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Wiring for Auxiliary Fittings

Hitchhiker42

Hitchhiker42

Trekker
Site Donor
Hi,
A question for any auto-electricians out there.
I'm fitting USB sockets and 12V sockets in the back of my 110 conversion. There will also be a couple of light switches for the annex light and awning light just inside the back door.
I/m thinking of running cables though a 20mm round plastic conduit with spare pull cords in case anything needs replacing down the line. The wiring will be concealed behind panelling hence the pull cords.
Q: Can everything be run through the same conduit?
There will be x1 USB pair (media charging and rechargeable torch), x2 12v pairs (one running the fridge/freezer and one spare), x2 LED light switch wires, x1 rear camera pair. That would be x12 wires in total running through the one conduit. The only heavyish load will be the fridge/freezer.
Any risk of overheating or other problems if multiple cables are concentrated in the one conduit? Wise to separate switch cables from power cables or just split the runs up to give a bit more 'breathing space' in the tubes? I've got room to run more than one conduit if need be. Am I being overly cautious?
Advice gratefully received.
 
I don’t think there should be an issue, provided your conduit runs reasonably straight with no sharp bends. Maybe collect all the wires together that you know you will be using and see how much free room you have in the 20mm conduit.
 
It doesnt sound like you will be drawing very much current through any of the wiring, so should be fine.
Some of the USB sockets transmit large amounts of RFI. I had to swap some and get rid of others to eliminate interference on both the AM/FM bands and it also affected the DAB receiver. This is because of poor design of the switched mode power supplies and inadequate shielding. Its possible that some RFI could be returned via the 12v supply to the sockets, especially if the supply wires are quite long. Just be aware if you experience issues with radio reception etc.
 
I wouldn’t pack the cables too tight as you could have a problem down the line pulling just one set out without the whole lot moving and breaking a connection at the end .

I like the split bendy conduit from 12v planet and they do a range of fastenings for it as well.
 
Use the split conduit, much easier to make changes. I too don't see a problem. Agree with Mikeau, those USB power supplies can be very noisy. Run a decent earth back to the bulkhead/panel, don't rely on the body panels or chassis. You can use a large size for the main part (say 20mm) and poke smaller sizes (6mm) in when you run off some wires.
 
Thanks for the info guys.
Split conduit sounds like a good idea. Hadn't consider that option.
I'll keep the USB cabling separate. There is no radio or speakers going in the rear so not a problem with the wiring I've just started. However, this has got me wondering if I might come across a problem in the front cabin.
I'd originally planned to have a USB socket on the centre console. You can see what I mean from the photo below. This puts the USB socket very close to the Head Unit and where the DAB/FM aerial cable will connect into it. Wondering if this can be shielded in any way. Plus USB cables will run past two of the speakers I'm installing. Wondering if that will cause interference.
3 2.jpeg
 
My experience with the USB power supplies is that its the 5v output that's the problem, its "dirty" and causes problems with anything sensitive that's using it.
 
I didn't. They get loads of use charging phones and other things so they are really handy, but I wanted to power my phone and play music and that's impossible.
 
Some are better quality than others, but its almost impossible to know until you have bought and tried them! I would certainly avoid the ones with plastic cases in favour of the metal bodied ones.
 
Arrgh - I've got plastic marine grade fittings. Every socket & light switch is matching Blue Sea Systems brand - not cheap. Can't afford to change everything now.
The one in the dash centre console won't get used much as I have another fitted to the cubby box - as the mobiles will be stored in a top tray in the cubby. Perhaps the separation will be enough to avoid interference? Having said that - I've got two high level speakers and a bulkhead mounted sub-woofer going in behind the seats so there will be media stuff close by. I could move the DAP to the front dash rather than having it permanently mounted to the bulkhead behind the seats. That would take it further away from the cubby USB socket.
I think I'm just going to have to see how much of a problem this is once everything is in place and maybe swap them out later if need be and when funds allow.
 
Hitchhiker42 said:
Arrgh - I've got plastic marine grade fittings. Every socket & light switch is matching Blue Sea Systems brand - not cheap. Can't afford to change everything now.
The one in the dash centre console won't get used much as I have another fitted to the cubby box - as the mobiles will be stored in a top tray in the cubby. Perhaps the separation will be enough to avoid interference? Having said that - I've got two high level speakers and a bulkhead mounted sub-woofer going in behind the seats so there will be media stuff close by. I could move the DAP to the front dash rather than having it permanently mounted to the bulkhead behind the seats. That would take it further away from the cubby USB socket.
I think I'm just going to have to see how much of a problem this is once everything is in place and maybe swap them out later if need be and when funds allow.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt worry. If its marine grade and was reassuringly expensive then they may be fine.
Just bear it in mind and if you get any issues with radio reception etc then just remove the power from them and see if the issue goes away.
 
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