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200Tdi Head Gasket or Something Else?

The rocker shaft so my book say is 28 to 32 Nm so that could be a slack which wouldn't help and as for blowing air at the nozzles won't do a thing, you have to know opening pressure which is 135 to 140 atmospheres, don't think I'm giving it the biggun, I'm sat here reading those numbers out of a book, but if one breaks to early you will get a knocking or tapping cos it's released the fuel to early basically before the piston is in the right place to fire and would cause smoke.
I don't think I've probably helped you an awful lot fella, just thrown a load of "have you dones" at you, but thanks for the thanks, if it aint valves or fueling in some way though I'd be surprised, keep us posted
 
stevebus said:
The rocker shaft so my book say is 28 to 32 Nm so that could be a slack which wouldn't help and as for blowing air at the nozzles won't do a thing, you have to know opening pressure which is 135 to 140 atmospheres, don't think I'm giving it the biggun, I'm sat here reading those numbers out of a book, but if one breaks to early you will get a knocking or tapping cos it's released the fuel to early basically before the piston is in the right place to fire and would cause smoke.
I don't think I've probably helped you an awful lot fella, just thrown a load of "have you dones" at you, but thanks for the thanks, if it aint valves or fueling in some way though I'd be surprised, keep us posted
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Will do, will probably end up pulling the head off. There’s a few things I’m thinking it could be, but I think I’ll just pull it all apart, see if I find a smoking gun. Will probably be obvious once I find it.
 
stevebus said:
The rocker shaft so my book say is 28 to 32 Nm so that could be a slack which wouldn't help and as for blowing air at the nozzles won't do a thing, you have to know opening pressure which is 135 to 140 atmospheres, don't think I'm giving it the biggun, I'm sat here reading those numbers out of a book, but if one breaks to early you will get a knocking or tapping cos it's released the fuel to early basically before the piston is in the right place to fire and would cause smoke.
I don't think I've probably helped you an awful lot fella, just thrown a load of "have you dones" at you, but thanks for the thanks, if it aint valves or fueling in some way though I'd be surprised, keep us posted
Click to expand...
So, I checked my rocker shaft, seemed too tight! I must’ve read the book wrong cos I did it to 5ft/lbs then 50 degrees, not 28ft/lbs. That’s corrected and it turns over fine. I think the timing is correct, but some C U Next Tuesday has tried to steal my truck! Pulled a load of wires, and I can’t get anything to behave! Will have to put the head problem on hold.

Is it possible for the hard line on the clutch slave cylinder to make a rattle/noise like video shows above? While looking at some bits, I noticed the slave cylinder was upside down, and the line was basically resting on the side of the engine. Maybe? 🤞
 
Sorry to hear about the attempted theft, there's some arseholes about for sure.
I suppose its a possibility with the clutch pipe but me personally listening to your video still reckon that's top end doing something orrible, sorry to say
 
BoyRacerS3 said:
So, I checked my rocker shaft, seemed too tight! I must’ve read the book wrong cos I did it to 5ft/lbs then 50 degrees, not 28ft/lbs. That’s corrected and it turns over fine. I think the timing is correct, but some C U Next Tuesday has tried to steal my truck! Pulled a load of wires, and I can’t get anything to behave! Will have to put the head problem on hold.

Is it possible for the hard line on the clutch slave cylinder to make a rattle/noise like video shows above? While looking at some bits, I noticed the slave cylinder was upside down, and the line was basically resting on the side of the engine. Maybe? 🤞
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I guess you could wrap something rubberish around the pipe and run the engine to test your theory 👍

Only as a temporary measure .
 
stevebus said:
Sorry to hear about the attempted theft, there's some arseholes about for sure.
I suppose its a possibility with the clutch pipe but me personally listening to your video still reckon that's top end doing something orrible, sorry to say
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I thought this would be the case, definitely wishful thinking 😂

Gone through the injectors and cleaned em all up today. Truck runs a little better but noise is still there. Only things I can think of now are exhaust manifold, vacuum pump and cam followers. I just don’t see how any of that could have failed in such a short space of time!
 
Not that I've ever had one go I've heard people say that if a vacuum pump goes can make an awful noise maybe give that a look sooner rather than later, have you got a stethoscope or cut a broom handle off make a point on the end, stick the blunt end to your ear and go round the engine like that, it might shed a bit of light, I feel your pain bruvver! I feel your pain
 
stevebus said:
Not that I've ever had one go I've heard people say that if a vacuum pump goes can make an awful noise maybe give that a look sooner rather than later, have you got a stethoscope or cut a broom handle off make a point on the end, stick the blunt end to your ear and go round the engine like that, it might shed a bit of light, I feel your pain bruvver! I feel your pain
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Ive done all that and it sounds top-end ish. Ran out of time to take it all to bits again between working and undoing the work done by the worlds worst car thief. All they managed to do was unplug loads of random bits and break the connector to the power wire.

Im going to pull the head off this week and take it back to the garage I bought it from for a test, and strip it down to see whats up. All the followers seem good after an examination with my borescope, but i'm keeping the head on for now so I can at least drive it onto a trailer to drag it up to the garage to do a proper teardown. Will update the thread with the solution when I find it.

As for the exhaust manifold, one of the studs had disappeared along with the nut, and another one was loose. My fault for not checking it properly, but I thought I might as well try it just in case.
 
I have updates!

Fully stripped the engine and found that number 3 piston was hitting the valve. Stripped the bottom end and found that the shell bearings on the big end were damaged and not doing their job!

All the followers are ok, one is slightly damaged on the shoulder and the camshaft is still happy.

does it make sense that the piston would have more up-down travel if the bearing was knackered? That’s my thinking anyway 🤷‍♂️
 
That's a very unusual scenario for a shell being that knackered, if it was ever going to be that fucked to be fair I can't imagine your oil light would have ever gone out and it would have been rattling like a locomotive and you'd have stopped the engine long before you'd have been worried about an head gasket gone,
 
Was the conrod loose once you'd pulled it down? Is the crank OK if it's had that much movement to let the piston hit the valve surely to god that won't be good, can you send some pics of the offending shells, I'm assuming they are now copper colour and probably hammered flat if there's anything left of it at all
 
It must be, because all the other pistons are fine. Piston only hit the valve on no.3, and valves are all level, as far as I can tell.
 
Here are the pistons, numbered and with their bearings next to them

8C7800D3-5FBA-41B0-882D-1085A1D63BBA.jpeg
00431134-0C56-4263-8584-31777740D42E.jpeg
 
BoyRacerS3 said:
Here are the pistons, numbered and with their bearings next to them

View attachment 530514View attachment 530515
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Fella, all joking aside here I think your going to be lucky if the crank is serviceable with all 4 of them like that, one of those journal's is going to be bolloxed which to be fair is going to mean a regrind which will mean all 4 cos you cant just do one, I have a number serviceable 200 cranks here taking up space and I'd like to think in my life time I'm not going to get round to using them all, well I sincerely fucking hope not, I see your in Kent if you want to PM me your number your more than welcome to come and grab one, conrods aswell, the one I have in mind has good shells but I'd advise to get new ones but you'll have to workout end float shims as every block will be slightly differ, see what your crank is all about and go from there, let me know
 
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