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Overdrive...which oil

John Lund

Overdrive!
Hi Guy's.

I read somewhere on the net that due to the low amount of oil contained within the Fairy Overdrive unit, plus the heat generated, synthetic oil is preferable to EP90. Would this be true?

John.
 
I think you can get mineral and synthetic EP90. Synthetic is better, but the important thing is that it's EP90.
 
Thanks Snagger for your input. I will check the availability of synthetic EP90.

You wouldn't happen to know where I can obtain spares for the Fairy unit would you?

So many questions, sorry.

John
 
Dont do what I did and spend money on an expensive synthetic oil and only find it liberally sprayed underneath about 6months later:rolleyes:
 
Be careful of modern oils and modern anti friction additives. Word has it that some of them reduce the friction too much and make it difficult for the synchromesh cones to bite properly so they heat up and wear out. That's the main reason why its GL4 rather than GL5 that's specified as GL5 has more anti friction additives. I'd assume they wouldn't do well on Slick 50 or Molyslip either. I took the GL5 back out of my main gearbox and overdrive and replaced it with GL4 when I found out about that. I left it in the diffs, hubs and transfer box though as they have no synchos. There also used to be an issue with some oils attaching brass components but I think all reputablel modern oils are buffered to prevent that now.

Disclaimer
That's my understanding of it from what I learnt on here and researched a bit further on the web. It could be wrong in whole or in part but i'd suggest that its worth considering and checking out before you change from the original spec oil thinking its an improvement.
 
Be careful of modern oils and modern anti friction additives. Word has it that some of them reduce the friction too much and make it difficult for the synchromesh cones to bite properly so they heat up and wear out. That's the main reason why its GL4 rather than GL5 that's specified as GL5 has more anti friction additives. I'd assume they wouldn't do well on Slick 50 or Molyslip either. I took the GL5 back out of my main gearbox and overdrive and replaced it with GL4 when I found out about that. I left it in the diffs, hubs and transfer box though as they have no synchos. There also used to be an issue with some oils attaching brass components but I think all reputablel modern oils are buffered to prevent that now.

Disclaimer
That's my understanding of it from what I learnt on here and researched a bit further on the web. It could be wrong in whole or in part but i'd suggest that its worth considering and checking out before you change from the original spec oil thinking its an improvement.

wish I could remember what i put in there now:p
 
My understanding is that GL4 is compatible with any yellow metal in Landrover boxes and will not leach the metals. However Millers GL5 ep 90 is compatible with the said boxes. Some other makes of GL5 may be similar. Check with their technical dept. Millers are great in this respect.

Some synthetic oils may not be compatible with yellow metal. Some are, so check first. I aint heard about the decreased friction thing regarding synthetics and series boxes Fergie........But I heard about the price:eek:

Alex
 
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