 to me as long as i have all the spares. most of them are new

setting for anyone who may need them

Defender 90...2.5 petrol
co 1.5 +/- 1
timing 16deg at 2000 rpm
points .4 mm

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