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I'm not strong.. it was weak.


Big Landy Fan
I snapped the nut off the air release bolt on the top of my DPS fuel pump this morning when trying to manually pump fuel to engine after it stalled a quarter of a mile up the road.
Now need to get the Landy off the yellow lines, preferably by starting engine so need to glue or temporary fix bolt back in hole.
The 648 we've got is out of date. One of the other glues doesn't like deisel or acetone.
Off to try jubily (sp?) clip & some tube for now :(
Here's a pic of offending article.


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Panic over. What goes up must come down.. when you can't push a Landy up hill, roll it down instead. Now nearer home so less distance to walk if I want to visit. Off the bends where cars park either side & just ripe to be hit up the rear by a racing driver. A Friday so no more school for a week Yipeee & I can't get to visit sick relatives. Every down has it's up's. :)
What I would do in that situation is find another bolt the same size, thread and shape with a file to replace it until I could get a suitable replacement. I have other ideas on what can be done but not being there i'm not sure as what is going on. Is there still a piece of bolt stuck in the pump?
Is that nut supposed to come off?
The coloured sticky tape is the fuel cut-off solonoid & connector, next in line of the pic is the hingey part on the top of the DPS (I think that moves to allow more fuel to be pumped to the engine via the spill rail) it's worked by the accelerator cable.
The nut next to that is the one we (use to) open slightly, then manually work the lever on the lift pump until the air bubbles popped out & fuel starts to pour. Then it was a case of tighten nut back up whilst holding the lift pump lever in the upward position.
With someone else about it helped to have 1 person turn the engine over about 3 times (but not start it) to help the process of shifting air out & fuel in.
So this morning I did 3 goes on the lift pump & 2 at turning over the engine inbetween... tightened up the nut & a little extra umph to make sure air wouldn't get in again too soon & the rudy thing flew off.

The top of the DPS (where the nut sits) has a recess, the brass washer fits there. The open nut sits on the washer (it has a thread inside it) & the bolt with the flat side bolts down. The bolt has a taper at it's end that must just about sit in the hole of the DPS.. the hole looks as if it has a tube about 2 & a half mm just peeping out the top.. Alas not enough to get a tube attached/clamped so we could pump fuel into it & fold the end over (& clamp) as a temporary measure to drive Landy home.
Gaffa tape wouldn't grip once we'd managed to get the fuel to flow & by the time we dried fuel off so it would stick the air was back in so Landy still couldn't start.
I guess the bolts flat side allows some air to pass up the bolt when slightly undone if the DPS has some in it.
I would have thought the nut should have been welded onto the DPS but it looks as if it were just glued. Now that its cold & away from home we can't get glue/adhesive to stick the washer & nut back in place.
You need to get the screw thread out Alice. Use a small file, take off the handle, tap it in and it should unscrew the thread. (A set of cheap extractors are only a couple of pounds.) Then put another bleed screw and housing in. If you can get a screw or bolt of the same thread, put that in with the sealing washer.

If the file doesn't work, I'll get some extractors off Fleetwood Market and send them down to you.

This is a DPA type pump, the part you want is number 31. It is fitted to the side, but it's the same thing.



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I think the bit I'm refering to is 70 & 71... the bolt in 71 does unscrew. Or did unscrew but since it was fitted 6hrs after the 648 was applied it might have got glued into the nut. The glue didn't hold lunch-time. Might be too old or cold or damp.
69 might be the 2mm raised tube that is visible from the top of the DPS, it's still there.
Thanks for the picture, we might have that in our manual already, I shall take a look in the morning.
30 - 33 are the bleed srcew and the nut it sits in, there are 2 fitted to a DPA. It's the same part on a DPS.

The nut that has sheared should have a short male thread that screws into the top casting. That will have sheared, so the short bit sticking out should have a thread on the outside. It should unscrew with pliers or mole grips, if it's standing proud.

Part 71 looks like the stop limit stud. It should be the same thread.

The nut & washer that came off are in a similar position to 70 & 71.
The parts haven't sheared off, got lost or stuck. It just came away with the spanner when I turned it too hard. There is a bolt similar to the 30/33 that you mention... it's in the picture above. There is presous (sp) little surface area for adhesive to adhere to. So nothing actually broken as such except the original adhesive. The thread of the nut might be a bit yuk now, have to wait & see. If it does leak when finally stuck then it'll need replacing but in the meantime maybe a wad of magnet filled blue tac will plug... so long as the lid of the pump isn't aluminium.

We've got some 1566 under the sink.. he thinks it not the most suiable as it likes to slide before it sets & is a bit thick.
When bolt is in nut, the pointy end barely sits in the tube.. if we get the height wrong then the whole thing will just lift straight off again when we turn the bolt down or not close the gap & allow fuel to spill or air to be sucked in.
Straw.... camels back. Plenty astericks + :) :) :)
Did you get it sorted Alice? Got my rope & jump leads on standby:D
Not yet.. we've got some 648 Loctight arriving in a bit. 638 might have been ok too. It's anarerobic adhesive (sets off rapidly minus air) retains strength at high temperatures 180%c, used on bearings etc. so it should bond ok. (fingers crossed) The bolt might still be the cause of air in if it's thread is worn but for starters a rubber washer may take up the gap.

Thanks for asking :)

ps.. in ad trader someones got a series with a V8 CSW for sale for £650 nr us... so if you get bored... :D
The loctite 648 did work for a while.. Battery flat so bought another then primed & 'gently' tightened the bolt down with the aid of a rubber washer.
...but that split & flipped off so had another go & added some fishtank adhesive around the outside too as it makes a fairly good seal & can withstand high & low temperatures.

After 5 days & about 20miles the rubber split again and engine stalled once more as air enters the fuel system. Ravaged car for an extra washer & nearly made it to where we wanted to go.
Alas vibration of the DPS let the worn bolt work loose & this time the nut had come away from the copper washer so diesel seeped too well around the extra seal & we came home in one of those nice orange trucks.

Landy is very economic in the gallons per mile department atm. I just wish she wouldn't muck about just so she can get picked up :)

Going to take the top off the DPS tomorrow & maybe go buy a 90 if all goes badly.
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