Any chance you could beg/borrow/steal some lengths of scaffold tube and rig up a hoist..?
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Cliff - 1981 Series 3 109 V8 Stage 1
- Thread starter Cliff4WD
- Start date
Not really an option in the tent garage. It was suggested elsewhere that I jack it up higher and support it on cross bars sitting on oil drums and I could then roll the chassis out from underneath. Now, although that would work well "if" the chassis was on wheels and could be rolled, but of course, in my scenario, I need the tub out of the way so that I can work on the chassis, remove the rear axle, springs, etc., while it's under cover. Not a problem though as I will shift the tub with some help. Mind you, I have a lot of work that needs doing to the tub. The floor support cross struts are all rotten, so it might actually make more sense to leave the tub where it is for now and remove the floor from it first. Hmmm, I might have to have a rethink on the best way forward.
Having been pondering next steps, I decided to first off, get the rear tub emptied of everything sitting in it and reorganise my workspace. Actually, the tub isn't that heavy, but it is a pretty awkward thing to lift and manoeuvre without at least 2 people. However, I could pivot it off off the rear cross member utilising a couple of lengths of timber to aid it sliding. I have managed to get it off of the chassis without help and will get a second pair of hands to help shift it to a more convenient spot. I made a short video.
SeriesG
Offroader
The chassis looks very good so that's a huge plus. It all looks good actually, it just needs a wash. Some new stringers on the tub and you're rockin'.
Your experience getting the tub off made me laugh. What is it about men (people in general?) that we'll go to extremes to keep from arranging for a little help. I'm really bad for that. I definitely got it from my Dad. Years back I drove the 15 minutes over to see him and he's just finishing up jacking a support beam to help hold up his sagging garage ceiling. He'd done it himself by slowly blocking it up 6" at a time on two huge stacks of short timbers until it was in place above. It must have taken him days of monotonous labour to do it. I said, "You bloody idiot! You're 70 years old and I'm only minutes away! We could have done this together in half an hour!!!". He just laughed said, "Ahhh. It's no big thing. I didn't want to bother you".
It's what we do.
Ps: I sure miss that bloody idiot...
Chassis looks pretty good. Nice collection of spiders. 
I think I have spent more of my life working out ways to avoid people than simply doing things lol.
After a lot of struggling alone I got some help (you're off the hook @Paul d), together it was not too hard to lift it out of the way.
I decided to sort the rear axle before starting on the tub, so with it now out of the way, I got to work jacking the rear end of the chassis up and onto stands.
Soon had the axle free
I then half killed myself trying to get it onto my dolly
Managed it but absolutely cream crackered now, so wrapped up and off for a long hot shower.
Most likely I'll have to rest up tomorrow as I can hardly move now for back, neck, arms, and shoulder pain.
I decided to sort the rear axle before starting on the tub, so with it now out of the way, I got to work jacking the rear end of the chassis up and onto stands.
Soon had the axle free
I then half killed myself trying to get it onto my dolly
Managed it but absolutely cream crackered now, so wrapped up and off for a long hot shower.
Most likely I'll have to rest up tomorrow as I can hardly move now for back, neck, arms, and shoulder pain.
Good effort though Cliff...
I decided to clean the old paint and surface rust off of the axle case and final drive unit as my my next job, so today was rear axle day. It was the usual one man struggle getting the axle up to working height; the 2 tonne engine crane does a wonderful job at lifting but is a right b'stard to move on the soft surface that is my garden. I used some plywood board to aid the effort but it was still an absolute pain. Anyway, I eventually managed it after a lot of swearing and deep breathing breaks.
I set about it with needle gun and wire wheel. The majority of the surface flakey stuff was actually old paint or under-seal as far as I could make out, but some rust flake too. Overall, the axle is in very good condition.
After a few hours of working at it, I applied a coat of phosphoric acid based rust converter. This will protect it until I can paint it.
I'll sort the hub, drums and brakes next.
The good news is that the salisbury final drive unit appears to be in good order. There is very little backlash and the shafts are turning nicely with no knocking noises or play. I don't think it did much mileage at all since probably having been refurbished before.
I set about it with needle gun and wire wheel. The majority of the surface flakey stuff was actually old paint or under-seal as far as I could make out, but some rust flake too. Overall, the axle is in very good condition.
After a few hours of working at it, I applied a coat of phosphoric acid based rust converter. This will protect it until I can paint it.
I'll sort the hub, drums and brakes next.
The good news is that the salisbury final drive unit appears to be in good order. There is very little backlash and the shafts are turning nicely with no knocking noises or play. I don't think it did much mileage at all since probably having been refurbished before.
Back on the Salisbury axle today. What a struggle. I spent a good couple of hours fighting the bolts holding the drive flange in place. This was after already having to resort to chiseling off the hub cap which had rusted on solid. I tried heat, penetrant, shock, psychic commands, and harsh words, blood sacrifice, and my 600mm breaker bar to eventually tease 5 of the 6 bolts free enough to then rattle gun clear, the 6th though was having none of it and refused to budge. Eventually the head sheared. Not so bad as at least I could then remove the flange and then remove the hub.
I'll probably have to drill it and re-tap although I'll try welding on a nut first and see if that does the trick
The up side, is that everything is in excellent condition. The Timkin bearings are lovely, the brake shoes and cylinder are like new ...
... and the drive shaft has no spline wear.
The oil I drained was good with no sign of water ingress inside the axle case ...
... and no sign of any oil leaking past the seal.
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the condition. I'm only having to touch it at all for the obvious reason of checking condition, and to address the surface corrosion. It looked pretty crusty when I dropped if off of the springs, but it's all cleaning up nicely.
The brake drum and back plate are in the electrolysis bath to get a thorough derust.
I have to do it all again of course, and deal with the sheared bolt (I hope I don't have the same on the other side). Anyway, it should all look nice again when its back together and has been painted.
I'll probably have to drill it and re-tap although I'll try welding on a nut first and see if that does the trick
The up side, is that everything is in excellent condition. The Timkin bearings are lovely, the brake shoes and cylinder are like new ...
... and the drive shaft has no spline wear.
The oil I drained was good with no sign of water ingress inside the axle case ...
... and no sign of any oil leaking past the seal.
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the condition. I'm only having to touch it at all for the obvious reason of checking condition, and to address the surface corrosion. It looked pretty crusty when I dropped if off of the springs, but it's all cleaning up nicely.
The brake drum and back plate are in the electrolysis bath to get a thorough derust.
I have to do it all again of course, and deal with the sheared bolt (I hope I don't have the same on the other side). Anyway, it should all look nice again when its back together and has been painted.
Today was as predicted, a repeat of yesterday; however, I managed to unbolt the drive flange without shearing any of the bolts this time. It took a lot of heat and perseverance with the rattle gun but eventually, I got all 6 bolts out undamaged. The rest was just repetition of what I did before.
I gave the drum and back plate the needle-gun treatment ready for the electrolysis tank. I'll put them in tomorrow when I take the first ones out; they're looking good already but will benefit from another night of treatment.
This is the before photo
I'll put the after shot up when I get them out of the bath.
The next thing will be to remove the final drive (diff) cover and inspect inside.
Axle case is ready for paint.
I've ordered up some of the 'Rustbuster EM121 Epoxy Mastic Rust Proofing Paint' to give it a try.
I gave the drum and back plate the needle-gun treatment ready for the electrolysis tank. I'll put them in tomorrow when I take the first ones out; they're looking good already but will benefit from another night of treatment.
This is the before photo
I'll put the after shot up when I get them out of the bath.
The next thing will be to remove the final drive (diff) cover and inspect inside.
Axle case is ready for paint.
I've ordered up some of the 'Rustbuster EM121 Epoxy Mastic Rust Proofing Paint' to give it a try.