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Fuse box

Does anyone out there have any pix of their Defender Fuse box and/or a diagram, with an indication of amps for each fuse?

The brake lights on my Santana S3 are not working, and I have checked all the fuses and it doesn't seem to be that. The fuse box is not remotely like the S3 ones so I wondered if it might be similar to a Defender one. I've seen a TD5 box which did look similar, but I can't remember the detail.

It seemed a good idea at the time to see what each fuse was for (no indication on the box) so spent a pleasant couple of hours in the sun painstakingly going through each fuse and trying to work them out.

There are 14 fuses, in the following layout: top - 3:2:1:1 bottom - 4:3
(sounds like a football match....)
They range from 10-25 amps. The 25 is the horn, and the heater fan is 20. Actually there was a 30A fuse for the left rear side light but as the others are 15 I have put in a much smaller one, for now.

If anyone can shed any light on this I'll be a happy woman. Cheers. :) If not, off to the autoelectrician.:( Kate
 
I have no idea how to post pictures on here yet :D

However on my Defender the bottom row of fuses four fuses from the right. No 17 fuse. 15 amp. Is for the brake lights,reverse light,EGR ECU and EGR regulator.

HTH
 
This is the set-up on mine - 1988 TD 110, don't know if that's any use? :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does anyone out there have any pix of their Defender Fuse box and/or a diagram, with an indication of amps for each fuse?

The brake lights on my Santana S3 are not working, and I have checked all the fuses and it doesn't seem to be that. The fuse box is not remotely like the S3 ones so I wondered if it might be similar to a Defender one. I've seen a TD5 box which did look similar, but I can't remember the detail.

It seemed a good idea at the time to see what each fuse was for (no indication on the box) so spent a pleasant couple of hours in the sun painstakingly going through each fuse and trying to work them out.

There are 14 fuses, in the following layout: top - 3:2:1:1 bottom - 4:3
(sounds like a football match....)
They range from 10-25 amps. The 25 is the horn, and the heater fan is 20. Actually there was a 30A fuse for the left rear side light but as the others are 15 I have put in a much smaller one, for now.

If anyone can shed any light on this I'll be a happy woman. Cheers. :) If not, off to the autoelectrician.:( Kate


Kate

Follow http://www.landrover.com/gb/en/Owne...rover_Owners_Overview@__link__InfoBlockLink_3
and click on take me to owners information website (at the bottom).

From there you can select vehicle etc, etc.

This might help.

Dave
 
Right please find attached some copies from the handbooks, for fuses for Td5 and Tdi vehicles (Defender)


Please note these are for RHD vehicles, so you have been warned
 

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  • Defender 1996 Tdi#1.jpg
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Thanks everyone for the input. Not remotely the same but helpful anyway, believe it or not. Had a break from electrics today and went out on the bike, but will be back on it tomorrow. (The electrics, not the bike)

Couldn't get any sense out of the LR site (Dave78) but no matter, because your Tdi pix were useful - especially the indication of amps. Bernie's pix of a same age vehicle (ours is 1988), looks similarly basic, but totally different fuse ratings, and layout. Bizarre.

Anyway, thanks, again. Off to ponder the mysteries of Spanish fuseboxes and here is a pic of ours - I've seen yours so I'll show you mine..... and what we have identified so far. Kate
 
oops :rolleyes: - attachments here

diagrams in word format and plain text (for anyone like me who resolutely refuses to install word.....:D ) Kate
 

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Right :p Can we go back to square one please.

Have you checked with a test lamp that there is power to the brake light switch ??

If there is......

Have you checked with a test lamp that the switch is working ???
 
Cheers Mike

Just been out in the dusk to have a quick look at brake light switch. This is the one behind the servo that is very difficult to get any fingers into, small, long, whatever, yes? (or at least on our vehicle....)

We put the meter on it, and got 0.01/0.02. Will go out in the morning when we can see better and will test for continuity between cables. If we put a wire between the two connectors and the brake lights stay on, can we assume the switch is shot? Sorry if this sounds stupid, we have not had this problem before and have absolutely no idea about it.

Thanks for your response, we hadn't thought about this - for the above reasons. K&A
 
Kate.
Can you visit a scrap yard ??
Get yourself a small bulb holder with two wires on. I have three of these all from series instrument lights.
Fit a small crocodile clip to each wire.

I find this way of testing a lot easier then a meter, in fact at the Donington 4x4 show last year I was talking to a guy from an auto electrical firm, he told me he uses a test light before reaching for a meter.

Can you see what colour wires go to the switch ? If so take note for later problems. :D :D

HTH
 
Adrian made a test light this morning (raided our S3 - nothing in scrap yards round here, they keep them on the road too long) and we've decided this is the culprit. He's cycled into town complete with photo/page from catalogue/part no/chassis number but goodness knows if we will get anything:rolleyes:

Then we have to work out how to replace. I think he will be busy this weekend.:D :D


Kate
 

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