Good morning. I am rewiring the Series 2a with a new harness. So far so good. Main question - I have an alternator and no dynamo, but all the wiring diagrams I have seen (and I have seen plenty!) all show a VR/Dynamo v. Alt configuration. Question - knowing the Alt has an internal VR, is there any harm in following the wiring diagram and hooking up the voltage regulator in addition to the alternator? I would like to bypass the VR altogether, but the wiring harness is set up for a VR and the diagrams are pretty easy to follow if I go that route (knowing I won't need to wire up a Dynamo as I don't have/need one). Thanks!
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Voltage Reg with Alternator?
- Thread starter khrabe
- Start date
hairbear69
Overdrive!
Hi I'm not sure but i think the gauges need a constant regulated voltage and the out put from an alternator is not consistant 12v can be as high as 14v so I would say use a VR but there will be somebody along who can either confirm this or I could be wrong but good luck the loom is the next big item on my project so i will be watching the answers as well. Just read Big sandy's post and i thought you meant the little one be hind the dash panel
Hey @hairbear69 , could be me got the wrong end of the sharp pointy thing....
I'm thinking the regulator box on the engine side of the bulkhead?
I think there is still a voltage regulator in the dash for the gauges either way. We converted a 2a to an alternator about 25 years ago, simply because we had an alternator and fittings, and couldn't afford a new dynamo... And I do recall the regulator in the dash when I was digging around trying to find what was blowing fuses (which was the self park on the wiper... 1970 2a) some time after.
(I, like a fool, checked the rego of that 2a on the dvla database, its still out there and 'taxed'. Wish we never sold it on. Though its black now, it was ex gpo and bright red when we had it. But I digress)
I'm thinking the regulator box on the engine side of the bulkhead?
I think there is still a voltage regulator in the dash for the gauges either way. We converted a 2a to an alternator about 25 years ago, simply because we had an alternator and fittings, and couldn't afford a new dynamo... And I do recall the regulator in the dash when I was digging around trying to find what was blowing fuses (which was the self park on the wiper... 1970 2a) some time after.
(I, like a fool, checked the rego of that 2a on the dvla database, its still out there and 'taxed'. Wish we never sold it on. Though its black now, it was ex gpo and bright red when we had it. But I digress)
Assuming we are talking about the dynamo regulator on the engine side of the bulkhead, it won't work with an alternator, but you could attach the alternator wires to it in such a way that it is bypassed but appears, at a glance, to be connected. David
It's easy enough to 'wire through' the regulator box without it doing anything to spoil the circuit with an alternator. A google search can lead you down that path.
One thing to be aware of, though, is the wiring may not be up to snuff depending on the alternator output. It will physically work, but may breakdown (burn) if the alternator decides it needs to output more amps than the wiring can handle.
If you have an early 2A you will find your fuel gauge reads backwards due to the earth polarity swap also. Mine does lol.
One thing to be aware of, though, is the wiring may not be up to snuff depending on the alternator output. It will physically work, but may breakdown (burn) if the alternator decides it needs to output more amps than the wiring can handle.
If you have an early 2A you will find your fuel gauge reads backwards due to the earth polarity swap also. Mine does lol.
Do away with the voltage regulator and run one nice fat new wire to the starter solenoid and another smaller one up to your ign light.
You could if you wish as Sandy suggested leave the voltage regulator in place so it looks original but I would not have any power going through it, just a source of more troubles.
You could if you wish as Sandy suggested leave the voltage regulator in place so it looks original but I would not have any power going through it, just a source of more troubles.
Series 2 forum has some nice diagrams showing how to use the old voltage regulator box as a junction box when converting to alternator.
You may have to join the forum to see them costs nothing.
You may have to join the forum to see them costs nothing.
Attachments
That's the sort of thing I had in mind. David
Edit: No trouble seeing diagrams, and I'm not on S2 forum.
robwlondon
Posting Guru
Agree Kevm, new wires, new connections, decent size for 70A not the old 30A dynamo wiring. As the alternator reg is internal it outputs wrong if there are poor connections. Gauges are regulated by 10V reg behind dash, leave that alone.
Dave thats because I removed the link and copied there diagrams to my PC and uploaded them.
Series 1 2 & 3
Big Landy Fan
I have a bone to pick about the 3rd wiring diagram.
The ammeter is installed incorrectly.
It should be installed in the black wire running from the battery to the solenoid and not in the brown wire coming from the alternator.
Wonder if it is because ammeter only goes upto 30A most people take them out of use ie two leads on one terminal.
Take it up with Series 2 forum as I said there drawings not mine but many have successfully converted to alternator without making new harness.
Take it up with Series 2 forum as I said there drawings not mine but many have successfully converted to alternator without making new harness.
If it was between the battery and solenoid then the full current of the starter motor would be passing through it which is not desirable!
Ideally it would be placed between the battery connection to the solenoid and the other brown wires...
Ideally it would be placed between the battery connection to the solenoid and the other brown wires...
Once you fit an alternator I don't think there is anywhere you can tap into to get sensible readings, best put it in the box under the bench with the voltage regulator and the dynamo and fit a voltmeter.
I think the issue is mainly that most decent quality ammeters that read above 30A and that will fit comfortably in the dash are quite pricey, and most alternators can give out at least 30A. A lot of Chinese 60A ones out there, but Im not sure that I trust them to be honest (no real reason, just that I dont like the idea of large currents passing through something made to the lowest price and manufactured with poor quality control) and anyway, they would probably not look 'period'.
I would expect there was some discussion about those diagrams with regard to the specifications of the alternator and the ammeter on the series forum...
I would expect there was some discussion about those diagrams with regard to the specifications of the alternator and the ammeter on the series forum...
Series 1 2 & 3
Big Landy Fan
Yes you are quite right, the ammeter is best binned if an alternator is installed.
If one is fitted all it will do is insert a low resistance in the cable to the battery and consequently reduce the ability of the alternator to charge the battery as well as it should.
If one is fitted all it will do is insert a low resistance in the cable to the battery and consequently reduce the ability of the alternator to charge the battery as well as it should.
Well, the resistance is very minimal and that is where they re designed to fit (to measure the current flowing into and out of the battery), just not the current to the starter motor!
Series 1 2 & 3
Big Landy Fan
Yes, I agree.
I have ammeter fitted to one of my LRs (not by me) and it does very little except tell me a current is flowing one way or another.
Apart from when the starter motor has just taken a large chunk of charge from the battery, most of the time the needle is stationary just above zero as the alternator manages the charging system perfectly.
I much prefer a voltmeter which, after interpretation, gives a far better understanding of the condition of the battery.
In an ideal world I would fit both. I like the immediacy of knowing that I have charge flowing either in or out of the battery, but I also like having a voltmeter which gives a better indication of the health of the battery.
I have two digital voltmeters (one on each battery) and no ammeter though, as it wasnt really worth the additional wiring, complication and expense of adding one.
I did consider one of these, but decided against at the time;
I have two digital voltmeters (one on each battery) and no ammeter though, as it wasnt really worth the additional wiring, complication and expense of adding one.
I did consider one of these, but decided against at the time;
MICTUNING Digital Multimeter, DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Testing Gauge Monitor LCD Blue Backlight Digital Display with 100A/75mV External Shunt: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
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