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It lives!

Abu

Trekker
Many thanks to Toppa (the only guy i could think of to solve my overheating problems:p) and to Dave H. Top Chaps:)

Im back in Southampton and the Landy lives:eek: It made it back to southampton under its own steam. Although it has reduced oil pressure on tick over.

Going up a steep hill. Temp guage shoots up past the red. The landy starts to look like a steam train but i can't pull over as there is a truck up my exhaust and no hard shoulder. Pull over at the top of the hill. Let it cool, top up with water have a little test drive then the engine decides to rev its guts out with no input from myself.

Took a while to figure it out.

Can ya guess what happened to cause the revving? Only thing i can't figure out is why it overheated in the first place? Water pump maybe? But then it behaved fine for another 40 miles.

Adam
 
Fuel/Oil bypass..? Probably oil from the crankcase breather or leaking from the turbo into the engine intake.?

Can be nasty, as depending how bad the leak is, there can be almost no way to stop the engine from revving into self-destruction (DONT be tempted in a panic to try and block the air intake with any part of your body!).

Did I get it right.?
Is there a prize?
;)

MikeA
 
Sounds right to me... You can attempt to stop the engine by dumping the clutch in 5th, with the brake, but not for too long because obviously the brake/clutch will wear out!
The surefire way to stop it is to unload a whole Co2 canister into the air instake. Otherwise, you just have to wait until all the bits of your engine land on the floor! :eek:
 
A 200 tdi feeding its own oil form the turbo will rev for a good min or two then run reasonabbly fine for another year!!!

Dont ask me how i know :D



Cheers
 
Its not a turbo. Just a normally aspirated engine.

Overheating caused the expansion tank overflow pipe to blow off and jam itself in the accelerator linkages:eek::D Which gradually built up the revs:rolleyes: Somehow.

Turning off the ignition and the engine still ran?? I guess that is why Dave suggested i had cooked the engine and it was burning engine oil? I guess this is still a possibility? Would it account for the oil pressure light coming on at tickover a bit more then it previously did?

I did 40 miles afterwards. The temp stayed just below half. Where it usually is. If i have caused damage to the engine which i probably have are there any precautions i should take/ get someone to do?

Ive got plans afoot to buy myself a new car in the next year. possibly another landrover, a newer one and more refined 300 tdi :D Time to figure out what i want to do... Any advice guys?

Adam (slightly dissapointed he's not in plymouth getting exceedingly lashed):D
 
Overheating caused the expansion tank overflow pipe to blow off and jam itself in the accelerator linkages:eek::D Which gradually built up the revs:rolleyes: Somehow.

Damn!
That was going to be my second guess... :rolleyes:

Turning off the ignition and the engine still ran?? I guess that is why Dave suggested i had cooked the engine and it was burning engine oil? I guess this is still a possibility? Would it account for the oil pressure light coming on at tickover a bit more then it previously did?

Well, self-feeding would certainly do what you said. Im not familiar enough with these engines to sugest where the oil is coming from, but be very wary of starting the engine until you have had a good search for it...

It would have to be a large leak to reduce the oil pressure, and I would have thought you would have other symptoms... or perhaps your engine over-revved and damaged a bearing(s)... is there any rattling or knocking? (that wasnt there before!)

I did 40 miles afterwards. The temp stayed just below half. Where it usually is. If i have caused damage to the engine which i probably have are there any precautions i should take/ get someone to do?

Find that leak!
Or at least, eliminate as many possibilities as you can.
Check for any oil leaks (could be fumes/aerosol mist - i.e. from crank case), blocked breather etc. Is the air filter OK? if its choked up, could the increased vacuum in the inlet manifild be sucking in oil from a breather..?
Im just guessing.
Someone more familair with the engine should be able to tell you more specific places to check...

Ive got plans afoot to buy myself a new car in the next year. possibly another landrover, a newer one and more refined 300 tdi :D Time to figure out what i want to do... Any advice guys?

I thought the 200tdi was thought tio be a better engine than the 300tdi? (or if not 'better' then more preferred for various reasons?).

Adam (slightly dissapointed he's not in plymouth getting exceedingly lashed):D

Chaque a son gout...
 
If your breather from the top of the engine goes into the airfilter that could explain the revving. I think its the same set up as a TD IIRC, just without the turbo on. Pull it off and check for lots of vapor/ oil when its running. What many people do is to get a longer piece of pipe and run it into a hole in the chassis so any oil that comes out doesnt go into the air intake and also rust proofs the chassis! Or yo can buy oil catch tanks, do a search on 'tinternet. Their easy enough to make, would be good practice with your new welder;)

Cheers, Ben
 
mikeau said:
I thought the 200tdi was thought tio be a better engine than the 300tdi? (or if not 'better' then more preferred for various reasons?).

Lots of people prefer the 200 to put in NA/ TD landies because it uses the same gearbox and same engine mountings. You literally just have to remove one engine and slot the other in (well, you have to fiddle about with a few things like rad/ intercooler and some pipework). I prefer the 200, I've driven a standard 300 and it seems flat until the turbo kicks in high into the rev band, and by that time its time to change. I think its because the turbo on a 300 boosts at a higher bar, so needs more oomph to get wound up (feel free to correct me:D).
Having said that the 300 is more tweakable, and is a fantastic engine if you add a bigger intercooler and do the pump timing, but thats not for me. Also you have to put in a R380 gearbox too, it wont mate up to the LT77. There are probably conversion kits, but TBH it would probably cost only a little less or the same as buying another gearbox, and you'd have the added hassle of faffing around and a weaker box if you went 300/ LT77 combo.
Thats just my 2 cents worth, some prefer the 200, some prefer the 300, at the end of the day its personal choice. A 200 is simpler to fit to the older vehicles though, same gearbox and engine mounting points. I think you have to put on new mounting points for the R380 too.

Cheers, Ben
 
The 300 will fit an lt77 just that it requires abit of tweeking. Apart from that, theres not much between them. Some say the 300 is more refined but I just fitted some of the sound deadening to my 200 and its definately quieter. I dont know about the mounts but as Ben says they may have to be moved.

H
 
There we go then, I thought the 300 wouldn't fit the LT77. Maybe people replace the lot bacause its easier and you get a stronger box then.

Cheers, Ben
 
The 300 will fit an lt77 just that it requires abit of tweeking. Apart from that, theres not much between them. Some say the 300 is more refined but I just fitted some of the sound deadening to my 200 and its definately quieter. I dont know about the mounts but as Ben says they may have to be moved.

H

Where/how did you fit the sound deadening to yours? I know its supposed to have matting under the bonnet for a start, this is missing from mine as its a TD bonnet. I did considering getting the £50ish soundproofing kit from paddocks, but it just looks like carpet thats going to get covered in mud.
 
The landy did 120 odd miles today:) No oil pressure at idle when the engine is warm. And its breathing like a whale. But it seems to run ok so im happy:)

Current thoughts...

If the current engine doesnt last a year i'll replace it with a 200tdi. If it does then i think ill just buy myself something (hopefully a defender or a euro box motorway cruiser) post millenium and turn ol' stinky into a toy:rolleyes:
 
. I did considering getting the £50ish soundproofing kit from paddocks, but it just looks like carpet thats going to get covered in mud.

I have that on my 110 and as you say it does act as a big sponge for all the mud and water which probably does your footwells no good at all.
The under bonnet part of the kit is OK but to be honest it doesn't make a huge amount of difference to the in cab noise levels, especially if you've got a 12J rattling away under the bonnet! :rolleyes:
 
Well, self-feeding would certainly do what you said. Im not familiar enough with these engines to sugest where the oil is coming from, but be very wary of starting the engine until you have had a good search for it...

It would have to be a large leak to reduce the oil pressure, and I would have thought you would have other symptoms... or perhaps your engine over-revved and damaged a bearing(s)... is there any rattling or knocking? (that wasnt there before!)

Find that leak!
Or at least, eliminate as many possibilities as you can.
Check for any oil leaks (could be fumes/aerosol mist - i.e. from crank case), blocked breather etc. Is the air filter OK? if its choked up, could the increased vacuum in the inlet manifild be sucking in oil from a breather..?
Im just guessing.
Someone more familair with the engine should be able to tell you more specific places to check...

Just seen your post...now im home with my tools ill get on it and have a big ol nosey tomoz.

The engines only leak is the sump plug. and its not large. It did have low oil pressure too before the incident but the light would only flicker, not stay on bright. ill renew the airfilter tomorrow as a matter of course. I've read something about worn bearings being a cause for low oil pressure. and the engine seems to purr along nicelly as it did before. It turned off immediatly after the journey today.
 
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