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Wiring work light.

I'm planning on fitting one like that too - was going to include an internal switch aswell though so I could isolate it if needed on occassions (to stop jokers switching it on when your not about).

If you are going for the usual single 55 Watt bulb a 5A fuse should do the trick and give better protection (lamp should draw about 4.5A), however if this blows then go up to a 10A.
 
I have a work light with a switch on the back of it, would it be OK to wire this directly to the aux battery with a 10amp inline fuse?

7.5 amp should be fine for a single 55w bulb. Are you switching the lamp remotely from the cab, externally from the lamp or coupling it into the reverse light circuit - or a combination?
 
7.5 amp should be fine for a single 55w bulb. Are you switching the lamp remotely from the cab, externally from the lamp or coupling it into the reverse light circuit - or a combination?
I have a switch on my mud dash for the work light, so I might use that, but do I need a relay with the Carling switch. It won't be wired to come on when reversing, but want it wired into my aux battery as I am off camping at the end of the month, and want some light for BBQ'ing, so might just do the direct route for now, and wire it into my switch on the dash later on, when I have more time.
 
What you could do is take a feed from your reversing light, one from your dashboard switch and run them to a two way switch, take a third wire from that switch to 'trigger' the relay (which gets its power from the second battery) and you have a selectable 'Auto - Manual' work/reverse light.

Works for me :).
 
What you could do is take a feed from your reversing light, one from your dashboard switch and run them to a two way switch, take a third wire from that switch to 'trigger' the relay (which gets its power from the second battery) and you have a selectable 'Auto - Manual' work/reverse light.

Works for me :).
You lost me at "What":D, sounds far to complicated for what I need, really just want a light that works off the aux battery for now, and eventually to be wired up to the switch on the dash, as this is how it was wired before the electrics were replaced, but it took the feed from the cig lighter, rather than off the aux battery, as I want to keep everything seperate from now on, too much hasstle tracing faults when you start to add thing to the original wiring loom.
 
Aux battery to fuse then to switch then to rear light.

IIRC you need some kind of indication that illuminates when the rear light is on.
Either a switch that illuminates when turned on or a separate panel light. It's so you can't go down the road forgetting you have left your rear light on.
 
Even if you only do a temporary wiring job for your camping trip, I would still use an internal switch, for the reasons Donkey3 gave.


I fitted a pair of Ring Micro Cruise-lite lamps under the rear bumper on my Range Rover.

I wired them through an On-Off-On Rocker Switch, using a couple of Relays.

This enabled me to use them either manually, with the reversing lights, or permanantly off.


I've got the same lamps to fit to my Discovery 2 (if the weather ever improves :( )

I'm using a (modified) OEM switch, so will have them manually switched only -

[ame="https://www.lrukforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1374451&postcount=4"]https://www.lrukforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1374451&postcount=4[/ame]



On the back of my 110 (and the front ;) ) I've got a pair of Hella Matador Worklamps

Which I've 2-way switched, so that I can switch them On/Off from the dash or from a switch just inside the back door.


I have diagrams, if anyone is interested ??


.
 
i have small fuse box fitted behind a small panel on the dash it has a direct feed from the battery and feeds 4 switches working light top spots and front spots the last switch is a separet feed for my glowplugs [through a relay]all switches have there own fuse.
the fuse box came from wireing solutions about £3 and it all works fine,i hope this helps you:)
 
I'm interested in your diagrams. I've just bought my genuine Land Rover work light (with no instructions) and I wanted to switch it on/off manually, or with the reverse lights. I plan to get another OEM switch and modify it like yours. If you could keep the diagrams relatively simple, it would be appreciated, because I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to electrical diagrams.
 
Carling Tech switches are rated at 20A, so you won't need a relay unless you use more than four of those lights (each draws 5A at 12V, being 60W).

Being external (wet) a fuse is a good idea, and the internal switch is a must. To make sure I couldn't make the mistake of driving on road with the lamp on, I wired its feed to the vehicle's light switch, using the spare terminal on the main switch that is live only when side lights are selected, and off when the external lights are off or head lights are on (I never drive with just side lights - all or nothing). Defenders should have a similar spare position - that's why you see some Defenders with the side lights off when the head lights are on; they've been connected incorrectly to that terminal.
 
I'm interested in your diagrams. I've just bought my genuine Land Rover work light (with no instructions) and I wanted to switch it on/off manually, or with the reverse lights. I plan to get another OEM switch and modify it like yours. If you could keep the diagrams relatively simple, it would be appreciated, because I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to electrical diagrams.


On my 110, I've wired my rear worklamps (double switched), as below -

WorkLamps.jpg

I'm currently using modified Arcoelectric DPDT rocker switches from RS Components (they only need to be SPDT, but I wanted the wider switch bodies of the DPDT switches), but these will be replaced by Eaton Modular Rocker Switches (Durite, from VWP) if I can't work out how to do the same switching with Land Rover 2002 Dash switches.


On my old Range Rover I used a Double Pole On-Off-On Eaton Modular Rocker Switch (from VWP), wired as below -

Work Light - Reverse Light Circuit.jpg

This enabled me to have the rear under-bumper lamps On, Off, or On with the Reverse Lights.


On my Discovery II, I'm using a Defender Auxiliary Lamp Switch YUG000540LNF, modified with a switch cap from a Rear Foglight Switch, as in my post here -

https://www.lrukforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1374451&postcount=4


I've also modified the switch to switch the live to the relay, rather than switching the earth to the relay, this saves bringing a wire back from the switched output side of the relay to light the orange LED on the switch -

I've taken a YUG000540LNF apart to see exactly how it's wired.

Here's a picture of the inside of the switch, which I've annotated to show how the contacts connect accross pins 1 & 4 when in the ON position -

YUG000540LNFON-OFF.jpg

Looking at the circuit inside the switch -

YUG000540LNFCircuitry.jpg

It's easy to convert this switch to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture -

YUG000540LNFCircuitry-1.jpg

By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4

The revised circuit would be as follows -

Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights/Auxiliary Live (as applicable)

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination

Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs)

Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Accessory Relay

Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but I've just crimped an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 and loop it round into Pin 5 on the connector.

You will still need to use an accessory relay with a switch modified in this way but, at least it will be wired in a conventional manner.


If you want to use a YUG000540LNF switch without modifying it's internals, then it should be wired like this -

YUG000540LNF Circuit.jpg

On that diagram, the relay's trigger feed is shown as coming from the Main Beam warning lamp, that's fine for Driving Lamps, but for a worklamp I would take the feed from a permanent fused live, which will allow you to use the worklamp while stationary without having the engine running or the sidelights on.

.
 
I wired its feed to the vehicle's light switch, using the spare terminal on the main switch that is live only when side lights are selected, and off when the external lights are off or head lights are on (I never drive with just side lights - all or nothing). Defenders should have a similar spare position - that's why you see some Defenders with the side lights off when the head lights are on; they've been connected incorrectly to that terminal.
Err, I assume you are talking about the toggle switches on Series motors here ? 90/110/Defender switches don't have such a spare contact, just three wires with a moulded on harness connector. The usual cause for having no side/tail lights on is a dicky switch (mine can be that way sometimes).
 
Hi @PaulMc

I realise this is an old post but I think you're still active. I'm trying to wire a kill switch from the aux light switch on my defender through a relay, wired to the starter relay but I don't really know what I'm doing. Could I ask for your advice on how to do this? My hope is that when the switch is pressed, the starter circuit will be closed (and working) so the Landy can start, and when it's depressed it won't start. How would I go about doing this?

Cheers
Ben
 
Years ago I recall reading in one of the car mags how someone had done an immobiliser that would allow the car to strt, but then cut out a short time later. Bearing in mind this was in the 80s, the idea was that someone trying to nick the car would assume it just ran badly.
 
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