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How Do I? hopefully starting my engine today but,

nobber

nobber

Extreme Landy Fan
is there anything i should know? im lost when it comes to diesel engines.
do i need to prime the pump?
is there any way to start a stubborn diesel like you can with a petrol?
 
we used to stick a blow torch on the manifold so that the engine sucks in hot air......PROBABLY NOT A GOOD IDEA WITH A TURBO!!!:D

I think you've got a little pump on the side of the engine, it's got a little lever on it that you have to pump up and down... before you start pumping away you have to open the bleed nipple on the top of the fuel filter... when diesle come out tighten it back up and crank the engine...it should bleed the rest of the air out by itself. That's how it worked on mine, but i've never really looked at a TD...

well that might have been a bit of a waste of typing :D:D maybe wait for someone to come along with a TD :D
 
From Mr Haynes.....

"All models are fitted with a hand operated priming lever on the fuel lift pump.

To prime, loosen the fuel leak off pipe union bolt on the top of the fuel filter head.

Operate the priming lever until fuel free from air bubbles emerges from the union. Then retighten the union

Switch on the ignition, and continue priming until firm pressure is felt, then pump a few more times.

Attempt to start the engine in 10 second bursts with the accelorator fully depressed."

Disclaimer: If it breaks - its not my fault... :)

Dunno about the earth strap really - suspect it is on the gearbox to chassis.....
 
ken110 said:
:) so I was nearly right...sort of...i got the pump and the bleed nipple bit...and cranking the engine...sort of, eh?:D:D
Click to expand...


I just hope mr H is right :eek:

If theres a lot of air in the system, the venerable Mr H recommends loosening the bleed screw on the lift pump and pumping till fuel comes through then moving to the filter and repeating.

If air is likely to be in the injector pipes, then loosen the banjos at the injectors, wrap rags round them to prevent spillage, and crank on the starter.

Warning: be prepared to stop the engine if it fires! Or it will be messy and smelly. Don't let anyone near the engine if you do this one!
 
If you get it all bled nobber as Steve suggests you shouldn`t need Bradex or Easy Start. I presume it was running beforehand and you aint touched the timing.

On the subject of Easy Start etc. These should only be used in dire emergency. The solvent in them can dissolve the carbon ring at top of piston and cause issues. It`ll prolly start first time:D

Alex
 
If air is likely to be in the injector pipes, then loosen the banjos at the injectors, wrap rags round them to prevent spillage, and crank on the starter.

Wrong as they are the leak off pipes, to release air from the high pressure pipes, its crank it with the pipes(hex tube nuts) on the side slackened.

Easy start also breaks piston rings and burns valve seatings.

:)
 
CCKW353A1 said:
If air is likely to be in the injector pipes, then loosen the banjos at the injectors, wrap rags round them to prevent spillage, and crank on the starter.

Wrong as they are the leak off pipes, to release air from the high pressure pipes, its crank it with the pipes(hex tube nuts) on the side slackened.



:)
Click to expand...

He's right you know... glad you didn't get chance today then :)
 
Good luck with it Rob. Make sure you check all the fluid levels first, and make sure that any rag stuffed in the intake to prevent FOD is removed before starting - guess who forgot about that one;)! Make sure there is nothing in the vicinity of the fan or belt, too.

You can use the priming lever on the bottom of the lift pump, but it takes forever. I just crack the top banjo (return line) on the top of the filter to bleed that first, and then the fuel pump bleed screw until fuel emerges. I turn the engine over to do it, keeping an eye under the bonnet.

There should be an earth strap from the left side of the block to the chassis. I ran an earth from the timing casing to the battery (under the bonnet) to improve conductivity and reliability, so the normal earth strap just earths the body electrics to the engine now.
 
mine won't start with the throttle wide open easily. shut the throttle off and try if you have got problems.

every turbo'd diesel i've ever tried to start with the throttle wide open has struggled compared to when it's shut off. NA diesels start better with the throttle wide open.
 
I agree with Nick, dont bother with the hand pump, its a load of balls. You'll spend the rest of your life pumping. Charge the battery overnight and do it all with the starter.

Cheers, Ben
 
All you are doing with the starter is moving the lift pump lever. You can do that by hand and save burning the starter out.

I have always used the priming lever, nice slow strokes and you should bleed the system out in about 30 strokes.

Chris
 
thanks guys.
ive forgotten that i dont have an oil cooler in there yet so its going to be a few days before im ready to start it but i will read this through again to recap.
 
TEMPL4R said:
All you are doing with the starter is moving the lift pump lever. You can do that by hand and save burning the starter out.

I have always used the priming lever, nice slow strokes and you should bleed the system out in about 30 strokes.

Chris
Click to expand...

It takes me more than 30 strokes to bleed my system!! maybe mines bigger than yours :D:D



well it's a 110 after all;)
 
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