-
Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums
You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.
Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now
General Sheet metal thicknesses...
- Thread starter Big Sandy
- Start date
ROB 110 HICAP
Extreme Landy Fan
cool, easiest one to remember 16swg = 1.6mm
Yes, thats a good thing to remember... Also important to remember the smaller the gauge number, the thicker the plate. (that confused the hell out of me to start with, maaaany moons ago.)
ROB 110 HICAP
Extreme Landy Fan
easily done, I never got on with the 'letter drill size' system either
No... I can relate to a drill thats say 3/32 or a drill thats 2.4mm... Never could get my head round letters... I can visualise the drill size by somebody saying 3mm.......
Never understood the decimal sizes either!
Never understood the decimal sizes either!
difflock123
Big Landy Fan
Shotguns confuse people as well....
A 12 bore/gauge is bigger than a 20 bore/gauge....
The numbers are worked out by how many balls of the diameter of the barrel a 1lb pure lead ball would need to be split into to fit the barrel.
So a 12 bore/gauge is a 1lb lead ball split into 12
and a 20 bore/gauge is a 1lb lead ball split into 20
I dont know but I presume the sheet metal gauges work from an old system the same?
A 12 bore/gauge is bigger than a 20 bore/gauge....
The numbers are worked out by how many balls of the diameter of the barrel a 1lb pure lead ball would need to be split into to fit the barrel.
So a 12 bore/gauge is a 1lb lead ball split into 12
and a 20 bore/gauge is a 1lb lead ball split into 20
I dont know but I presume the sheet metal gauges work from an old system the same?
Sorry, only just seen this. 
T1 - Naturally aged after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process, such as extruding.
T2 - Cold worked after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process and then naturally aged.
T3 - Solution heat treated, cold worked and naturally aged.
T4 - Solution heat treated and naturally aged.
T5 - Artificially aged after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process.
T6 - Solution heat treated and artificially aged.
T7 - Solution heat treated and stabilized (overaged).
T8 - Solution heat treated, cold worked and artificially aged.
T9 - Solution heat treated, artificially aged and cold worked.
T10 - Cold worked after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process and then artificially aged.
Additional digits indicate stress relief.
Examples:
TX51 or TXX51 ā Stress relieved by stretching.
TX52 or TXX52 ā Stress relieved by compressing
This was from here...
http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/blog/understanding-the-aluminum-alloy-designation-system.cfm
T1 - Naturally aged after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process, such as extruding.
T2 - Cold worked after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process and then naturally aged.
T3 - Solution heat treated, cold worked and naturally aged.
T4 - Solution heat treated and naturally aged.
T5 - Artificially aged after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process.
T6 - Solution heat treated and artificially aged.
T7 - Solution heat treated and stabilized (overaged).
T8 - Solution heat treated, cold worked and artificially aged.
T9 - Solution heat treated, artificially aged and cold worked.
T10 - Cold worked after cooling from an elevated temperature shaping process and then artificially aged.
Additional digits indicate stress relief.
Examples:
TX51 or TXX51 ā Stress relieved by stretching.
TX52 or TXX52 ā Stress relieved by compressing
This was from here...
http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/blog/understanding-the-aluminum-alloy-designation-system.cfm
Didn't know those, and have been working with aircraft aluminium for years!
ogb
Offroader
Thanks, Big Sandy. It'll help me to choose the right bits from my dwindling stock (obtained from the scrap bins at work) when I'm making stuff. I've lost a lot of time over the years trying to bend things that don't want to, and generally snapping!
One tip I 've learned: rub some bath soap on the bend line and heat it 'til it goes brown. This anneals the ally well enough for a couple of bends. It hardens up again quite soon though as it's "worked".
One tip I 've learned: rub some bath soap on the bend line and heat it 'til it goes brown. This anneals the ally well enough for a couple of bends. It hardens up again quite soon though as it's "worked".
Me neither, so I thought it best to link to the source so I don't appear cleverer than I am.
Which, to be fair, wouldn't be difficult......