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How Do I? Stuck caliper bolt
- Thread starter Snagger
- Start date
Highway_Star
Trekker
And failing all that, if it shears or you end up having to grind the head off, you'll need to drill the damned thing out and re-tap the hole. Drill carefully to make sure that a; you're on centre, and b; you don't go too big for re-tapping.
I had to do this on one of the back caliper mounts on mr Range Rover, I don't recall the tap size off hand, it's something UNF IIRC.
The bolts are another matter. They are only available from Land Rover in packs of 5! And at over a fiver each bolt they don't come cheap. If you're lucky like I was you'll find dealer willing to split a pack. It's not one where I'd use anything other than OEM, it's mounting the brake caliper after all!
I had to do this on one of the back caliper mounts on mr Range Rover, I don't recall the tap size off hand, it's something UNF IIRC.
The bolts are another matter. They are only available from Land Rover in packs of 5! And at over a fiver each bolt they don't come cheap. If you're lucky like I was you'll find dealer willing to split a pack. It's not one where I'd use anything other than OEM, it's mounting the brake caliper after all!
Bilge rat 1
Big Landy Fan
got any cheap af or whitworth sockets, try wacking one on thats slightly to small. all the shock of wacking it on should help to free it off to. the other thing iff you take the bottom bolt right out then try to knock the caliper downwards to slightly loosen it. you may be lucky. good luck. alan.....
stevo
Trekker
Ah, but as far as I know, LR don't make bolts.....
Which means there should be markings on the bolt head to tell you what it is. Which means they can be bought elsewhere - probably the same place LR buy them from
landydoctor
Trekker
mine are 13mm
Highway_Star
Trekker
Correct Stevo, they don't make bolts, but if you buy it from a dealer you are sure a; it's the right size and b; it's the right ratings. Especially important for things like brakes. I wouldn't bother for most things but life critical bits I would.
I did actually try local engineering supplies place to get them, but as few places stock anything that isn't metric these days it was impossible. IIRC the shank on these particular bolts is an obscure length too, not an off the shank on these is an obscure length too, not an off the shelf job.
Ken110, what age is your vehicle? Would make sense that they metricised eventually!
I did actually try local engineering supplies place to get them, but as few places stock anything that isn't metric these days it was impossible. IIRC the shank on these particular bolts is an obscure length too, not an off the shank on these is an obscure length too, not an off the shelf job.
Ken110, what age is your vehicle? Would make sense that they metricised eventually!
Depending on the year of the car the bolt should be either 1/2"UNF or 12mm x 1.25mm. Note the thread pitch.
The 12mm bolt has a special head that takes a 13mm 12 hex spanner.
You cannot change that 12mm bolt for a 12mm bolt with a normal head. There isn't space in the calliper for the bolt head. Been there tried that I have the 30 quid die to prove it.
The 1/2"UNF should be available from any good fastener company. Just buy a higher grade of bolt than the soft carrot like 8.8 bolt.
Note also that the shank length isn't standard. You'll need to buy a longer bolt. Cut to length then cut the thread as required.
This is why I use new bolts each time I remove a calliper.
Also I use a thread locking compound to try to stop the bolt seizing in the thread.
Has anybody looked into the possibility of using an Allen bolt instead of the Land Rover one ?
The 12mm bolt has a special head that takes a 13mm 12 hex spanner.
You cannot change that 12mm bolt for a 12mm bolt with a normal head. There isn't space in the calliper for the bolt head. Been there tried that
I have the 30 quid die to prove it. The 1/2"UNF should be available from any good fastener company. Just buy a higher grade of bolt than the soft carrot like 8.8 bolt.
Note also that the shank length isn't standard. You'll need to buy a longer bolt. Cut to length then cut the thread as required.
This is why I use new bolts each time I remove a calliper.
Also I use a thread locking compound to try to stop the bolt seizing in the thread.
Has anybody looked into the possibility of using an Allen bolt instead of the Land Rover one ?
charliedenny
Extreme Landy Fan
I bought two rear bolts for the ninety last week cost me £1.30 and that was from the stealer!
CCKW353A1
Big Landy Fan
Depending on the year of the car the bolt should be either 1/2"UNF or 12mm x 1.25mm.
Well on my original D1 dome ended axles they were 7/16"UNF single hex head(5/8"AF), also the same on the replacement thin flange 200TDi disco axles as i had to drill out a broken bolt(rear) and clean out the threads with a tap(all).
Well on my original D1 dome ended axles they were 7/16"UNF single hex head(5/8"AF), also the same on the replacement thin flange 200TDi disco axles as i had to drill out a broken bolt(rear) and clean out the threads with a tap(all).
Depending on the year of the car the bolt should be either 1/2"UNF or 12mm x 1.25mm.
Well on my original D1 dome ended axles they were 7/16"UNF single hex head(5/8"AF), also the same on the replacement thin flange 200TDi disco axles as i had to drill out a broken bolt(rear) and clean out the threads with a tap(all).
I'm pleased you picked me up on that
You see I thought that they were 7/16 but looking at the die I got to do my calliper bolts I converted straight from mm to Imperial.Sorry.
Snagger
Posting Guru
Thanks guys. Muddybungy lent me his Irwin helical extractor sockets which did the trick (see the Defender section).
The bolt head was 13mm double hex. Muddy also gave me a perfect second hand one from the parts bin, so no worries about the replacement.
I managed to replace both CV joints now and the fault has disappeared, confirming my guess at the cause. One of the swivels had not been filled by whoever replaced the EP90 with One-Shot before I bought it - there was a dribble of rusty oil and a little water, plust a lot of rust on the CV joint and a little on the inside of the swivel housing and stub axle end. It's a wonder the CV joint lased 20,000+ miles like that! It's all done properly now.
The bolt head was 13mm double hex. Muddy also gave me a perfect second hand one from the parts bin, so no worries about the replacement.
I managed to replace both CV joints now and the fault has disappeared, confirming my guess at the cause. One of the swivels had not been filled by whoever replaced the EP90 with One-Shot before I bought it - there was a dribble of rusty oil and a little water, plust a lot of rust on the CV joint and a little on the inside of the swivel housing and stub axle end. It's a wonder the CV joint lased 20,000+ miles like that! It's all done properly now.