• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Shock Drop Mounts

JimGNR

JimGNR

Trekker
I have just fitted a pair of -2" shock drop mounts to the rear of my Disco, has allowed the axle to droop much more so should keep the wheels in contact with the ground better.

I am thinking of doing the same to the front. Anybody done it on a Disco/Def/RR Classic? Is there as much advantage in doing the fronts?

I see in the LR mags that some companies are advertising twin shock mounts, why would twin shocks be an advantage? Would twin shocks not just make the ride stiffer?

Also, I am running Pro-Comp ES9000's, not bad but they don't seem to last, my rears have only been on about 9 months and are rusting!! I have been looking at the Koni adjustables, why would you adjust them? Soft for off roading and firm for on road?
 
You can get -2" front turrets but how effective they are I'm not sure. The limiting thing on the front is the radius arms. The axle needs to twist as it drops and the radius arms stop this. You can get a "3-link" (I think it's called) that is basicly a hinged radius arm with a locking pin.
The pin keeps it like a normal radius arm for road use and when offroad you remove the pin so the axle can rotate. :) IIRC you only need one of these on the axle otherwise nasty things can happend!!

The twin front shocks will make the suspension much stiffer. The idea of having twin shocks is that they only work half as much thus for the likes of comp safaris the heat build-up in the shocker is reduced and they last a bit longer.

I've put twin shocks on the rear of mine, to stop it bouncing so much and to help with the body roll when I took the anti roll bars off. It is a harsh(ish) ride on the road but I don't really notice it offroad. In my case the correct rated rear springs would have done the same job as the extra set of shocks but I'd only had the springs on there a short time & the company I got them from wouldn't exchange them. :( It works fine though. :D

My ES9000's (all six of them) have also gone rusty on the outside but work fine. It's easy enough (with the rears anyway) to respray them but they should last a while yet. ;)

Not sure about the adjustables, not had any, but I don't think you're too far off the mark.

Now that you've dropped the top mounting of the rear shocks, make sure they won't "top out" on full articulation before the axle hits the bumpstop. If they do then a set of extended bumpstops would be a good idea. ;)
 
Thanks Budgie, some good info there.

I already have the extended bump stops fitted so no probs there.

It's pretty well sorted for me now, does all I have asked of it so far. It handles very well on-road and has proved very capable off-road.

I think the next step may be some MT tyres or even some of those Insa Turbo Track's but then I reckon there will be too much strain on the standard drivetrain, instead of a wheel spinning it will probably pop a CV or driveshaft.

Saying that, the BFG AT's are very good, and when I get stuck I always have the winch to fall back on.
 
Back
Top Bottom