I'm only going to deal with the two most popular diffs here.
The Rover type.
The Salisbury found on the rear of the 110.
Removeing the prop.
Not an difficult job,just fiddly.You can use the special tool from Difflock or as I do some ordinary spanners.
The bolts SHOULD be fitted into the pinion from the back.Don't worry if they aren't.
Should you forget the bolts and you fit them from the propshaft PLEASE check that they clear the diff housing.
There's a reason fot this which dates back to the series one.In those days BSF bolts were used.On the back of the pionon flange was and still is a machined ring.That ring was to hold the bolt head in place while you undid the nut.Now that UNF bolts are used the head of the bolt no longer is held by that flange.
So.
Undo the nuts that you can get at with a long ring spanner.
Starting with the nut that the angle of the shaft allows you to get a spanner on.That nut is generally at the bottom of the prop at the diff end.I use two combination spanners.the open ended end to hold the bolt head and eithe the ring end or the open end as suits you.
When you have this nut off turn the prop so that another nut is easy to get at!!
Prop off
Rover diff.......
Undo the nut.
Remove the diff flange.
Remove the oil seal your favourite way.
Fit a new oil seal.
Check that the diff flange hasn't been damaged by any previously fitted oil seal,if damaged renew.
Run a smear of oil either onto the oil seal lip or on the diff flange where the oil seal fits.
Fit the diff flange.
Refit the nut and tighten to the correct torque as per the book.85lbf ft.
Salisbury Diff.
The Salisbury Diff has a measured spacer between the diff pinion bearings to achive the correct bearing pre-load.Any removal of the diff pinion nut upsets that pre-load.You are supposed to use a special collapsable spacer then measure that spacer every time you remove the pinion nut.
This way helps you to change the diff pinion seal without the resort to those special tools.
Remove the prop shaft.
Take either a center pop or a small drill and mark the pinion shaft near the outside of the shaft by the nut.Mark the nut so that BOTH the marks line up.
Remove the pinion nut,counting the turns as you do so.
Change the oil seal as the above information.
Refit the nut counting the number of turns until the two pop marks line up.
Refit everything.
Check the breather pipe tho see that it is clear.
Check the level of the diff oil.
The level should be JUST BELOW the threads of the level plug.
Get out bit.....
I've given yuo this information to help youto keep your pride and joy in good condition,to the beat of my ability.
It is you that are doing the job.DO IT RIGHT!!It's your fault if you ****** the job up........
The Rover type.
The Salisbury found on the rear of the 110.
Removeing the prop.
Not an difficult job,just fiddly.You can use the special tool from Difflock or as I do some ordinary spanners.
The bolts SHOULD be fitted into the pinion from the back.Don't worry if they aren't.
Should you forget the bolts and you fit them from the propshaft PLEASE check that they clear the diff housing.
There's a reason fot this which dates back to the series one.In those days BSF bolts were used.On the back of the pionon flange was and still is a machined ring.That ring was to hold the bolt head in place while you undid the nut.Now that UNF bolts are used the head of the bolt no longer is held by that flange.
So.
Undo the nuts that you can get at with a long ring spanner.
Starting with the nut that the angle of the shaft allows you to get a spanner on.That nut is generally at the bottom of the prop at the diff end.I use two combination spanners.the open ended end to hold the bolt head and eithe the ring end or the open end as suits you.
When you have this nut off turn the prop so that another nut is easy to get at!!
Prop off
Rover diff.......
Undo the nut.
Remove the diff flange.
Remove the oil seal your favourite way.
Fit a new oil seal.
Check that the diff flange hasn't been damaged by any previously fitted oil seal,if damaged renew.
Run a smear of oil either onto the oil seal lip or on the diff flange where the oil seal fits.
Fit the diff flange.
Refit the nut and tighten to the correct torque as per the book.85lbf ft.
Salisbury Diff.
The Salisbury Diff has a measured spacer between the diff pinion bearings to achive the correct bearing pre-load.Any removal of the diff pinion nut upsets that pre-load.You are supposed to use a special collapsable spacer then measure that spacer every time you remove the pinion nut.
This way helps you to change the diff pinion seal without the resort to those special tools.
Remove the prop shaft.
Take either a center pop or a small drill and mark the pinion shaft near the outside of the shaft by the nut.Mark the nut so that BOTH the marks line up.
Remove the pinion nut,counting the turns as you do so.
Change the oil seal as the above information.
Refit the nut counting the number of turns until the two pop marks line up.
Refit everything.
Check the breather pipe tho see that it is clear.
Check the level of the diff oil.
The level should be JUST BELOW the threads of the level plug.
Get out bit.....
I've given yuo this information to help youto keep your pride and joy in good condition,to the beat of my ability.
It is you that are doing the job.DO IT RIGHT!!It's your fault if you ****** the job up........
