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waxoyl...DIY advice?

Andrew G

Shifting Up
Any advice out there on DIY waxoyl on a 1996 Defender 300 TDI? What's the best prep? or is it just a case of slap it on everywhere? Does it have to be sprayed on? etc etc etc? :(
 
Pay for someone to do it .After you have done this job yourself you will know what i'm talking about .
You are also going to get people any time now going on about guns and fantastic compressors . Thats fine if you have other uses for a compressor , not worth buying one just to waxoyl a chassis .

The chassis needs cleaning off throughly .Then it wants the rust scraping ,rubbed, wire brushed,grinded off .Then wash it down again to remove any left over crap . Let it dry out throughly and then you can get ready to waxoyl it .Waxoyl has a pump spray thing of there own . Some can be good some can be bad . Throw loads of it at the chassis and get it into everywhere . Inject the chassis using the already in situee handy little holes .
This is going to take you a few days including prep and doing the work .In that time you will have bashed your hands that many times they will ache and probably have cuts on them . The waxoyl gets all over you , in your hair on your face all over your clothes and all over the drive . Remember to put some tarp or something down and then drive over it .
It will look good when it is done . I've done it once and i'm not doing it again .The nice man in the garage up the road can do it for £100 notes . Considering i spent about £50 on materials anyway and it took me loads of hours to do then £100 isn't bad at all .
:)
 
I've done this job myself twice and now waxoyl falls into the same category as sandblasting. As Laninlandy said...

Pay for someone to do it .

He covered most of what you need to know.

Rent a steam cleaner to clean the chassis. You are teasing yourself trying to do it with a high pressure sprayer. I have a Karcher that pumps water out at something like 140psi and even that thing doesn't do as good a job as the cheapest steam cleaner.

Any dirt and grime left on the chassis will come back to haunt you.

You need to get the front wheels up on ramps when cleaning the front and then again the same for the back.

The chassis needs to dry thoroughly before you apply the Waxoyl.

Vanish doesn't remove Waxoyl stains from clothes.
Get hold of one of those paper suits that the spray painters wear.
Cover your skin to the best of your ability.
Wear glases or goggles.
It burns like hell when it gets into your eyes. If you do get it in your eyes, the only stuff that helps is milk followed by Optrex eye drops.

The best way to remove the stuff from your skin is Tetrosyl Gun Wash Thinners.

The first time I did it, I used a Schultz gun on a compressor and lost a lot of product into the air.
The second time, I used the Waxoyl spray thing that attaches to the waxoyl can. You can buy it from your local motor factors. That worked much better, was much more accurate and economical.

This time of year, you need a mate with a heat gun around keep the Waxoyl liquid. Time spent getting the can ready (and keeping it in tip condition while you are applying the stuff) will make things easier for you down the line.

Would I do it again? Not unless I really had to.
Would I recommend the product? Hell yes - look at my "Can Waxoyl last 30 years?" thread...
 
If you want to DIY it then the basic rules are :

- vehicle needs to be as high as you can SAFELY achieve - there are a lot of nooks and crannies on a Defender.
- rent a steam cleaner or HOT high pressure washer
- after blasting away all loose and not so loose material then take a wire brush to any significant corosion left and use a neutralising product such as Jenolite.
- get the Waxoyl up to room temperature to allow it to run effectively
- ideally you need a compressor and appropriate gun to apply the wax to the underbody avoiding all brake discs, exhaust and driveshafts
- for the cavity injection you really cannot do it without a compressor and have to accept some compromise unless you have specialist lances
- do not just pump gallons of Waxoyl into cavities as it will pancake which undermines adhesion, it is designed to be most effective with thin application. Remember that however good the underbody stuff looks the hardest work is done by the cavity wax so give it plenty of time to get it right.
- never drill holes
- a professional with a lift and all the equipment will take about 5 hours so give yourself plenty of time.
- buy a disposable overall, a light that you can easily carry or wear on your head and a swim cap for your hair (not a fashion item but worth it as Waxoyl really doesn't wash out well) and wear a mask.
- inspect it every year not least of you are off roading
........or get it done by a professional who knows what they are doing(vested interest).

Good luck (nb repeat safety first in supporting the vehicle)

Nick
 
Hi, I had been thinking of having a go myself but this thread is putting me off. Does anyone out there know any place in the Cambridge area that does a good professional job? Thanks.:)
 
Did mine in the summer,

used:

1) large plastic sheet to park on
2) paper suit
3) pair of goggles
4) latex gloves
5) 2 large tins of waxoyl
6) jet washer
7) 70 w electric spray gun
8) white spirit
9) large bucket of hotwater.
10) good quality filter mask and i mean good quality not those paper dust masks (I already had this)

Jet washed and blasted underneath. Left for a few days to dry out. then parked it up over sheet. heated the waxoyl up in the hot water so it was very thin and added whitespirit, crawlled underneath and sparyed away, then sprayed in the holes etc... cleaned up and binned the suit, goggles, gloves plastic sheet.

Seems to be ok, would I do it again? no effing way, sticks like s&*t to a blanket, get some one else to do it is my advice!!
 
For Neil specifically, Rustmaster are not too far from Cambridge. As I mentioned in my DIY post in this thread I have an interest in it but don't want to try and sell it to you in a forum I've joined for other reasons.

Better you check out Rustmaster and anyone else who does it by search means or whatever. Competition is a good thing and ideally good customers and good businesses are bettter off because of it.

Cheers

Nick
:)
 
For Neil specifically, Rustmaster are not too far from Cambridge. As I mentioned in my DIY post in this thread I have an interest in it but don't want to try and sell it to you in a forum I've joined for other reasons.

Better you check out Rustmaster and anyone else who does it by search means or whatever. Competition is a good thing and ideally good customers and good businesses are bettter off because of it.

Cheers

Nick
:)


Thanks Nick. I will check them out. And thanks again for the advice.
 
As I mentioned in my DIY post in this thread I have an interest in it but don't want to try and sell it to you in a forum I've joined for other reasons.
Nick
:)

OK, fair enough, but if someone hypothetically wanted a Land Rover 90 waxoyled, then what sort of cost are we looking at? The Rustmaster website mentions the underbody cleaning but then gives the impression the wax treatment is carried out immediately afterwards. Is this the case or is some means used to dry out the moisture from the box sections which is where Land Rovers usually rust from -inside out?
 
Used waxoil for years on many many cars. This stuff is better.If you can`t afford this stuff and go ahead with black waxoil, a good tip is to spray your areas of impact like wheelarches with waxoil and then spray over them with black Stonechip. This will give you a slightly harder finish that won`t wash off.
Alex
 

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OK, fair enough, but if someone hypothetically wanted a Land Rover 90 waxoyled, then what sort of cost are we looking at? The Rustmaster website mentions the underbody cleaning but then gives the impression the wax treatment is carried out immediately afterwards. Is this the case or is some means used to dry out the moisture from the box sections which is where Land Rovers usually rust from -inside out?

I paid £350 at Waxworks in Morpeth. The vehicle was very dirty - box sections were mostly full of mud - and was pressure washed clean first and blown dry. Following day the underside and chassis was sprayed with black Waxoyl. Clear Waxoyl then sprayed into all doors and frames, bulkhead, and all the other nooks. 25 litres of Waxoyl used. Seemed a very genuine bloke and certainly saved a lot of dirty work. I reckon this is good value if it keeps the rot at bay.
 
Thanks for all this advice!!!! Definitely NOT going to take this on, sounds horrible... Any recommenations in Brighton / Horsham / Redhill areas (Sussex / Surrey?)
 
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