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Engines ?


Extreme Landy Fan
Whats the score with the P38's engines what's best what are their faults ?

I've seen a 4.6HSE's with alleged blown head gaskets, what is the failing point on them are they worth looking at as a cheap buy and do an engine swap/rebuild ? or are the parts so expensive that it's not worthwhile.
I'm not concerned about getting my hands dirty so labour cost will be nil
I was quoted £1500 for a new land rover block but i got top hat liners fitted to my own block for £600, no contest really just took a bit longer to do the job because of waiting for the machining.

where did you get this work done? how ling did you have to wate? did you refit the engine yourslef?

The work on the block was done locally, i didn`t do any of the work myself, i am capable but i didn`t have the time or place to work on it. I have got to know some lads at a garage in Wolverhampton that do a lot of work on these range rovers and they did all the work for me and sent the block to an engine center for the top hats to be fitted. I supplied a new piper fast road cam and followers, and also new duplex timing chain and gears. They supplied new bearings,gaskets and labour, the whole lot cost me £2600, runs nice now and they gave me 12 months guarantee as well. It took them 2 weeks altogether.
I was loosing water not too much about a pint every 2 weeks, but when i took no 4 spark plug out it was rusty and with no leaks anywhere else it seemed reasonable to assume that it was going into that cylinder. The work was done at hingley autos, ettingshall road, wolverhampton, the block was done at the engine center, moxley. The lads at Hingleys were great and they did knock some off the price. The engine center however was a diffrent story, they didn`t push 3 of the top hat liners down properly and 3 weeks after having the car back they dropped. Hingleys obviously rebuilt the engine again but the engine center didn`t like having to do their part for nothing and started taking their time fitting the new liners, but after a few threats they did it. As for the engine it`s great its been in 7 months now with no problems.
Thanks for the prompt reply. The symtoms I have are RR losing water. It has been happening for 18 months but we were trying to search for a leak. Repeated little leaks were discovered but water loss continued. Just recently engine boiled twice with Temp Gauge going to red! Top hose had expanded and was fat looking. Bottom of radiotor was cold? Then experienced starter motor problems. Wouldn't turn engine and sounded like a solenoid stuck. Local garage replaced starter but it has not cured problem, which is only occasional. They said the ring gear has been damaged too? A lot of white smoke came out of exhaust when it fired after starter problem. Garage has proposed a re-lined block at around £4000. Any more help would be greatly appreciated. Also has anybody been able to get anything out of Land Rover as it is my first experience in thirty plus years of a major engine fault after 85000 miles? It dosen't appear right that they should build a car to only last such a low mileage. The RR runs on LPG.
The only people i have heard of getting anything out of land rover are the ones who had the land rover warranties unfortunately. My car had a full service history and only 71000 miles on it when i bought it so i thought it would be fine. I still had to pay for the engine, land rover arn`t interested.
Unfortunately it does sound like your engine has an internal leak, is the garage certain it`s not the head gaskets?. I had the 2 heads rebuilt 2 months before which ruled out my head gaskets. Your radiator could be one of 2 things, either it`s blocked which can cause it to pressurise and overheat, or there is an airlock possibly connected to the loss of coolant, which will again cause overheating etc, the only way to check it is to remove it and test it.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Hi Mark, Just to continue the saga. We have had the radiator replaced together with a new thermostat. Touch wood, it has not since overheated. However, the top-hose after a long run is often bloated and it does use water (around a pint every two hundred miles). Garage who did radiator replacement performed a block check which they said it passed. The funny which happened on starting seems to have gone away. Two questions, do you think we still have a porous block and how long do you think we can run the vehicle before some real damage occurs? Regards,
Try taking the plugs out first thing in the morning when the car has stood for a few hours, and see if any are rusty, this will indicate if water is entering that cylinder. Usually there is a missfire too when starting from cold due to water in the cylinder. As for how long will it last who knows it could last 12 months or 12 hours.
Good luck
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