We need to service our Land Rover.
Before you start make sure that you have enough room to do the job. Not easy I know. I work outside on mine.
Here I expect you to have at least a trolley jack and one pair of axle stands.
Please read the any articles on tools and u/j's before you start.
Print out the service sheet.
Note the mileage and date in the service sheet.
Road test. Listen/feel that the car feels right. Check all warning lights are working. Check all instruments are working and reading correctly. Check that low range engages also that the diff lock engages. Test the wipers and washers during the road test, that way you won't have water dripping on you when you're working underneath.
Return from the road test and park the Land Rover where you intend working on it.
Check any interior lights.
Get a helper. Ask your helper to sit in the drivers seat.
From the front....Check the side lights note any damage or condensation. If damage replace. If condensation. Remove light lens. Clean and dry. Put a little silicon grease on the back of the lens mount and refit. Check the headlights, dip and high beam. Check the indicators, check the repeater indicators.
Walk to the rear.
Have the side lights switched on. Check the indicators. Check the brake lights. Check the rear fog light. Check the reversing light. Switch off the tail lights and re-check the indicators and brake lights.
Go back to the front of the Land Rover. Lie underneath and ask your helper to rock the steering while you check for any play in ALL the steering joints. I prefer to have the engine running with a power steering model.
Jack up right front wheel. Place a stand under axle.
Get hold of the wheel at 6 and 12 O'clock and rock in and out.
Note any movement. If there is movement ask your helper to apply the brakes and you rock the wheel again. If there's no movement with the brakes applied the wheel[hub] bearing need adjusting.
Get hold of the wheel at 3 and 9 O'clock and rock the wheel. This will give a second opinion on the steering joints.
While the wheel is lifted up now is the time to grease the front prop shaft. At the same time check the u/j's for wear and movement. Any worn u/j will need replacing.
Also take two 9/16AF OE spanners with you and check the prop shaft bolts for security.
Check the gearbox oil level. Top up if necessary. 55 Torex for 380 gearbox level plug.
Jamming the mudflap between the tyre and the wheel arch gives a bit more room. Also you haven't spilt any engine oil yet.
Remove the axle stand,let the jack down and go to the left front wheel and repeat the process.
Again remove the axle stand and let the jack down.
Open the bonnet.
Drain the engine oil.
Change to oil filter. To help to keep the ammount of oil spilt onto the front axle, get a plastic bag. Put some newspapers inside the bag. Make a fist size impression in the newspaper. Slacken the oil filter, place the newspaper/bag under/around the oil filter and remove the oil filter.
Wipe the oil filter housing where the new oil filter will fit.
Wipe some clean engine oil onto the rubber ring on the oil filter and fit the filter. HAND tight as per the instructions on the oil filter or box.
Replace the sump plug.
Fill the engine with engine oil to the level on the dipstick.
Start the engine an let it run at tick over until the oil light goes out.
Check the oil level again and fill to the level mark. Check for engine oil leaks.
Remove the fuel filter. Again clean the face that the filter fits against. Again a little oil on the rubber ring and fit the fuel filter.
On Tdi engines start the engine and run it at a fastish speed. NOT FLAT OUT.
The engine will die. Simply restart and it will eventually purge the system.
Check the water level in the radiator or header tank. You could also check the SG of the antifreeze at the same time.
Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level.
Top up the washer bottle.
Clean the top of the power steering resevoir. Check the level. Top up as required.
Check all water hoses.
Check all auxiliary belts. Adjust if required.
Remove the air cleaner element. Clean or renew as necessary.
Check the security of the radiator.
Chock the rear wheels at the back and front of the wheel.
Loosen the front wheel nuts. Jack up the front axle and place on axle stands.
Remove one front wheel.
Remove the brake master cylinder top and put some kitchen towel around the filler neck.
Remove the brake pads.
Clean the calliper pistons then push them back into the calliper.
Chip off all the rusted bits on the outside of the brake disk. I also jam a file into the calliper and turn the disc to clean that edge up. MIND YOUR FINGERS.
Put a little copper grease on the EDGE if the pad (either new or the old ones if in good condition). Fit the pads. Fit the pins and split pins if fitted. Use NEW split pins every time.
Check the condition of the brake flexible hose and the brake pipes for damage. Replace if necessary.
Check the shock absorbers for security and leaks and the bushes are not worn.
Check the springs.
Repeat the process on the other front wheel.
Note. Please check the brake pads on BOTH wheels before going to the other side.
Put a little bit of copper grease on each wheel stud. Refit the front wheels and nip the wheel nuts up.
There's more than one way to refit the wheel. Big strong people will just lift them on!!! Other may like to lift them in place by sitting on the ground and usine their legs/knees to lift.
Aluminium wheels can sometimes be difficult to get onto the studs.
ME,
I set the hub with a wheel stud at the top. Both for steel and aluminium. I then roll the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. I then roll the wheel onto the toe of my left foot. With either a breaker bar or a tyre lever at the side of the wheel (not on my toe!), I lift the wheel onto the studs. Now get the locking wheel nut [especially with aluminium wheels this] and fit that to the top wheel stud. Easy peasy? Fit the other nut at the opposite to the first nut. With an aluminum wheel you might need to hold the wheel straight to the hub to get the wheel nut to go on.
Remove the axle stands and lower the front to the ground.
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels to the front wheels.
Jack the rear axle up and place on stands.
6 and 12 O'clock again and test for any movement. Spin the wheel and listen for any rumbles.
Drop the axle to the ground and loosen the wheel nuts.
Jack the axle back up and place on axle stands.
Remove the wheels. Check and clean the brakes. Check the pads linings for wear. Renew if necessary. Bear in mid what I said about the front pads. Do the same at the rear if calliper fitted.
Brake drums. It's a very long time since I worked on a vehicle with drum brakes.....
Back the adjustment right off. Remove the securing screw. Hit the brake drum on the face that the wheel sits on with a soft faced hammer, the drum should fly off. Clean out the brake dust using a brake cleaner solution.
Grease the rear prop shaft.
Grease the A frame ball joint (if fitted.)
Check the propshaft u/j's as per the front prop advice.
Check the propshaft bolts for security.
Adjust the handbrake.
Check the transfer box oil level. Top up if necessary.
Check the overdrive oil level if a overdrive fitted.
Check the flexable and metal brake pipes as per the front axle instructions.
Check the rear diff oil level.
Check the rear shock absorbers for security and leaks.
Check the rear springs.
Refit the wheels and nip up the wheel nuts.
Adjust drum brakes.
Drop the rear of the vehicle to the ground.
Re-fit the brake master cylinder top, topping the brake fluid up with new fluid if necessary.
Torque up ALL wheel nuts to correct torque.
Check and adjust tyre pressures.
Check tyre tread depth.
Remove all axle rubber end caps if fitted, clean the end cap. Clean the axle where the rubber cap fits. Put a drop of EP90 into the rubber cap and fit to each axle end.
Oil each door hinge.
Oil each door stay.
Oil each door lock.
Oil the bonnet catch.
Fold upside steps. Oil each side at the hinge. If seized use a spanner on the bolt head to free off.
Shut the bonnet and road test.
Get a piece of kitchen towel and walk round the Land Rover wiping ALL the excess oil from the door hinges and locks and also any dirty oily hand marks from the bodywork and the steering wheel.
All you need now is a sticker of some kind to tell you when your pride and joy needs it's next service. I've started to put a piece of paper in the top of the tax disc holder where the breakdown card should go to give me that information.
_________________
Before you start make sure that you have enough room to do the job. Not easy I know. I work outside on mine.
Here I expect you to have at least a trolley jack and one pair of axle stands.
Please read the any articles on tools and u/j's before you start.
Print out the service sheet.
Note the mileage and date in the service sheet.
Road test. Listen/feel that the car feels right. Check all warning lights are working. Check all instruments are working and reading correctly. Check that low range engages also that the diff lock engages. Test the wipers and washers during the road test, that way you won't have water dripping on you when you're working underneath.
Return from the road test and park the Land Rover where you intend working on it.
Check any interior lights.
Get a helper. Ask your helper to sit in the drivers seat.
From the front....Check the side lights note any damage or condensation. If damage replace. If condensation. Remove light lens. Clean and dry. Put a little silicon grease on the back of the lens mount and refit. Check the headlights, dip and high beam. Check the indicators, check the repeater indicators.
Walk to the rear.
Have the side lights switched on. Check the indicators. Check the brake lights. Check the rear fog light. Check the reversing light
Go back to the front of the Land Rover. Lie underneath and ask your helper to rock the steering while you check for any play in ALL the steering joints. I prefer to have the engine running with a power steering model.
Jack up right front wheel. Place a stand under axle.
Get hold of the wheel at 6 and 12 O'clock and rock in and out.
Note any movement. If there is movement ask your helper to apply the brakes and you rock the wheel again. If there's no movement with the brakes applied the wheel[hub] bearing need adjusting.
Get hold of the wheel at 3 and 9 O'clock and rock the wheel. This will give a second opinion on the steering joints.
While the wheel is lifted up now is the time to grease the front prop shaft. At the same time check the u/j's for wear and movement. Any worn u/j will need replacing.
Also take two 9/16AF OE spanners with you and check the prop shaft bolts for security.
Check the gearbox oil level. Top up if necessary. 55 Torex for 380 gearbox level plug.
Jamming the mudflap between the tyre and the wheel arch gives a bit more room. Also you haven't spilt any engine oil yet.
Remove the axle stand,let the jack down and go to the left front wheel and repeat the process.
Again remove the axle stand and let the jack down.
Open the bonnet.
Drain the engine oil.
Change to oil filter. To help to keep the ammount of oil spilt onto the front axle, get a plastic bag. Put some newspapers inside the bag. Make a fist size impression in the newspaper. Slacken the oil filter, place the newspaper/bag under/around the oil filter and remove the oil filter.
Wipe the oil filter housing where the new oil filter will fit.
Wipe some clean engine oil onto the rubber ring on the oil filter and fit the filter. HAND tight as per the instructions on the oil filter or box.
Replace the sump plug.
Fill the engine with engine oil to the level on the dipstick.
Start the engine an let it run at tick over until the oil light goes out.
Check the oil level again and fill to the level mark. Check for engine oil leaks.
Remove the fuel filter. Again clean the face that the filter fits against. Again a little oil on the rubber ring and fit the fuel filter.
On Tdi engines start the engine and run it at a fastish speed. NOT FLAT OUT.
The engine will die. Simply restart and it will eventually purge the system.
Check the water level in the radiator or header tank. You could also check the SG of the antifreeze at the same time.
Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level.
Top up the washer bottle.
Clean the top of the power steering resevoir. Check the level. Top up as required.
Check all water hoses.
Check all auxiliary belts. Adjust if required.
Remove the air cleaner element. Clean or renew as necessary.
Check the security of the radiator.
Chock the rear wheels at the back and front of the wheel.
Loosen the front wheel nuts. Jack up the front axle and place on axle stands.
Remove one front wheel.
Remove the brake master cylinder top and put some kitchen towel around the filler neck.
Remove the brake pads.
Clean the calliper pistons then push them back into the calliper.
Chip off all the rusted bits on the outside of the brake disk. I also jam a file into the calliper and turn the disc to clean that edge up. MIND YOUR FINGERS.
Put a little copper grease on the EDGE if the pad (either new or the old ones if in good condition). Fit the pads. Fit the pins and split pins if fitted. Use NEW split pins every time.
Check the condition of the brake flexible hose and the brake pipes for damage. Replace if necessary.
Check the shock absorbers for security and leaks and the bushes are not worn.
Check the springs.
Repeat the process on the other front wheel.
Note. Please check the brake pads on BOTH wheels before going to the other side.
Put a little bit of copper grease on each wheel stud. Refit the front wheels and nip the wheel nuts up.
There's more than one way to refit the wheel. Big strong people will just lift them on!!! Other may like to lift them in place by sitting on the ground and usine their legs/knees to lift.
Aluminium wheels can sometimes be difficult to get onto the studs.
ME,
I set the hub with a wheel stud at the top. Both for steel and aluminium. I then roll the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. I then roll the wheel onto the toe of my left foot. With either a breaker bar or a tyre lever at the side of the wheel (not on my toe!), I lift the wheel onto the studs. Now get the locking wheel nut [especially with aluminium wheels this] and fit that to the top wheel stud. Easy peasy? Fit the other nut at the opposite to the first nut. With an aluminum wheel you might need to hold the wheel straight to the hub to get the wheel nut to go on.
Remove the axle stands and lower the front to the ground.
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels to the front wheels.
Jack the rear axle up and place on stands.
6 and 12 O'clock again and test for any movement. Spin the wheel and listen for any rumbles.
Drop the axle to the ground and loosen the wheel nuts.
Jack the axle back up and place on axle stands.
Remove the wheels. Check and clean the brakes. Check the pads linings for wear. Renew if necessary. Bear in mid what I said about the front pads. Do the same at the rear if calliper fitted.
Brake drums. It's a very long time since I worked on a vehicle with drum brakes.....
Back the adjustment right off. Remove the securing screw. Hit the brake drum on the face that the wheel sits on with a soft faced hammer, the drum should fly off. Clean out the brake dust using a brake cleaner solution.
Grease the rear prop shaft.
Grease the A frame ball joint (if fitted.)
Check the propshaft u/j's as per the front prop advice.
Check the propshaft bolts for security.
Adjust the handbrake.
Check the transfer box oil level. Top up if necessary.
Check the overdrive oil level if a overdrive fitted.
Check the flexable and metal brake pipes as per the front axle instructions.
Check the rear diff oil level.
Check the rear shock absorbers for security and leaks.
Check the rear springs.
Refit the wheels and nip up the wheel nuts.
Adjust drum brakes.
Drop the rear of the vehicle to the ground.
Re-fit the brake master cylinder top, topping the brake fluid up with new fluid if necessary.
Torque up ALL wheel nuts to correct torque.
Check and adjust tyre pressures.
Check tyre tread depth.
Remove all axle rubber end caps if fitted, clean the end cap. Clean the axle where the rubber cap fits. Put a drop of EP90 into the rubber cap and fit to each axle end.
Oil each door hinge.
Oil each door stay.
Oil each door lock.
Oil the bonnet catch.
Fold upside steps. Oil each side at the hinge. If seized use a spanner on the bolt head to free off.
Shut the bonnet and road test.
Get a piece of kitchen towel and walk round the Land Rover wiping ALL the excess oil from the door hinges and locks and also any dirty oily hand marks from the bodywork and the steering wheel.
All you need now is a sticker of some kind to tell you when your pride and joy needs it's next service. I've started to put a piece of paper in the top of the tax disc holder where the breakdown card should go to give me that information.
_________________
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