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V8 won’t start, anyone from Aberdeen and can take a look?

Hello, I run an Edelbrock 1404 on my 3.5 V8 if ever I can find a good set of HIF6 SU I will change American fancy junk.
Start by checking you have a spark with a new plug, Then change all the plugs for new ones and set the idle screws to 1.5 turns out
If it has sparks and still does not go check you have fuel if necessary remove the carb and check floats, also check ignition timing has not slipped

Your rods are not on this chart very unusual

View attachment 521452
Hi, I have a good spark as I rigged up an inline spark tester this is what led me to think the plugs were black so I pulled one and confirmed my suspicions. I haven’t attempted to pull the other yet, access is tight and knowing my luck I will break something…Are you better to let any fuel in the cylinders evaporate first? Otherwise if its flooded you would just be putting new plugs into flooded cylinders.
When this issue started I screwed the idle jets in and backed out 1.5 turns but she’s not been running since but that’s obviously not related. I’ve not checked the timing, not much idea on how to do that yet.
I don’t know the jet and rod arrangement, I will reach out to the previous owner and see if he knows.

There is no choke connected, used to be 2 pumps of the throttle and she starts.

Thanks
 
Hi, cheers I’m in Bucksburn, Landy is in my garage for now, convinced the plugs is what’s stopping her from firing, got a good spark. Is Ricky still on the go? I used him about 20 year ago to set up my Renault 5 Turbo he done a cracking job. I need to ask the previous owner what the jets and rod set up is, it’s not done much driving for a few months just start up now and again so perhaps that’s not helped the plugs.
I haven't seen Ricky for 20yrs either but he still has a website {Ricky Gauld, Bridge of Marnoch}
Worth a try, at least with him you know he has proper experience of Carbs.
 
I haven't seen Ricky for 20yrs either but he still has a website {Ricky Gauld, Bridge of Marnoch}
Worth a try, at least with him you know he has proper experience of Carbs.
I thought the website looked dated but if I get it going again probably worth a call. I also wondered about Jim King out at Lethenty, which you probably know is out the back of Inverurie.
 
Got to be worth a phone call to Ricky, never dealt with Jim King, though he is not far from me.
Getting harder to find mechanics that know how the old stuff works.
 
And does it have a fuel pressure regulator? Facets can produce too much pressure. The Edelbrock needs 5psi.
If the pressure is too high it will affect the wet fuel level which is the foundation of tuning.
I put a smaller nozzle in the fuel return and also had an adjustable regulator set at 4psi.
That way the fuel was always available, and it didn't blow the float valves.
 
I put a smaller nozzle in the fuel return and also had an adjustable regulator set at 4psi.
That way the fuel was always available, and it didn't blow the float valves.
No return on mine. Have a Filter King with gauge permanently in there.
Likewise in the Rambler where the PO had installed a pump with too little pressure :confused:

As seen here... also the comedy crankcase breather... a 'temporary' arrangement from six years ago...

Comedy breather...JPG
 
No return on mine. Have a Filter King with gauge permanently in there.
Likewise in the Rambler where the PO had installed a pump with too little pressure :confused:

As seen here... also the comedy crankcase breather... a 'temporary' arrangement from six years ago...
I used to get 'carb icing' on my K&N equipped SU's, and my V6 used to do it sometimes with the twin Weber 40's, It always happened on the coldest rainiest days!
I finished up building some heated intakes.
I figured it may have something to do with the lack of sealing on the edges of the Lightweight bonnet where it meets the wings - it was perfectly in line with the filters.
 

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1404 come rich out the box.
If it's just been stuck on without re-jetting, it could have blackened the plugs over time and now it just won't fire at all. You'll soon know with any one spark plug removed!
If you do put new plugs in, they should be gapped. They do come with 'a gap' but it's not always ideal. Start at 35thou and see if more or less = better or worse.
Managed to pull the plugs and gap and install new ones. Turned the key and she fired up. The original plugs were so black. Now I need to investigate the 1404, lean the mixture and ultimately establish what’s installed for jets and rods and then get it set up.
 
Managed to pull the plugs and gap and install new ones. Turned the key and she fired up. The original plugs were so black. Now I need to investigate the 1404, lean the mixture and ultimately establish what’s installed for jets and rods and then get it set up.
Cheers for the offer of assistance Kevm 👍🏻
 
I'm not far from you so could come up for a coffee. I've got a colourtune plug somewhere and compression tester, timing light etc, but you are better using plug colour tbh. I think you need to sort out where your choke should be. Possibly forgotten after installing the engine.
 
I'm not far from you so could come up for a coffee. I've got a colourtune plug somewhere and compression tester, timing light etc, but you are better using plug colour tbh. I think you need to sort out where your choke should be. Possibly forgotten after installing the engine.
Thanks for the offer, I’m away just now but I’ve ordered a choke gable and bracket that mounts on the carb. I need to check what rods and jets are in the carb, the previous owner doesn’t know but as a minimum I need turn the mixture screws in and check the CO level.
 
Thanks for the offer, I’m away just now but I’ve ordered a choke gable and bracket that mounts on the carb. I need to check what rods and jets are in the carb, the previous owner doesn’t know but as a minimum I need turn the mixture screws in and check the CO level.
The mixture screws only affect the idle.
Set them to give the max idle vacuum.
If you weaken the idle it will bog on takeoff.

The carb comes as standard with an auto choke. If yours has no choke at all, then someone has removed it.

There is really no shortcut to setting up these carbs. One has to work though the tuning sequence, with an AFR meter, and that needs a bung welded into the exhaust, and a good deal of persistence. By the time one has bought the tuning kit and the meter, expect £400+.
This is why so many of them never get set up properly.

I think that since the advent of unleaded fuel, plug colour is no longer much of a guide, other than in terms of gross rich or weakness. In any case, one is in effect setting up two carbs, the primary and the secondary, and one cannot drive far enough on the secondaries to colour the plugs, other than on a rolling road at £100+ per hour.

If I had known how long it would take to set up and what it would cost, I would never have removed the SUs, although I had reason at the time.
 
I did weld a port into my downpipe and fitted a O2 sensor with a gauge that shows whether it is running rich or lean which kind of confirmed that it was somewhere right. I think that is probably a good investment if you are only doing 1 vehicle, but I suppose you could put it in a box and just blank the port after.
When I bought mine it was running very rich - turned out the jets were swapped. I expect someone took them all out to clean them then put them back without checking. Then I made the mistake of not screwing the main jet in tight enough so was chasing my tail for a while.
 
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