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Documentation of CAV injection pump

Martial

In Second Gear
I have a problem with the injection pump of my Land 90.
The responsibilities broke themselves on the command and I don't know how they were.

Apparently it is a CAV pump.

If you had the documentation for this pump in pdf. It could help me.


Thank you beforehand


A French hobbyist of Land Rover 90
 
The responsibilities broke themselves on the command and I don't know how they were.
I think we have a translation problem, Martial. What has actually happened?

It is DP type pump, does it have an electric engine stop? If it does, it's a DPS fitted to a 2.5, if it doesn't it's a DPA fitted to a 2.25 engine.

Give us any information and we will help you.

Chris
 
I am distressed for my English. I use a software of translation.

I have a Land Rover 90 TD of 1988.

After an alteration of filter to Diesel oil, impossible to restart. I purged the pump of course.

While looking at the injection pump, I noticed that it fled a lot. But that two spring were broken.

They are placed under the triangle of command of gas. The biggest on the axis of command intact statement.
These are the two others that are broken. I don't know where they are connected.

I hope that you will understand me.

Thank you

Martial
 
I am distressed for my English. I use a software of translation.

I have a Land Rover 90 TD of 1988.

After an alteration of filter to Diesel oil, impossible to restart. I purged the pump of course.

While looking at the injection pump, I noticed that there is a leak of Diesel on the injection pump. I can't see from because it was under the triangle of command of gas. But that two spring were broken under the triangle of command of gas.

The biggest on the axis of command intact statement.
These are the two others that are broken. I don't know where they are connected.
the two broken spring explain the leak ?

I hope that you will understand me.

Thank you

Martial
 
What are you using to convert to English, it sounds like a cross between. Hello Hello and Monty Python :D










Not much help I know. Have you tried Google
 
Leak under the triangle of gas would seem to me to be the throttle shaft where it passes down in from the top of the pump. If this is the case, then you may well have a bit of a problem starting, but the fuel isn't pressurised for the injectors at that point. Your problem with starting is most likely going to be related to you changing the diesel filter. These engines can be difficult to start after the fuel system has been worked on, and continually trying to start the engine with the ignition key can flatten the battery and possibly damage the starter motor.
I would suggest you get someone to tow-start your 90. This usually works.
 
As Les says, it's the throttle control shaft seal and return springs you need. The pump is a DPS, so Bernie could probably come up with the part numbers.

Chris
 
Here is mine. I also need a part number for a replacement pump please.
 

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As Les says, it's the throttle control shaft seal and return springs you need. The pump is a DPS, so Bernie could probably come up with the part numbers.

Chris
Sorry folks, completely missed this thread until I followed Alice in just now ... :D

Chris I'm not 100% sure what bits you are referring to.

In the attached pic, no.18 is the throttle return spring part no. RTC5891.
No.17 - sleeve - part no. ETC4752.

Are they the ones you mean?
 
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Thanks again. I don't suppose you know if the pump comes with the vent nut already glued on.
Your diagram doesn't show a part number for the washer, nut & bolt.
I will assume that all other attached parts like the throttle linkage, seals etc won't be included.
I'd hate to order a new one & find we still have to weld a nut onto the top cover of the DPS.
 
I'm pretty sure the bleed screw isn't available as a separate part, it comes with the pump. When I sheared mine :eek: I thought I was going to need a whole new pump but Big Sandy actually had a spare one knocking about! :D
 
We've still got ours too (pics in other thread) alas 648 loctite didn't keep the nut fixed to the copper washer & the worn thread on the bolt means it leaks fuel through the flattened side of the bolt.
It's a bit embarressing keep coming home on the back of a truck & although picnics on the M25 are pleasent the toilet facilities are filled with potential risk. (man from highways agency might vouch for that!) erm.. too much info :(
 
:)

Same screw used on the earlier series pumps as well..coupled with a copper washer. I was discussing pumps, and Lucas CAV earlier.. If you have a lucas agent locally, you could take the pump you have to them, and have it reconditioned. Its about £200 though...Might be worth ringing a Lucas agent to see if you can get a new screw though..that might be all the difference.

Martial, if you can get the replacement parts you need for your pump, as Les says a tow start is a good option. The resulting speed from towing purges the system quicker and easier.

Martial, si vous pouvez obtenir les pièces de rechange que vous avez besoin pour votre pompe, en tant que 'LES' dit que un début de remorquage est une bonne option. La vitesse résultante du remorquage purge le système plus rapide et plus facile.

(grammaire désolé et probablement mauvais, j'emploie le "babelfish" de l'altavista)
 
I could ring them & ask if they have a spare screw I can buy :D
although it's what I'd call a bolt. Would still have the same problem with fixing to DPS lid but one could always hope that so long as no fuel spills thus disolving the adhesive it might just work.

Going to the trouble of removing the pump complete is not a job we'd be competant at. We've the urge to undo the lid so a new bolt & nut could be baked in place via the oven but don't know what will break or drop inside the main body of the pump in the process.

Instead of faffing about still wondering how long the bodge will last it seems logical to buy new & keep our eyes open for a running 90 to buy for when the next thing breaks.
 
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