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Surface Rust

denzilsdad

denzilsdad

In Fourth Gear
Site Donor
Hi, hope everyone is well and happy.

Surface Rust - Pls see attached. What, do you reckon, is the best product to remove this? Is it then just a case of cleaning it and respraying or does it need a 'treatment' prior to repainting? The one that concerns me is the issue where the roof joins the body. Does it require sanding and repainting?

Have great respective weekends.

Thanks and regards,

Nick.
 

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Box of worms opened... :whistle:

If its only surface and can be sanded/ground back to steel then primed and coat of paint, then great.
In awkward corners etc, you need to remove as much as possible (wire brush?) then use something to neutralise any remaining rust then prime/paint.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on rust treatments, but phosphoric acid - based was considered the best for a long time (you can buy this is 'milkstone remover') and then the Elf 'n Safety brigade got involved. Many 'rust converter' products are now tannic acid or various other things which may or may not be as affective.

I usually try to to find a product with as many health and safety warnings as possible, as it will generally contain chemicals that will actually work!

Yours is (by a very large margin) not the rustiest Defender I have ever seen...
 
mikeau said:
Box of worms opened... :whistle:

If its only surface and can be sanded/ground back to steel then primed and coat of paint, then great.
In awkward corners etc, you need to remove as much as possible (wire brush?) then use something to neutralise any remaining rust then prime/paint.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on rust treatments, but phosphoric acid - based was considered the best for a long time (you can buy this is 'milkstone remover') and then the Elf 'n Safety brigade got involved. Many 'rust converter' products are now tannic acid or various other things which may or may not be as affective.

I usually try to to find a product with as many health and safety warnings as possible, as it will generally contain chemicals that will actually work!

Yours is (by a very large margin) not the rustiest Defender I have ever seen...
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t mind that amount of rust ..😁
 
mikeau said:
Box of worms opened... :whistle:

If its only surface and can be sanded/ground back to steel then primed and coat of paint, then great.
In awkward corners etc, you need to remove as much as possible (wire brush?) then use something to neutralise any remaining rust then prime/paint.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on rust treatments, but phosphoric acid - based was considered the best for a long time (you can buy this is 'milkstone remover') and then the Elf 'n Safety brigade got involved. Many 'rust converter' products are now tannic acid or various other things which may or may not be as affective.

I usually try to to find a product with as many health and safety warnings as possible, as it will generally contain chemicals that will actually work!

Yours is (by a very large margin) not the rustiest Defender I have ever seen...
Click to expand...
mikeau said:
Box of worms opened... :whistle:

If its only surface and can be sanded/ground back to steel then primed and coat of paint, then great.
In awkward corners etc, you need to remove as much as possible (wire brush?) then use something to neutralise any remaining rust then prime/paint.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on rust treatments, but phosphoric acid - based was considered the best for a long time (you can buy this is 'milkstone remover') and then the Elf 'n Safety brigade got involved. Many 'rust converter' products are now tannic acid or various other things which may or may not be as affective.

I usually try to to find a product with as many health and safety warnings as possible, as it will generally contain chemicals that will actually work!

Yours is (by a very large margin) not the rustiest Defender I have ever seen...
Click to expand...
I like the H&S advice. Yep, looks like I will need a valid EPP licence and photo ID to purchase milkstone remover as a civilian. I was looking at Jenolite one. Maybe go for that. My only worry is that, especially on the rear, it has plenty of decent paintwork near the rust and I don't want to compromise that. In terms of the corrosion between the roof and body, is that bad luck or bad construction? Good to hear it's not too rusty!
 
Fulltimedad said:
Phosphoric Acid for me after buying various branded rust converters.

Needs a good few coats and don’t let it dry out. Then wash off with brake cleaner and paint straight away
Click to expand...
Is there an alternative phosphoric acid-based one? Mikeau mentioned it was a bit strong and it looks like a bastard to get hold of.
 
denzilsdad said:
I like the H&S advice. Yep, looks like I will need a valid EPP licence and photo ID to purchase milkstone remover as a civilian. I was looking at Jenolite one. Maybe go for that. My only worry is that, especially on the rear, it has plenty of decent paintwork near the rust and I don't want to compromise that. In terms of the corrosion between the roof and body, is that bad luck or bad construction? Good to hear it's not too rusty!
Click to expand...

Mole Country Stores will sell you milkstone remover if there is one by you .

And phosphoric acid is readily available on EBay 👍
 
Oh yes there’s always parts you can’t see and get to .i bought a couple of funny shaped wire brushes at a Sortout last year which are pretty good at hard to get to places ..there’s always some your going to miss no matter what .
 
If you are using a wire wheel I'd personally only use that on steel with deep pitting. If removing aluminium corrosion or light rust on steel I'd use a nylon wheel - it will remove the ali dust and get you back to a shiny clean surface but is not as aggressive as a wire wheel. Aluminium is soft and a wire wheel runs the risk of removing too much good metal. Can also score the surface with too much pressure, which will spoil your paint finish. If you go back to bare metal etch it first before priming and painting. It will give a better bond and help protect against future rust.
 
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