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Incorrect charging rate?

K&S

Big Landy Fan
I have a problem with the charging. I never have problems with a flat battery until I drive with my lights on. Then when I stop and try restart I sit with a flat bettery. This has happened twice now.

I have higher watt headlight globes fitted. They are rated at 100 watts on bright but I don't know what they are rated at on dipped beam. I haven't used the the main beams (brights) because I've been driving in town.

How do I check the alternator charge rate. I have a fancy digital multimeter gadget at my disposal but I'm very stupid when it comes to using things like that so I need very step by step instructions.

I've got to go on a long trip on Wednesday and I would like to be able to use the headlights without having a flat battery otherwise I'll have to make sure I drive only in daylight and hope there's no heavy rain.
 
Call me and I'll go through everything with you on the phone.

I suspect your regulator is either on it's way out, or already deaded...
 
How do I check the alternator charge rate. I have a fancy digital multimeter gadget at my disposal but I'm very stupid when it comes to using things like that so I need very step by step instructions.
For a basic test, Turn the dial to DC volts ( 20 or the nearest setting)

Red to battery Positive, Black to Negative. Start the engine, should read 14.5v or thereabouts. Turn on the lights and draw some current, the voltage should drop and then rise again as the Regulator recognises the draw. It that is OK, then it may be a current ( amps) issue. That's diode, windings and rectifier problems.

Chris
 
Another very simple test of the alternator is to start the engine, and leave it idling. Then diosconnect one of the battery terminals. If the engine dies, there's definitely a problem with the alternator.

If the engine continues to run, you may still have an alternator problem insofar as it can't supply enough current to charge the battery.

Your 200W total of the headlights should only draw about 15 Amps, and the rest of the vehicle perhaps another 10 Amps. A 55 Amp alternator should keep everything happy if it's working properly.

You should have said something yesterday, I had my multimeter with me. :)

Cheers,
Marc
 
I would be very wary of taking a battery terminal off when the alternator is charging if you have any ECUs or other delicate electronics. If it is charging properly and the battery is disconnected, the full current goes down the wires and can cause surge damage.

Chris
 
I would be very wary of taking a battery terminal off when the alternator is charging if you have any ECUs or other delicate electronics. If it is charging properly and the battery is disconnected, the full current goes down the wires and can cause surge damage.

Chris

Chris this is a 1969 Series IIa we're talking about , or is that I haven't found the location of the ECU yet. :D


Chris, Marc & Bvudzichena,

Thanks for your help guys especially Bvudzichena for your time taken on the phone explaining this. :)

Briefly this was this result. I checked the charge rate and found it was 13.1 volts and when the lights switched on this dropped to 12.8v. I tried to put on a spare alternator that my one son gave me but it was impossible because with this engine conversion the alternator has no room for movement. I'll have to modify the mounting brackets soon to sort this out. Anyway I swopped the regulators of the two alternators and re-checked. Now I get 13.8 volts whether the lights are switched on or off. :)

Well I've got to say that it's great having two generous sons. Alternator from one son and the other donated his multimeter to keep in the Landy. (Now I've just got to learn how to use it properly. At least I can now do at least one thing with it.)
 
Now I've just got to learn how to use it properly.

Bring the meter with to the next pub meet. We'll have you up to speed within three beers :D :D :D

I'm relieved that the regulators were the same and that you sorted the problem with a simple swop out.

I'm worried about the heat coming from those banana branches (Marc, he has a high performance exhaust) possibly doing damage to the regulator on long trips during the summer.

Keep an eye on the situation.

Maybe it would be a plan to go around to Rob Leimer's to see if he's got any of those Series II dashboard extensions around the back, then we can wire a volt meter in for you.

Regulator - another item to add to the parts box....
 
Kevin

As a follow up to my previous post, I used to own a Series IIA Dormobile.

This is what the dashboard looked like after I'd added a dual battery, a couple of spots and fog lights and a few other bits and bobs. Apart from the supplementary dash, you'll see there are also a couple of extra switches on the main dashboard.

At the time, I couldn't get the proper dashboard extensions, so I made this thing myself. It was fit for purpose, but not as nice as the real thing from LR.

There are two extensions available. One has a couple of switch holes and two 50mm holes for dials. The other one just has holes for switches. Your would normally mount them next to the existing dashboard - one on each side.
 

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I would be very wary of taking a battery terminal off when the alternator is charging if you have any ECUs or other delicate electronics.

Chris, you obviously didn't look at the category under which Kevin started the thread... ;)

An ECU in a series???? Delicate electronics????? Delicate anything????? :rolleyes: The only thing delicate about Kevin's Landy is his passenger. :D

It's a 2A with a Chevvy 4100 straight six.
 
Marc,

You know that 88" Series 1 of mine that I'm keen on seeing parked in your garage?

Well, maybe I should fit a BMW 2.8i to it...

Then it WILL have sensitive electronics :D :D :D
 
Marc,

You know that 88" Series 1 of mine that I'm keen on seeing parked in your garage?

Well, maybe I should fit a BMW 2.8i to it...

Then it WILL have sensitive electronics :D :D :D

The only place that I'd put a BMW engine in a Landy is in the back... on it's way to the dump!

Marc
 
You know that 88" Series 1 of mine that I'm keen on seeing parked in your garage?

I've been looking through your previous posts to get a good look at the 88". From what I can see, she's in need of a LOT of love (and a small fortune to restore). Was she a petrol engine originally? Looks like someone tried to strip the paint with an angle grinder. Are the front fenders and bonnet missing?

Are they on NATIS yet?

What happened to the front axle of the LWB?

Cheers,
Marc
 
Chris, you obviously didn't look at the category under which Kevin started the thread... ;)

An ECU in a series???? Delicate electronics????? Delicate anything????? :rolleyes: The only thing delicate about Kevin's Landy is his passenger. :D

It's a 2A with a Chevvy 4100 straight six.

Shirley says thanks for the compliment. :)
 
I've been looking through your previous posts to get a good look at the 88". From what I can see, she's in need of a LOT of love (and a small fortune to restore). Was she a petrol engine originally? Looks like someone tried to strip the paint with an angle grinder. Are the front fenders and bonnet missing?

Hierdie trokkie sal jou uit die kwaad hou - of 'n egskeiding veroorsaak.

Yes, she was originally fitted with a petrol engine. The engine is there somewhere. Me still thinks BMW 2.8 is the way to go. Imagine the look on the face of the average boy racer in his Opel Corsa when you leave him at the lights in a 1957 Land Rover :D :D :D

The bonnet and fenders are around...

Are they on NATIS yet?

Unfortunately the SAPS are dragging their feed, so no, not yet. I suspect this all has to do with the three trucks being previously registered in the name of a farming company and the plod wanting to make sure that there aren't any claims against the trucks from him who stole the farm :rolleyes:

What happened to the front axle of the LWB?

The previous owner decided he'd restore the truck, so he "had a go" at the engine and front axle. What's left of the axle was last seen in the back of the bakkie. The engine's another story. It's either going to end up with a 2.5NA or (if I'm happy with the rebuild) my 200TDi. I'm thinking that since the rebuild is going to be such a big job, I may as well fit Defender axles.
 
I would be very wary of taking a battery terminal off when the alternator is charging if you have any ECUs or other delicate electronics. If it is charging properly and the battery is disconnected, the full current goes down the wires and can cause surge damage.


Yes, I know it's a Series, Marc, it is a general message to anyone reading the thread, they might try it on a vehicle with engine management and that could be fatal for the ECUs.

A Translation error...;)

Chris
 
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