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General Wheel/hub bearing advice


Big Landy Fan
Slacken road wheel nuts.
Jack up vehicle and place on axle stand.
Remove road wheel.
Remove either brake calliper from the axle,or the brake drum from the hub.
Remove the halfshaft.Be ready to catch any oil!!!
Now you should see the retaining nuts held by the lock washer.
Knock back the lock washer.
Remove the first nut.
Remove the second nut.
Catch the outer bearing before it falls to the ground,you might need to waggle the hub for this bearing to fall out.
Pull the hub off.

To remove the outer bearing race.

Clean up the inside of the hub,at this stage it doesn't need to be perfect.
Lay the hub face down on a piece of wood.
You should be able to see the two cut outs in the hub that allows you to use a drift on the outer race to drift the race out.
Drift the race out working from side to side then all the way round.
Turn the hub over and do the other race.
Clean everything up and read my post on adjusting wheel bearings.

You will need
A hub nut spanner.Craddocks or Paddocks sell them.
You will also need a new oil seal and depending on the year a hub gasket.

I'mm assuming the hub is off and both the bearings removed and the new/clean outer tracks are fitted into the hub.

First thing.
Pack the bearings with a good quality grease.
Now the manufacturers say don't pack,just put a cover onto the rollers.Well the manufacturer is there to SELL bearings.

To pack the bearing.
Hold the bearing with the roller track in your hand.Tend to push the rollers away from the track.Push grease into the back of the rollers until you have grease at the other end of the rollers.Continue round the bearing until all the rollers are full of grease.Drop the bearing into the track.
Fit the oil seal.

Oil Seal.
Now if you Off Road a lot take a good look at the seal fitment.Can you get two seals into the place where there should be only one?If so fit two seals.One to retain the grease,fitted correctly.The other to stop water ingress when you wade,this seal is fitted the "wrong" way.
Some people used to fit the seal the wrong way to stop the water ingress,I can't comment on that trick as I've never tried it.
Please be careful when you do this,It's your fault if it goes wrong!!!!!

I'll digress.....
When I rallyed my Imp.I was knocking front wheel bearings out every rally.That was less that 200 miles.
We had a visit to work from the Wynns rep.I told him my problem.He went to his car and producee a small jar off additive."Mix that with your grease and you not have any more problems"
I did and I had no more problems.I still have that grease,I use it only on my car.
So a talk to Winns might help.

So you have the inner bearing and oil seal fitted.
Pack the other bearing.
Put the hub onto the stub axle and place the other bearing into place.
Then the spacer.
Now the nut.

We are now going to set the bearing WITHOUT a Dti!!!!

You will have the choice of either a box spanner with a tommy bar through or a socket.For starters I would suggest that those with a socket use an extension with a hole through so you can use a tommy bar.
Tighten the nut up.Not tight but enough to stop the hub turning and spread the grease.
Now back off the nut about an eighth of a turn.all the time turning the hub.
The hub should turn nice and easily without any percievable end movement.
Fit the lock washer then the lock nut.
The lock nut needs to be tight but not over tight.See my later comments.
Bend the lock washer in on one flat of the inner nut and out onto a flat of the lock nut.

When I worked at the Ford Main Dealer I worked on Transits.I think the front bearing nut was 1 1/16 AF.
I used to use a 3/8 drive speed brace to set the bearings.The speed brace just nipped the bearings at the right pressure.
Now when I do my hubs.I generally use just my water pump pliers to do all the adjusting.Very rarely do I use a socket!!!

Get out.
I've given this in good faith.
If you do it wrong,don't blame me!!!!!
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