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Waxoyl - how often.

petefletcher

petefletcher

Offroader
My 1999 110 TD5 HT was professionally Waxolyed when I got it last year. There was no rot in the chassis/bulkhead/crossmember at that time.

How often does the treatment need checking/repeating, and can proper Waxoyling keep rot at bay indefinately?

The truck doesn't go offroad as it's used for towing.

Thanks for any wisdom out there
 
Depends how dirty you get the truck really , ive had mine just over 12 months now , done a lot of off roading , and a lot of jet washing of the chassis ...needs waxoyling again this summer !
 
pak967 said:
Depends how dirty you get the truck really , ive had mine just over 12 months now , done a lot of off roading , and a lot of jet washing of the chassis ...needs waxoyling again this summer !
Click to expand...

Just out of interest,is yours a diy job or do you get it done professionally?

I agree that the amount of off roading done is a big factor.

Andy.
 
I have always done my Land Rovers annually on a nice hot summers day. Roll a Wilko decorators sheet under it, put on a paper disposable overall and spray liberally in every oraface on the vehicle.

Then every six weeks to two months I spray a mixture of engine oil and petrol (The petrol allows the mixture to be sprayed out of an old Mr mussle bottle, the petrol then evaporates) onto the visible parts underneath to add a little extra protection.

Works a treat. ;)
 
As someone having to weld up a vehicle that has never seen a drop of rust preventative in its life may I commend you on preserving trucks so that by the time they reach pennyless b*****ds like myself :fiddle: they stand a chance of not been completely shot. Its my goal in life to be able to purchase a brand new Land Rover and when I do I'll cake it in waxoyl and owt else that will stop the rust fungus. Good on ya' fellas :boots:
 
Going to get my 110 done in the next couple of weeks at JE Engineering for £190. Sounds good to me and they do all of the suspect places, including the door frames.

I know it's the wrong time of year but SWMBO pointed out the drive was being retarmaced soon and any dripping Waxoyl on it would result in marital disharmony :banging:
 
two1/4jim said:
Its my goal in life to be able to purchase a brand new Land Rover and when I do I'll cake it in waxoyl and owt else that will stop the rust fungus. Good on ya' fellas :boots:
Click to expand...

Mate, thats just what I did. I worked my way up from the bottom and two years ago in March bought my first new Land Rover. :p

Reflecting on the decision I should have bought a really good 300TDi and spec'd it up instead. :rolleyes:
 
Any advice out there on DIY waxoyl on a 1996 Defender 300 TDI? What's the best prep? or is it just a case of slap it on everywhere? Does it have to be sprayed?
 
I'd have a look at the professional Waxoylers sites, they usually describe their process, then go and do likewise. You'll probably find you need a lot more wax than you think - 25 litres or so.
 
I recall a discussion about waxoyl on another group some years ago, and the debated benefits of mixing the waxoyl with clean engine oil...

A few people said that the benefits were that the waxoyl penetrated into cracks etc better and also that the surface"creep" of the waxoyl was better so giving better cover in hard-to-reach spots..

Used engine oil is a no-no because it contains all kinds of sulphites and combustion products which might promote corrosion...

I used 50/50 to treat an old van of mine years ago, and its still pretty good now, but since I dont have anythig to compare it to, I cant say its better or worse (but it would certainly be a bit cheaper than using 100% waxoyl)..

Anyone else tried it or care to comment?
MikeA
 
Probably your best bet is to get it done professionally the first time so all the internal sections get treated properly, then re-apply periodically DIY to maintain the protection. Chassis rot from the inside out, as do door frames and bulkhead door pillars; I'd be more concerned about the bits I couldn't see rather than surface rust on the outside.
P.S. If the vehicle is a few years old and already rusting, I'd save my money instead and just fit a galv chassis when it fails the MOT in a big way. It's only worth investing serious money into rustproofing a relatively new vehicle where the rust hasn't got hold yet.
 
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