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How Do I? putting on the tub/seatbox.

nobber

Extreme Landy Fan
im putting on the tub and seatbox guys , now ive secured the tub down but the seat box and sills wont line up properly.
both sill bars have bolted onto the corners of the bulkhead/dash panel ok but point inwards , is this normal?
also the seat box corners to bulkhead dont want to line up properly , the whole seatbox seems to be sitting to much to one side.
if some one could please take a pic of where the seatbox bolts to the rear bulkhead and sill bars id greatly appreciate it , its just to give me an indication of where the holes go as ive had to fabricate my own.
 

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It all looks pretty normal. If you're worried about the sills being canted inwards, add a large washer between the sill and bulkhead foot on the inboard bolts.

The seatbases often need pulling out at the bottom to match the bulkhead, but are narrower than the flanges on the tub anyway.

The holes in the tub flanges are oversize to allow adjustment of the seatbase and sills. The diameter should be about 15mm.

Start by aligning the tub and bulkhead before fitting the other bits. With the bulkhead in its current fit, align the tub using lengths of string along the corners where the side radii meet the vertical section just below the cappings, lining up with the same corner on the bulkhead. This will give the pitch and yaw alignment on the tub. Once set, bolt the tub firmly to the chassis.

Once the tub is set, position the bulkhead by attaching the sills and adding or removing washers between the chassis outriggers and bulkhead feet to get the door apperture length set. Once fixed, set the vertical alignment of the bulkhead parallel to the fron edge of the tub and secure it.

Only once they're done should you fit the seat base. Lift it into rough position and loossely fit a few of the bolts that secure the top rear flange to the front edge of the tub ledge (behind the seats). With the seatbase centralised, fit the bolts that secure the vertical flanges of the seatbase to the tub flanges and sill rear brackets. You can then fit the rest of the botls and tighten up.

It's all on my blog, and there are no significant diffenrences between the 109 and 90 for this job.
 
Hey Nobber,

Sorry don't want to hi-jack the thread but where did you get ya paint from??

Is the rear tub spot welded onto the chassis/body mounts? or bolted?? haven't quite got that far yet but will soon, mines not going too bad at the moment seeing as my pug is dead!
 
secure the top rear flange to the front edge of the tub ledge (behind the seats). With the seatbase centralised, fit the bolts that secure the vertical flanges of the seatbase to the tub flanges and sill rear brackets. You can then fit the rest of the botls and tighten up

.

cheers Nick. the only problem i have with all this is i dont have any holes in the vertical tub flanges below the door striker plate where the seatbox bolts through to the little bracket that bolts onto the sill bar.the holes had rotted and the whole plate had to be cut out. ive since rivited a new plate in but as these holes were the only fixed point in the three parts as it were, i have nothing align it all up with.
 
Hey Nobber,

Sorry don't want to hi-jack the thread but where did you get ya paint from??

Is the rear tub spot welded onto the chassis/body mounts? or bolted?? haven't quite got that far yet but will soon, mines not going too bad at the moment seeing as my pug is dead!


got the paint from avenue coatings clg. http://www.avenue-group.co.uk/coating1.htm

the rear tub is bolted on , 8 bolts at the back or is it ten , just above the rear cross member and about 8 to ten bolts just under the front of the tub behind the seatbox.
 
got the paint from avenue coatings clg. http://www.avenue-group.co.uk/coating1.htm

the rear tub is bolted on , 8 bolts at the back or is it ten , just above the rear cross member and about 8 to ten bolts just under the front of the tub behind the seatbox.

Cheers nobber mate, i'll get benji to get me some paint, what do you think vesuvius orange or Alveston Red, can you get them in tekaloid, i'm going to be spraying it as well.
 
Cheers nobber mate, i'll get benji to get me some paint, what do you think vesuvius orange or Alveston Red, can you get them in tekaloid, i'm going to be spraying it as well.

why do you want to use tekaloid if you are spraying it?
you can spray tekaloid but ive noticed if you thin it it blooms.
unless you use antibloom thinners , which i didnt.
give avenue coatings a call and ask them about colors , you may need the color coded for them but they do have some landrover colors.

have a look here clg , give it a good read.
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/

yup , happly skint.
 
Cheers nobber mate, i'll get benji to get me some paint, what do you think vesuvius orange or Alveston Red, can you get them in tekaloid, i'm going to be spraying it as well.

why do you want to use tekaloid if you are spraying it?
you can spray tekaloid but ive noticed if you thin it it blooms.
unless you use antibloom thinners , which i didnt.
give avenue coatings a call and ask them about colors , you may need the color coded for them but they do have some landrover colors.

have a look here clg , give it a good read.
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/

yup , happly skint.:)
 
the only problem i have with all this is i dont have any holes in the vertical tub flanges below the door striker plate where the seatbox bolts through to the little bracket that bolts onto the sill bar.the holes had rotted and the whole plate had to be cut out. ive since rivited a new plate in but as these holes were the only fixed point in the three parts as it were, i have nothing align it all up with.
Yes, I remember that from the original tub repair thread. The holes in that vertical tub flange below the door strikers are not used for aligning the tub they're the 15mm ones I mentioned. By fitting the seatbase against the tub with a few of those top lip bolts, you can mark the big hole centres through the corresponding seatbase holes. Remove the seatbase and drill the 15mm holes. They're that size to allow plenty of movement between the seatbase, tub and sills when fitting up.

The holes for securing the front of the tub to the chassis can be done in a similar way - I had to do exactly this on my tub when I conducted an identical repair on those mounting flanges. Secure the rear of the tub to the rear crossmember, and then run string along the body radius corner as described to the bulkhead's radius corners. Get some help to lift the tub while to fit temporary shims under the floor braces to hold it in position. When the string sits in the corner with no gaps or kinks, the front of the tub is in the correct position to drill the holes in the new mountings. Once drilled, apply plenty of waxoil, fit the bolts, double chack and adjust the front alignment and tighten the bolts.

You should also be able to use the seatbelt bracket lower section as a guide - measuring across the chassis outrigers will give you the lateral spacing between the mountings. Mark those positions and drill the holse for the brackets' studs to pass through the new material in the tub "ledge" so that you can fit the brackets in the correct locations. The vertical section of each bracket will then denote the positions to drill the holes in the mounting flanges.

Like I said, it's all in my blog, with photos, in the "body" section.
 
thanks Nick , i appreciate it fella.
i probably wont be doing it until the weather clears up a little.
june perhaps.:)
 
sorted , used the string and a spirit level and a big plank.:)
i trial hung the doors and all looks well.
cheers guys , i appreciate the help.:)
 
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