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injector pump

jamie fortytwo

In Second Gear
Hello all,
series 3 2.25 (has not been started for two years ) won't start .Fuel is going into inj pump but not much coming out . have bleed inj pump using lift pump and get a good squirt of fuel when cranking engine from one bleed valve and less pressure from the other one .Should the lift pump bring fuel to the four out pipes couplings on the top of the inj pump
how much fuel should be coming out of injector pipe unions at injectors.i am getting a one to two second drip if i just loosen the nut.If i undo it and take off pipe i am getting a pfffft (very little fuel ) as the engine turns over . should this pffft be a good squirt of fuel or a dribble or a pffft .
Is there a way of seeing if fuel is getting past injectors .
thank you all
jamie B
i have a spare as it sounds as if its a bit knackered.

if your not getting diesel out the injectors and the pump has been bled proper then the pump has a fault.
A couple of things, if you have not already checked. There is a fine wire mesh filter inside where the fuel supply hose enters. Might check that it is not clogged. Also, check the fuel shut-off lever at the bottom of pump (dirty/rusty cable, if has been sitting), if it does not fully open it will restrict the fuel supply.

Good luck!
Just crack open the nuts on the injectors themselves, you should get a ppfftt of fuel at each one as you crank the engine over. Tighten injectors up again. Get a spray can of easy start ether and spray into the air cleaner while someone cranks the engine over with accelerator pressed fully down.
If it doesn't start now there is something wrong with engine.
A diesel needs 3 things to go. Fuel, air and compression.
If it has been sitting for 2 years there is a possibility that the injectors may have seized or stuck. Why not get them cleaned/serviced and then start again.

Good luck
It it has been standing for a while with an empty pump, the charging section of the pump will have probably have stuck vanes or the injector rollers will be sticking.

You need pressure from the charge pump to push the rollers back to the cams or they will not inject.

Slacken to injector pipes at the injectors, get someone to keep priming the lift pump whilst you turn the engine over. If you get a good spurt from them, tighten one up and it should kick, then start to tighten the rest.

It isn't a good idea to use Easy Start or similar on an engine that has been standing, The bores are dry, so the engine can try to start up without proper lubrication. ( I hate the stuff and never use it, so I am a bit Biased)

If the puimp does start to put a bit of fuel through, you could try giving the pump a few taps with a hide mallet or rubber hammer, it can shock the vanes and rollers out.

The engine will lack compression as the bores are dry, Injected Petrol engines and Diesels suffer from "Bore Wash", the fuel washes the bores of any oil. Try taking the injectors out and putting some oil in the cylinders overnight.

I am not a great fan of Easy Start either. Excuse the pun

But to get an engine going that hasn't been started in a while or the fuel system has been apart, it can be the difference between going or notgoing sometimes.

To just start changing engine bits because an engine will not start can be a waste of time and money in my opinion.

I work on the theory of 'pushing the envelope' to get a non starting diesel to go. Once that initial start has been achieved, you can then assess the enigne for the different components which make it go. i.e. compression or lack of it, smokey blue or black exhaust, fuel pressure, running rough, etc
It is hard to assess any of these things if the motor is'nt running.

Get plenty of battery power, even 2 x 12 v batteries with jumper leads if necessary and give it a really good go at trying to start. Fresh fuel filters allways help and give it a really good try. Maybe you will have to charge the batteries up for a second or third try, but try to get that inial first start before pulling it apart and replacing bits.

I kept the Bukh 20 starting in my Gaffer another 5 years with Easy start, before it was re-ringed. [A compression critical engine]
Working as a Marine Engineer at sea, we have a can of Easy Start tucked away for those occaisional difficult starts.

My thoughts anyway. :)
I think we are in agreement, though through different routes, MB.

You need to start the engine to see if it is OK, but I never turn a stood engine over until I put some oil in the bores and turn it over by hand, a bit of oil can make all the difference to breaking rings or not. Same with cranking the engine with the stop out, get some oil up to the bearings before it fires.

I tend to tow start an awkward engine, but you can't do that with an Auto or a Marine engine. Plus you life is at risk at Sea, so you use anything to start the engines.

As you say, new filters and a good battery are the first things, give it every chance.

I know on the old hand crank 2 , 3 and 4 cyl Listers you turned them over by hand with the decompressions on till you heard the injectors cracking off inside the combustion space a dozen times or so b4 winding up to a decent cranking speed and dropping the decompression lever.

Nuthing like the sound of a 2 cyl Lister starting up. Aaaabbooommmffffff...........aaabbooommffff.......aabboommfff......

I lived at a place called 'Lister City' for a year once, Whakatahuri in the Outer Marlborough Sounds, SI, NZ.

You had to start a Lister to do anything. Crank a Lister to do some welding, another Lister to get power to the house, Lister to operate the slipway, Lister to operate belt driven woodworking machinery.

Good point about the oil, all adds up to a bit more compression for starting. :p
Other type we had were Petter diesels, quite often single cylinders in older type Builders Dumpers.

When we rebuilt Leyland engines, we used to use assembly oil, then plug the injector holes. They were built without the Injector pumps fitted, as there were different versions for different types of vehicle. When the order came through, they were timed up and the correct pump and injectors fitted, so it was easy to put a bit of oil in the bores first.

Gardner LWs were always built to 150hp and LXs to 180hp, so they were fully rebuilt.

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