My D3 Project

[gstuart]

Hi

Former TD4 owner wishing to say hello to the D3 section bought a base model a year ago as a project

done the usual upgrades , egrs blanked , front and rear cam belts , oil pump casing

had to replace curtain airbags , fitted electric front seats , D4 indicator and wiper stalks , compressor , air tank, undersealed and waxed ,

still got more work to do , rear upper wishbones , ns front drops overnight , either a strut or air leak

gary

 

[Lighting90]

Post some pictures, I am curious how it is going, it is on my mind to make a D3 my next vehicle of choice.

 

[Satancom]

My next land rover purchase is going to be a D3 also, i need a 7 seater and disco 1's and 2's just rot for fun and I detest welding. Stuck with an old ercedes at moment and will keep runnin gthat till I can aford a D3, be while yet till they fall to my price range but keep looking for a broken one! The TDv6 timing belts are fun on the back of the engine :/

 

[gstuart]

hi guys

here's a few pics of my D3 and some work i've done , can see the egr caked with junk and happier i removed them

PS , thks a million for making the uploading of pics so much easier

 

[gstuart]

hi

wished to share this , i wrote this buyers and hope it may be of use to help others on what to look for

this is work in progress for the TDV6 , apologises i can't comment on petrol engines as i haven't owned one

accept no responsibility, this is only a general guide from personally owning a D3 and from learning in what to look for

IMPORTANT, Make sure oil pump cover has been replaced to the new style, its a must , otherwise they can destroy the engine , particularly on 2007 onwards, it's been reported from other members that even MY2005 have failed, so always better to be on the safe safe and get them checked / replaced regardless of year

Belts front and rear , tensioners , to be replaced every 105,000 miles or 7 x years , which ever comes first , the body does NOT have to be removed for the replacement of the belts

Prices for a half decent base model ,are averaging 7 -8k , all depending on mileage, history condition etc

as u go up the models , insurance becomes more expensive

base model is ins group 33

there are plenty of project D3 s on the market, but can work out very expensive to repair , buyer beware

do an online full Hpi check
MOT , check online for previous mots and adviseries
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-status[/COLOR]

service history
any receipts , proof of parts and work done

ENGINE

cam belts to be replaced 105,000 miles or 7 years , if not allow £1,000 to replace( body does not need to come off for front and rear belts)
look inside oil filler cap for any signs of water
check all levels , brake servo is under the LH cover
oil pump casing known to fail ( advisory to replace if it hasn't )
if blanking egr valves, 2007 onwards req a software patch
sticking turbo actuator arm ,
look at general condition of battery , age or any signs of leakage
condition of the engine bay, is there mud everywhere, signs of off roading
remove oil filler cap , pull off plastic cover , look at hoses , wires , general condition

ELECTRICAL / INTERIOR

check everything works, with no bong sound warnings
seats , windows, mirrors, etc
press every switch
depending on model , sat nav screen is clear with no flickering
front or rear parking sensors work ok
electronic hand brake known to stick, check operation
when engine is started all warning lights go out , but ensure lights are there before hand
with just the ign on check the srs airbag light shows up and goes out with the engine running
2 x keys come with the purchase , they are conductive charging , so when the key is put into the ign it charges up the battery inside the keyfob , Ensure they work , replacement key approx £250

BODY/ CHASSIS

have a walk around, look at panels, doors, any cracking or chips
see that panels line up, any overspray or previous damage
check spare wheel
look at entire chassis from front to back, oil leaks, wires damaged , dents in chassis etc,
behind sill covers is an area that can rust
look for any signs of leaks anywhere, i.e. front carpets , leaking sunroofs

SUSPENSION

compressors are renowned for failing
whilst in the vehicle with the engine running , look at the instrument panel, there should be no symbols , it looks like a car with an arrow
suspension has 3 x levels , access , normal and off road height, check each height setting and that no warning messages come up in the display

Wishbone bushes , to check these , out the suspension into access mode , grab the top of the wheel , pull the tyre towards u then away from u, in a rocking motion , trying to establish if there is any play in the bushes , to do it properly it needs to be jacked up, but this can at least give u a rough idea of the condition of the bushes

important , check them in the access height setting.

GEARBOX

terrain response settings , go through each one

snow
mud
sand
rocks, display comes up saying to select low gear ,

ensure smooth operation of hi /low transfer gearbox

drive along slowly in each setting , listening out for noises or clunks

centre diff lock is controlled electronically

On the higher models, i.e. HSE some have a rear electronic diff lock

BRAKES

look at all brake hoses and pipes
back brake pipes can be an issue
as mentioned , ensure electronic handbrake works correctly
after a test drive check each wheel, are they hot , signs of sticking calliper , handbrake

DRIVING

on starting the engine, did it start straight away, any smoke , is the rev counter fluctuating a lot , is the engine smooth , look underneath for any fluids leaking

find a quiet area with no other traffic, at around 5mph gently dab the brakes , listen out for any knocks, if u do can be an indication of worn wishbone bushes

wishbone bushes are known to fail , the D3 is a heavy vehicle , 2.7 tons

with ur hands just off the steering wheel, gently touch the brakes , does it pull to one side

now back on the road at the relevant speed limit , it should be smooth and quiet , automatic gearbox changing without knocks or bangs , is kickdown smooth

put ur foot down , does it pull ok, get it over 3,000 revs, are there any warning bongs or messages appear in the instrument panel , i.e. special programs off
this can sometimes indicate a turbo or sticking turbo actuator arm issue, but not 100% until codes are read

KNOWN ISSUES

compressor
oil pump casing, make sure this has been replaced, if not get it done,
turbo actuator arm sticking
wishbone bushes
rust under sill covers
brake pedal switch
suspension bushes
eats brake pads, weighs 2.7 ton
3 x electrical connectors that are behind front passengers inner wheel arch , known to cause errors


DIAGNOSTICS

can't recommend iid enough , is extremely beneficial , read and clear faults , calibrate suspension heights, able to update and flash engines ecu etc,

http://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/

will pay for its self very quickly, service is second to none from Gap

currently £420 , bluetooth model better, can use with a phone or ipad

GENERAL

MPG - expect 20 -22 around town , 28-35 motorway
very quiet at motorway speeds
extremely comfortable and very nice to drive
very capable on & off road
plenty of room , 7x seats
they are complicated , so a diagnostic reader is a must

as u go higher in the range the insurance becomes more expensive , Base model group 33

COSTS

compressor 450-500
tyres 100-120 each
cam belts, tensioner , allow a grand
strut , around £200 each
air tank £130

to be continued
always feel free if u think any of the information is wrong, sending me a pm plse, would rather know and correct it
so that at the end of the day it's 100%,

hope this helps
gary

 

[gstuart]

here's some other pics , upgrading front seats to electric , D4 wiper and light stalk upgrade , etc , also a few pics when i replaced the curtain airbags

 

[Lighting90]

Some good information there, what is the difference in oil cover you mentioned?

 

[Satancom]

The rear belt is a pig to do, only done one on a sport which i think has slightly less room.. Think my hand were still bleeding the next day

 

[gstuart]

Some good information there, what is the difference in oil cover you mentioned?

aplogies , will also put some pics into the buyers guide so it's in one place

looking at the cover the upgraded one has a reinforced casting , if they do break it can destroy the engine

hope that helps

newer type oil pump cover

Below is the older oil pump cover

 

[Lighting90]

Thanks, it does help, this is all good info

Sent from my BBA100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[gstuart]

The rear belt is a pig to do, only done one on a sport which i think has slightly less room.. Think my hand were still bleeding the next day

hi

i got replaced front and rear belts, tensioners , aux belt , water pump and upgraded oil pump cover

was lucky enough to watch them being done , took around 5 x hours for the whole job and fully understand what u mean ref the rear belt and how tight it is , seeing u have to work virtually blind

 

[gstuart]

Thanks, it does help, this is all good info

Sent from my BBA100-2 using Tapatalk

happy to help as going from a td4 to a D3 was a big eye opener , seeing it also had a lot wrong with it, taken me nearly a year to get it nearly done, but got to admit is my favourite landy so far and learnt a huge amount since owning it

but loved every minute of it , got a few bits still to do, fit new rear upper wishbones , will use the rrs ones , fit the 3 x silicone intercooler hoses , am dreading that , etc etc

biggest help was buying a diagnostic reader , expensive i know but has been a life saver , got the gap iid

chassis is now undersealed and waxed , inside and outside of the chassis with dinotrol, a good mate kindly done that for me as i've got a screwed up back

later job i think will be to install a split charge system, didn't realise they were so power hungry

is a pleasure to help where ever i can

 

[Big Sandy]

I've found this very interesting reading, thank you @gstuart
I've sort of looked at these later models (well, later compared to my SIII ) and thought maybe they were out of my reach, maybe not for an enthusiast owner, but I think you've changed my mind.

Be a while before I can afford one though

 

[gstuart]

I've found this very interesting reading, thank you @gstuart
I've sort of looked at these later models (well, later compared to my SIII ) and thought maybe they were out of my reach, maybe not for an enthusiast owner, but I think you've changed my mind.

Be a while before I can afford one though

hi mate , many thks and appreciate that , it has indeed been some hard work but just plodded along

funny enough my other favourite landy was my series 3 109 , maybe it was because i took the kids on holiday in it, was a petrol so a lot quieter over 50mph than my 88 diesel, blimey that 88 was noisy , learnt so much from changing clutches, half shafts , brakes etc which i feel put me in good stead with working on the D3

i first looked at the D2s but couldn’t find one without a rusted chassis, at one point thought of fitting a new chassis but not having a workshop i then started looking at the D3s, then found this one that needed a lot of work and basically paid peanuts for it, as i was prepared to walk away from it and went into the purchase with my eyes wide open

main things with these are , belts, oil pump covers, which are every 7 x years or 105,000 compressor, wishbone bushes and pads

think i’ve got another year to get it just right , like many of us landy owners i like things done just so,

next years list will be , inc some prices as well for comparison

rear upper wishbones , will buy the complete arms instead of fitting bushes £170
rear axle brake hoses x6 £70
fitting a traxide split charge system £80
leisure battery £77

all new OEM pads and discs all round front brake hoses and another complete brake fluid change , £200, will fit the straight forward ventilated discs, not keen on drilled or slotted discs

don’t think there really that much more expensive than other landies , after now owning mine a year have learnt if u can turn a spanner , buy a decent diagnostic reader (£400) they are well within reach of ownership

 

[Big Sandy]

Good to know, thank you.

Happy Rovering!

 

[mojofilter]

don’t think there really that much more expensive than other landies , after now owning mine a year have learnt if u can turn a spanner , buy a decent diagnostic reader (£400) they are well within reach of ownership

Do you really think so? I would love one, but always assumed to have one would probably mean giving up running multiple older vehicles. They just seem so horrendously complicated, and the threat of the next 2k bill being just round the corner.

 

[gstuart]

Do you really think so? I would love one, but always assumed to have one would probably mean giving up running multiple older vehicles. They just seem so horrendously complicated, and the threat of the next 2k bill being just round the corner.

there is that ref large bills as after i bought mine i saw reports of engine cranks snapping , then thought oh christ or words to that effect, lol

seems even the D4s have had reports of cranks snapping

replacing cam belts and oil pump cover every 7 x years or 105,000 u have to allow £1k for that


coming through ownership of landies for the last odd 25 x years or so i always adored the series , but then when i had my accident which involved pins and screws in my back it took away the strength from my left leg so autos was the only way i could continue to drive

so knew i had to move up the models to ensure i could remain with landies, tried a td4 auto freelander which done me proud but couldn’t keep up with the bigger landies off road , ie series fenders or discos, td4 just kept grounding out, so then moved onto the d3

alas i know they are more complicated but feel with some decent maintenance it should hopefully do me proud , wish to give an honest opinion in order that if others buy one they can at least see what there going into

bought the base model as i didn’t want all the extra mods, plus are more expensive to insure, mines group 33 and a HSE is group 37

from a personal point of view , u have to buy one with ur eyes wide open, ensuring it’s been maintained and can see the invoices in how well it’s been looked after

think there an aswesome motor , but must buy wisely, some are coming on the market with all sorts of problems that can cost a lot of money to resolve , ur if u know what ur looking at there are some real bargains to be had

hope this doesn’t come across as rude in any way as i know u guys are very knowledgeable concerning mechanical and electronics

agree in the sense some items on the d3 can be eye watering , but general service items arnt that bad, if i was to compare it to my late freelander, should have put that in my previous post,

the D3 has the same chassis and running gear, engine as a range rover sport , shopping around on ebay u can buy items a lot cheaper than the main dealer

blimey i’m writing my memoirs here, sorry am gassing again

i’m in kent and if anyone local is looking to buy one i’m more than happy to come along

 

[Tom Mepham]

I have worked on a D3 before. I fitted new wishbones on the rear and some other bushes. The bush that carries the hub on the wishbone is one of those self centring bushes like the D2 ace system has. As a top tip, get new bolts for those jobs. Wishbone bolts are not easy to access, I cut the old wishbone off with a grinder to gain access to the bolts.
Also I found the rear handbrake cables to bit a fiddle...biggest issues as always is everything being rusted in place. Overall it's not a bad vehicle to work on I thought.
I also did the steering colum UJs and shaft which was not very pleasant

 

[gstuart]

I have worked on a D3 before. I fitted new wishbones on the rear and some other bushes. The bush that carries the hub on the wishbone is one of those self centring bushes like the D2 ace system has. As a top tip, get new bolts for those jobs. Wishbone bolts are not easy to access, I cut the old wishbone off with a grinder to gain access to the bolts.
Also I found the rear handbrake cables to bit a fiddle...biggest issues as always is everything being rusted in place. Overall it's not a bad vehicle to work on I thought.
I also did the steering colum UJs and shaft which was not very pleasant

hi tom and many thks for the reply

been looking online for the upper rear wishbones and will indeed as u kindly suggested ensure i buy all new bolts

there’s a kit that i’ve seen that has both upper wishbones and bolts for around £170 inc vat and delivery , also a full set of rear brake hoses and the 2 x brake pipes, think that kit was about £60 , will see if there’s any sales on in january

wondering if i should also get some rear drop links, seeing it’s all coming out anyway , that way i’m thinking is it will be done and dusted and more importantly safe with all new brake hoses

i believe after fitting the wishbones u leave the bolts loose , put the wheel back on , lower it to the ground then do the bolts up, will of course also book in a 4 x wheel hunter alignment afterwards

may i ask do u think 30,000 miles is an average life span for them plse

my to do list has dramatically reduced , it was a complete wreck when i first bought it and this is roughly what i’ve got left

rear upper wishbones , not looking forward getting the old ones out, ie as u say rusty bolts
rear brake hoses and pipes
rear drop links
fit the 3x silicone intercooler hoses , inc fitting the T bolt clamps , see the small turbo one is suppose to be a pig
find the front air leak on the struts, made up a gauge to cut into the 6 mm pipe that also has an isolating valve , pump the front suspension up, turn the small valve off then bubble test the joints
fit a split charge system

replace the atf fluid

am very pleased with it and really do enjoy working on it, i just plod along

a good friend kindly done the chassis for me with dinitrol , also used the dinitrol wax system for inside the chassis , looks a lot better and well pleased, chassis is solid throughout

agree there not to bad to work on, struggle big time though due to the pins and screws in my back but is so nice having the landy as it keeps me occupied

will carry on posting pics as i progress, don’t think i will be doing much till spring time

 

[gstuart]

hi

wished to update and share my latest mod

now installed my T max split charge system, did have some spare conduit so just put it over the abs pipes, as the battery was close to the pipes

fitted fuses close to both batteries , wiring didn’t come with any conduit so even the wires that i threaded through under the dashboard are in conduit

got to get some battery terminal covers and just ensure everything is clipped cable tied, finish off the conduit at the ends etc

hope it may be useful to others