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Replacement S3 88" Station Wagon side window advice

chris_debian

Trekker
Hi,

When I bought my S3, it has some black plastic window channels, in the back. The previous owner said he'd got these from the S3 club, to replace the existing fittings.

I'm a little concerned about tearing the window out, evn if it has got moss on the rubbers. Is this process documented, anywhere?

Thanks,

Chris.
 
I replaced the sliding channels on my SWB a few years ago. The best documentation which I could find was just the relevant page from the Parts catalogue (2H 16).

There are no documented procedures in the Green Bible or Haynes 314. However in Haynes F681 (LR S3 Purchase & Restoration Guide), there is a bit about putting the glasses into the door tops; unfortunately, there is nothing about removing the glasses.


Here are some comments which may help.
The channels are held in place with small screws, I think ½" x 6. You may have to dig around in the felt to find them.​


To remove the glasses and old channels, you will have to take off the sliding catches from the glasses, and remove all the ½" screws. Some screws will be difficult to remove (due to corrosion), but an angle grinder, preferably with a thin cutting disk, can be used to cut off the heads.​


The inner and outer channels have different part numbers (348394 & 348393), but are very similar. (Sorry, can't remember the difference, but it is minor.) Remember there are vertical channels at the ends, all (both?) of which are the same.​


To put a glass back in, I think you have to put-in the glass and channels together, and then screw down the channels, sliding the glass along to get access to the screws.​


I put black sealant on the channels to make sure there were no leaks. In theory I suspect that the sealant is not needed, but I put it on the bottom of the channels, and on the sides where they touched one another or the body. No sealant is needed on the inner side of the inner channel.​


After putting the sealant on the channels, I put them and the glasses in the frame. Since it takes a while to drill all the holes for the new screws and getting them all in, I used small G-clamps and big-clip-things to hold the channels in place. Also, I put wooden wedges between the inner channel and the frame to squeeze the two channels up against one another, and the outside of the frame.​


Haynes F681 had these tips:
The screws MUST be fitted below the level of the felt; when drilling make sure that the holes are at an angle so that the felt is properly held down by the screws.​


Make sure that the glass slides freely in the felt channel and does not catch on any of the screws.​
Buy new ½" screws, with phillips heads(Screwfix?). My original ones had slotted heads, which made them difficult to get out. The new ones which I used had a phillips head, which made it easier to screw them in. Also, in the few cases where the head of the screw was interfering with the sliding of the glass, it was easier to tighten them up.

Ta
 
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