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Which 1 shall I try next?

Alice

Big Landy Fan
I have a new fuel filter & the tank has enough diesel.
Although I've almost perfected the art of restarting stalled Landy via the lift-pump & opening up the nut on the DPS it's still starving when under load after going up hill.
My butt protruding from the bonnet is not to everyones taste first thing on a morning... especially when it's decided to stop across a busy junction.
Driving is risky as there's little correlation between accellerator & speed produced once the engine begins to die, vehicle darts about like some furtive wild animal. :eek:

Someone suggested it could be a vapour lock as opposed to air getting in the system. ie: fuel turning into gas before it reaches the engine along the feed pipes. Which would cause the same effect perhaps.

If it's fuel pipes that should be changed next which are the best to fit, copper or some kind of plastic?
 
Does it happen when the engine is cold or only when hot? Am guessing it is only when it is hot if you think it is a vapour lock.

You could get the fuel lines blown out "backwards" with compressed air. Might be a blockage in the tank.
 
You have replaced the filters...(though, I'd be tempted to do them again..you never know, not unknown for them to fail) and I think my next item on the list would be to remove the lift pipe from the tank and see if that's blocked (or holed) that would cause fuel starvation as well. Check the filler cap breather isnt blocked. To me it sounds like one of two things, air being drawn in to the fuel lines, or air starvation causing a vacuum in the lower end of the system.

If you decide to replace the fuel lines, go for original equipment...but as already suggested, get them blown out before you replace them. It may just be dirt.
 
you say you have a new fuel filter, is ther only one?
check the condition of the new filter you put in, have you had a bad fill of diesel with loads of gunge in it, if so it may have blocked the old filter (causing the problem in the first place) andd the new filter (causing the problem to occur again).

If fuel is clean, then as has been said, check all the pipes for blockage or leakage (in).
What sort of lift pump is there, and is that working properly? Could there be a fault in a non return valve in it, that allows normal fuel pumping but won't cope under the excess load?
 
Do you know what I did in this situation when I was working ??

I would remove the fuel tank and send it away to be cleaned out inside.
Then I would renew ALL fuel pipes and olives as well as new filters.
Also I would renew {again if necessary] the rubber O ring seal on the lift pump.

Metal or plastic fuel pipes ?

Somewhae this vehicle is either.
Sucking air.
Has a blockage in the fuel system.

Another thought.
Have you recently renewed the fuel filler cap?
Have you tried driving without the fuel filler cap ?
Have you tried removing the fuel filler cap as soon as the vehicle stops ?
 
If it`s happened since the new filter it could be you`ve drawn air into IP. Air can come in at filter assembly . Check tightness of everything. Next place is where pipes join fuel tank. There may be an inspection cover.

Then it`s on to the fuel pipes themselves. they can rust if steel and you get a pinhole drawing air. A vapour lock can be caused by tank breather pipe being kinked or blocked. If this was the case you would hear the suck as you took fuel filler cap off. Caps should have a little pin breather hole in them but it can get blocked.

It wont be much Alice......hopefully:D

Alex
 
Hi, sorry its off subject slightly,but do you know size and thread/type of fittings on fuel tank as ive just fitted new tank on my 110 refurb and want to change fittings. Can you recomend somewhere to get them from in the midlands?
 
It's a 2.5 n/a so I thought the advice on opening fuel filler cap only applied to turbo engines. I haven't tried that myself as yet but it's bound to happen again tomorrow so I'll let you know if that's the case.

New fuel filter fitted 8-1-07. Filled tank with diesel next day. Prior to Christmas I had filled up on the last dregs at the local filling station. :( & had let it run too low on fuel.
Old filter was checked when Toppa visited, it didn't seem too bad.. small bits of dust in the bottom.
Fuel filter changed before that in Dec 05. Nut on top of fuel filter still won't undo. Filter mounting now shakes as one of the bolts to the bulkhead bracket came undone instead.
The gauze, metal net thing in the fuel filler pipe looks ok but I haven't wiped it out or anything.

There is only the 1 filter, no sedementer or glass jar thingie.

A New tank was fitted in Aug 05. (wrong 1 arrived from factors so had a bit of a wait for the correct fit) Was a bit of a pig fitting the sensors back in.. just insert & twist to lock in place so worry to begin with incase it was going to leak from there.. hence I tended not to fill her up.
Not sure if old one actually did leak or if it were just the fact that nut was loose on pipe from fuel filter to engine. I discovered after having tank fitted that was probably the cause of the strong smell of diesel when reversing. Gullible is me :)

Of all the times engine has stopped the symptoms were similar.
First we thought it was the connection to the fuel cut off solonoid.
2nd the solonoid itself, so drove without it ok & then changed it.
& so on..

Lift pump was looked at and said to be ok. I'll post a few pics of various bits in a mo.
Advice on DPS was.. if it had water in the fuel and air lock then the pump would be flucked as it stood for a couple of days and rust would seize it.
We're hoping it won't be that which needs to be replaced as all the front was off to do the cam belt 1-8-06 & it'll be as expensive again as only way to get at the DPS is from the front!

I am thinking that this problem began after the new tank was fitted. Pipework must be pretty old.

It happens when engine hot or cold. Most favourite place to stop is Bredhurst, a quaint hamlet 4 & half miles up the road.
Bends & speed bumps bother me too incase the slopping about of fuel is causing the splutter. Can almost keep her going if I maintain high revs but that's difficult with the varients needed in town traffic driving/road gradients, passenger load combinations. So it needs fixing really. Big Jims lift pump under load seems to fit discription too.
 
Advice on DPS was.. if it had water in the fuel and air lock then the pump would be flucked as it stood for a couple of days and rust would seize it.
too.

It needn't be water that causes the problem theer are various diesel bugs that form a (usually brown or black) sludge that can block filters.
Happens on boats where diesel has been left in the tank over wnter, blocks filetr, engine starves of fuel.
 
From the connections on fuel tank to IP. If fuels getting out anywhere then air is getting in. Check for signs of leakage under truck. If you suspect dirt or water, take a sample from filter drain plug and put in a clear glass. Water or dirt will separate after a few hours. Sometimes seized bleed screws on filter assembly are not proper ones...check them and little O rings on them.
Alex
 
I'll leave the house with a needlework kit in the morn. Need to clean the lift pump & bits too.
Listening to my Landy suck whilst traffic passes me by will be interesting if not suc cessful & the cap needs a bit more vasaline anyway.
It takes the skin off my knuckles trying to open in when cold. :(

Next I'll try blowing the pipes.. well actually it's best if I ask mechanic to do that, I'm sure he can do a better job.

Thanks for all your advice to date.
 
Ho hum... stopped within 5 mins of home this a.m.
Had remembered needle & at the last min sent kid for RAC card.. forgot phone & padlock key to fuel cap.
Nice man in a Disco offered to help but he looked too clean, all dressed for the office so I declined.
I messed up the priming procedure.. too limp wristed & didn't co-ordinate nut tightening with keeping the lever on lift pump at top position, so flattened battery.

On the plus side. A gentleman let me use his phone (engaged) then he got his employee to bring the works van to jump or tow me home.
Result.. engine started and if I want some pipe he's got a load left over from when he had his replaced recently.

Our lift pump is ST762M
 

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A vapour lock can be caused by tank breather pipe being kinked or blocked. If this was the case you would hear the suck as you took fuel filler cap off. Caps should have a little pin breather hole in them but it can get blocked.
Alex
2 morning trips a mile each & no stops yet. I do think that men are likely to be better at tightening nuts than me or the sprogs. This would perhaps account for it occuring more often when I've removed the air.
Took fuel cap off all the same but no sucking sound to be heard.
Cleaned & rubbed vasaline into metal. The padlock, latch, hinge & cap itself.
Poked the 2 pin holes on cap & they were ok & cleared a small cutout on the fold inside fuel cap. A bit of rust was in the rim & can see some rust in the tube sitting above the mesh. At least that bit is better to the touch now.
Mechanic will look sometime next wk if I've not blown pipes & checked connections for broken olives & wotnot before then.
 
Oh dear.. That was 12 hours ago.. Do you think she made it? :D
Yes thanks :)
Took torch & extra bodies just incase so I could have blamed the extra weight on them if it hadn't made it up a hill ;)
I'd have been in to log the stops otherwise.
Thing now is.. do I still get the pipes done or put it off until after the next time it stalls?
 
Cleaning the fuel cap & making sure the pin holes are clear may have helped... famous last words but I've not had it stall again since. :)
 

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