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2004 defender td5

Y

ytre

Accelerating Away
Hello all
My clutch pedal has got very soft today. Quick look under bonnet and I can see dampness around slave cylinder.
Am I better to renew the whole thing or can it be resealed?
Still fluid in reservoir.
Am I looking at a big job as mobility isn't great but I'll certainly try.
 
Had the same problem - replaced the clutch slave and master at the same time (master was a much bigger job) though.

Get a good quality slave cylinder and don't remove the pushrod as the clips will drop off in your bell housing (and thats a gearbox out)

Instructions I used below:

You only need to remove 2 bolts (and the pipe). Unless you are planning to remove the exhaust then don't even think about trying this from below. Given a lot of fiddling however you can remove the nuts from above, with a 10mm socket and a suitable extension bar (a small one worked better in the end). The issue is you can only make it move a couple of mm each ratchet, particularly on the bottom one. If you've got some help here, it would be useful for someone to go under the landy at this point and guide the socket onto the bolt - otherwise persevere and remove both bolts. Don't try and remove the pipe where it meets the slave - rather remove the flexible hose from the union at the bracket on the engine bay - you need 2 suitable spanners (8mm at the bottom as I recall). Remove this first then get the 2 bolts off.

The point where it's ready to come off - BE CAREFUL - heeding previous advice in this thread and elsewhere use a pair of needle nose pliers or similar to hold the internal rod and then pull the slave housing away. I did this and had no issues.

Remove the pipe etc from the old slave, transfer to slave. Reverse removal instructions to fit and then bleed clutch using the bleed nipple - you will need the loan of someone else's left foot at this point - it takes a while to get the whole system bled but it is pretty straightforward.
 
Thank you thinman 21. Done both slave and master, not overly happy with clutch. Biting point is very quick though I have adjusting nut out to end of threaded bar in pedal box. Wonder is pressure plate starting to fail.
 
ytre said:
Biting point is very quick though I have adjusting nut out to end of threaded bar in pedal box. Wonder is pressure plate starting to fail.
Click to expand...
My adjuster is fully out too (this only alters the pedal height).

Had a new clutch less than 3000 miles ago so guessing that bit isn't related to the pressure plate - I do wonder if I got all the air out when bleeding though and will re-bleed soon.

I catch the gears when Changning 2nd to third 'unless' the gear oil is warm (after 20 or so miles driving) or the weather it good.

How many miles on your clutch? They are supposed to be good for 120k or so I think.
 
Thinman21 said:
My adjuster is fully out too (this only alters the pedal height).

Had a new clutch less than 3000 miles ago so guessing that bit isn't related to the pressure plate - I do wonder if I got all the air out when bleeding though and will re-bleed soon.

I catch the gears when Changning 2nd to third 'unless' the gear oil is warm (after 20 or so miles driving) or the weather it good.

How many miles on your clutch? They are supposed to be good for 120k or so I think.
Click to expand...
Hi Thinman
I've 70,000 on mine but it has seen a lot of towing and rugged terrain.
Bleeding is a pain but the pressure bleeder sorted that, think I'll renew the pipe coming from master cylinder and lower it so Bleeding is straight forward. Why its so high is beyond me.
 
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