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leaking oil

Landyman73

Shifting Up
Hi

I have the 2.5 td and recently had a new rad fitted along with a new water pump and fiscus coupling.

I noticed today that the old girl is losing oil from the radiater:eek:

There is what looks like an oil pipe going to the rad on the offside of the rad, at the bottom,this is where the its leaking from, around the connection and running down onto the chassis and dripping from there.

Any idea what this pipe is, ie an oil cooler pipe, how does it work and is it east to repair. Pipe feels tight where it connects to the rad and at first inspection appears to not have holes in it.

Thank for you advice in advance.
 
If you or somebody has had the rad off did the "O" rings on the oil pipes get renewed ??

If not renew them, BOTH, and at the same time check that there's no cracks in the pipes or olives.
 
If you or somebody has had the rad off did the "O" rings on the oil pipes get renewed ??

Good question, In short no, Didnt even know they had o rings on.

How long would it take to do, and are these pipes oil cooler pipes

On a scale of 1-10 how hard would it be?

Would i be right in saying that you would undo the first nut and then the second one (the second being the one which connects to the rad) and fully undo till pipe disconnects?

Will i lose much oil when disconnecting the pipes.

Thanks for your patience and advise.:D
 
Skill level 0 :D :D

They are not strictly an oil coler, more of a heat exchanger :p I've yet to work out if the oil cools the water or the water cools the oil, I think I've got that right.

I can't remember the spanner size. You'll need two spanners. One to hold the bit on the radiator and the other to undo the nut.
The pipes will move back away from the radiator.
Do both pipes.
Undo the top one. Then the bottom one.Replace the O ring in the bottom pipe and tighten. Then the top pipe.

You'll not loose enough oil to notice if you do the job with a cold engine.

HTH
 
Water cools the oil.

The larger nut is part of the rad. As MM says, hold it with a spanner or it can tear it out when you turn the spanner on the nut.

Chris
 
Thanks for the advice.

Think im going to have to remove the coweling around the rad to get to the nut on the rad but that looks easy enough.

Just hope i have not damaged the rad in my feeble attempt to nip the ****** up earlier today, which is a possibility as she is now loosing more oil than when i started, ****** and ****** again.

Thanks again and pray for my rad not being feked please, oh and some good weather at the weekend

Will keep you posted

Cheers
 
New rad you said:p

Was that a new rad or your own rad recored.
I prefere to have my rads recored as I then keep the original tanks for the rad.

If you had the rad recored and it's leaking. Ask the rad man to repair it.
 
Update on oil leak

Set about repairs with the above advice and all went well untill i over tightened the thing that connects to the rad and it sheared off, Doh,

Good news is the thread came out easy and is gonna cost no more than about three quid to fix , Yay.

Thanks for your advice guys, owe you one.
 
Update on oil leak

Set about repairs with the above advice and all went well untill i over tightened the thing that connects to the rad and it sheared off, Doh,

Good news is the thread came out easy and is gonna cost no more than about three quid to fix , Yay.

Just a suggestion, but if you're worried about leaks and worried that you might over-tighten the fitting, you can apply a seam of instant gasket on the outside end (that is the end facing the engine) of the threaded connector on the radiator. This would give a seal (which shouldn't be too hard to break if need arises later) without risking torquing the connection too much. And of course don't forget to fit the O-ring into the pipe cap that runs from the engine.

Cheers.
 
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