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I Fitted my Springs

reedrider

Overdrive!
Hi all I've just got to let you know I spent 10 hours yesterday fitting the parabolics and gas shocks to my SeriesIII
WOW what a difference its now so smooth to drive it drives in a stright line I have to slow down in the corners due to the suspension working and having body roll its totally transformed the beast
Its also lifted it about 4" all round

I got the front done in 3 hours then I hit the nightmare one o/s rear the shock spilt pin was siezed (knocked it out when the plate was out) and the rear schackle bolt was siezed (cut it away with grinder)
The rears were a pain in everwhere they had twists in them so had to phone a mate to come and give me a hand to twist them into place with a big bar and a hammer but its all worth it now

My whole body is wrecked from lifting pulling pushing hammering & doing up wheel nuts
 
Well done, a good days work.

You will get body roll, it's the lift. the new Dampers will slow it down a bit, but you need Anti roll bars for speed driving. But as you go Off road, it's just a matter of altering your driving a bit to adjust to the springs.

Chris
 
Is the 4" lift normal or is it that much difference because your previous springs had lost tension?
 
2" on the front and 3" on the rear is pretty normal when fitting parabolics. As long as you have gas dampers, you'll find the handling much more predicatble and compliant than before, even if it does roll more. I've never heard of antiroll bars for leaf sprung LRs, and I've never seen any suitable mounting points for them, though they are used on coil sprung models. You won't need them anyway - parabolics on a Series LR will only lean uncomfortably if you're going too fast for the corner anyway.
 
Hi Reedrider

Well done mate i am thinking of fitting a set to my swb 2a soon if it gets throught the mot ok, out of interest what make of springs and dampers did you use and if you dont mind what did you pay, as i cant decide what brand to got hrought

cheers clint
 
Hi Reedrider

Well done mate i am thinking of fitting a set to my swb 2a soon if it gets throught the mot ok, out of interest what make of springs and dampers did you use and if you dont mind what did you pay, as i cant decide what brand to got hrought

cheers clint
Get Rocky Mountain - they do a full fitting kit with the best dampers available. Their quality is among the highest, while being in the middle of the price range. They are undoubtedly the best value on the market.
 
Hi Reedrider

Well done mate i am thinking of fitting a set to my swb 2a soon if it gets throught the mot ok, out of interest what make of springs and dampers did you use and if you dont mind what did you pay, as i cant decide what brand to got hrought

cheers clint

I bought the springs with U bolts from Simmonites for £ 200.00
the Extended gas struts are pro comps and cost £26.00 each
Shackle bolts and split pins etc £20.00 just guessing got them so long ago
so the whole lot for £324.00 all in
I used 2 x 3 ton axle stands
2 ton trolley jack
large bars and hammers
4.5 inch angle grinder
Gas tourch
& 10 hours of hell

I would say take 2 days to do it and you'll need a hand to fit the new ones
 
2" on the front and 3" on the rear is pretty normal when fitting parabolics. As long as you have gas dampers, you'll find the handling much more predicatble and compliant than before, even if it does roll more. I've never heard of antiroll bars for leaf sprung LRs, and I've never seen any suitable mounting points for them, though they are used on coil sprung models. You won't need them anyway - parabolics on a Series LR will only lean uncomfortably if you're going too fast for the corner anyway.


FWIW I believe they did have them on 109 ambulances, at least in the rear.
 
Poodle thats some going to fit a full set in 3-4 hours but you must have all the right gear for me it was the first time and the only time
 
Reerider i think it took me five hours to do my rears with a 4 post lift and a hand when I need it, and about 5 hours to do the fronts on my own on the road :)

3-4 hours must take a lot of gas axing :)

Still need to cut away my cross member to make space for my prop also known as 'The snagger mod'! This weather is really bugging me!
Maybe this weekend!

hehe!
 
no gas axing no lifts just a couple of sockets several bars a trolley jack and some axle stands oh ah of course assorted hammers. soak everything in wd40 for a few days before tackling it, and that time frame does include several obligatory tea breaks.
 
Still need to cut away my cross member to make space for my prop also known as 'The snagger mod'! This weather is really bugging me!
Maybe this weekend!

hehe!

The need to cut way the crossmember to make clearence for the prop does not sound wright to me.. I know the prop angles will be greater than original, but check first to see if such a thing is necessary.
If you find that prop fowling is a prioblem, how about moving the engine and box back on their mountings, which allow for fore and arft adjustment.
 
Interesting to read about your springs. I need new ones on the front at least. Is it worth me replacing my leaf springs for a more modern equivalent? Any suggestions?
 
Depends what you use your landy for really.

as for the prop fouling. given its a FFR on a combat chassis and things are tightish before you even fit paras.
Do you need a step ladder to get in or work on the engine? :D
 
FWIW I believe they did have them on 109 ambulances, at least in the rear.
You're quite right - this month's LRE came through the post yesterday, and in it that have a re-chassis article on a Series ambulance. It has front and rear antiroll bars. The front one is mounted on top of the dumbirons, and the rear on the bottom of the rear chassis rails. The mountings are unique to the ambulances (they also have non-standard body outriggers, and contrary to the article, have special forward tanks as the rear bar prevents use of a rear tank, and the front outriggers prevent fitting of standard front tanks - they have 11gal tanks with shortened rears as opposed to the normal 12gal tanks). I didn't know the FCs had them, but it makes sense. Typical to learn something new just after posting a reply to the contrary!:rolleyes:
 
The need to cut way the crossmember to make clearence for the prop does not sound wright to me.. I know the prop angles will be greater than original, but check first to see if such a thing is necessary.
If you find that prop fowling is a prioblem, how about moving the engine and box back on their mountings, which allow for fore and arft adjustment.

I think I recall he had exactly the same trouble as me on the test drive after fitting the paras. It's an easy enough mod to someone who know how to wield a welder.
 
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