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New one on me


Big Landy Fan
Quote from someone when I asked about fitting new disc's

'A mate told me to make sure to clean (wire wheel on drill) the face where the new disc fits on to ensure its fits proper because if you do not it could cause it to warp.'

Now have heard that you need to clean the disc (get rid of any protective coating, so they don't rust on the shelf) - and put copper greese between disc and hub, but never with a wire wheel on a drill...

Yes, you must always clean the face where the disc fits, a bit of grit or rust here will be multiplied to a large run out at the disc edge.
As Si and Jim say, the face must be clean or the disc will "run out", you will feel the steering shake when you press the brake ( if they are front discs) and the pedal will move as the pads try to move side to side.

It's really the same for anything mechanical, an old saying "Cleanliness is next to Godliness";)

Thanks, have always cleaned all mating surfaces, just a wire drill thingy seems a bit ott.

next random question - rear drums on my skoda (ok I will get a Land Rover soon I promise) - well technically I do - but only three wheels .

Right back to the question - rear drums being pain in the a**e to remove - any suggestions?

Thanks again
spent two fruitless evenings trying to persuade landy rear drums off. lots of prising and rigging up pulling contraptions with threaded bar but to no avail. in the end i got the biggest sledgehammer i could find and hit the drum as hard as i could. both were off in seconds with no damage. Obviously any workshop manual will tell you never to do this as the drum will surely shatter, but in my case it was the only solution.
It pays to take the hub off with the drum, as long as the inner seal or ABS can pass the shoes. (in the case of cars)

Also, be sure you've backed-off the handbrake adjustment inside the drums and centred the shoes by giving the drum a light tap in all directions.
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