Any ideas anyone?!!

[CB4]

I have a D4 11 plate that I'm having issues with. It runs great for days then just refused to start. There's a click + all lights come but nothing. It will jump start, then run fine again for days.
It's had a service in last few weeks, new battery and last week - new earthing cables. Alternator + starter seem fine. There's no odd noises.
Anyone make a suggestion as to what I try next? It's driving me crazy!!

 

[Big Sandy]

Hmmm... I'm not a discovery officionado, but I think you have a second battery? Could be dying, maybe.

From my limited knowledge it's the battery for the stop start system, (which kind of makes sense symptom wise I guess) which I *think* is located somewhere near the brake master.

Just a thought, like. And, welcome to the forum too!

 

[Big Sandy]

Maybe @gstuart could point to your auxiliary/stop start battery, knows his stuff so he does.

 

[CB4]

Maybe @gstuart could point to your auxiliary/stop start battery, knows his stuff so he does.

Have already had a look on good old YouTube! It's certainly worth a shot. Thanks

 

[gstuart]

I have a D4 11 plate that I'm having issues with. It runs great for days then just refused to start. There's a click + all lights come but nothing. It will jump start, then run fine again for days.
It's had a service in last few weeks, new battery and last week - new earthing cables. Alternator + starter seem fine. There's no odd noises.
Anyone make a suggestion as to what I try next? It's driving me crazy!!

Hiya

May I ask is yours stop start please as if not indeed u will have just the one battery

With the new battery has that been fully charged and was the BMS reset plse , also can u see on ur invoice what make of alternator and battery that was fitted plse as very important , along with where the earth leads were replaced

Personally would always be very cautious jump starting these vehicles , just in case u cause a spike , as read others that have done it and caused damage to some modules etc , not always but on the side of caution

For my D3 I have a CTEK battery charger along with a GB50 NOBO jump pack, as there a lot more stable than jump starting from another vehicle

Would first test the battery with the engine off using a multimeter , should be around 12.6 Vdc , if u haven’t pop down to Halfords etc as can then get it fully checked out to ensure the battery and alternator are working correctly

Another very good thing to have is ur own code reader , they pay for themselves very quickly and invaluable seeing there full of electronics

I’ve got a gap iid which does virtually everything ur ever need, alas are around £450 but worth every penny , next is a basic one called an AUTEL AP200 , white , have to be careful as not all of them are equal , if u do wish to get one I can find a suitable link for u, they are around £70 but again basic but will provide u with fault codes along with clearing them, very handy to keep in ur glovebox

Hope that gives u a starting point

 

[gstuart]

Maybe @gstuart could point to your auxiliary/stop start battery, knows his stuff so he does.

Bless u kind sir , that’s very nice of u to say

 

[gstuart]

Almost forgot , meanwhile until u get a battery charger if it happens again with the clicking , use a multimeter to find a good earth around the engine bay or on the engine itself, go from the battery neg post to another ground point to find a good earth,

Then use a jump lead from the battery ground post to that same spot and try again, that will rule out a bad earth or not

 

[Guitar Mick]

Quick question, when you are looking for a good earth the engine bay, should you be looking for a plus 12 volt reading?

 

[CB4]

Hiya

May I ask is yours stop start please as if not indeed u will have just the one battery

With the new battery has that been fully charged and was the BMS reset plse , also can u see on ur invoice what make of alternator and battery that was fitted plse as very important , along with where the earth leads were replaced

Personally would always be very cautious jump starting these vehicles , just in case u cause a spike , as read others that have done it and caused damage to some modules etc , not always but on the side of caution

For my D3 I have a CTEK battery charger along with a GB50 NOBO jump pack, as there a lot more stable than jump starting from another vehicle

Would first test the battery with the engine off using a multimeter , should be around 12.6 Vdc , if u haven’t pop down to Halfords etc as can then get it fully checked out to ensure the battery and alternator are working correctly

Another very good thing to have is ur own code reader , they pay for themselves very quickly and invaluable seeing there full of electronics

I’ve got a gap iid which does virtually everything ur ever need, alas are around £450 but worth every penny , next is a basic one called an AUTEL AP200 , white , have to be careful as not all of them are equal , if u do wish to get one I can find a suitable link for u, they are around £70 but again basic but will provide u with fault codes along with clearing them, very handy to keep in ur glovebox

Hope that gives u a starting point

It does thanks! It is a stop/start but I have no eco warning light on. My local 4x4 garage did the reset + have tested alternator. The battery is a Varta. They have also fitted the earthing cables. I'll have a look at code readers. Thanks again

 

[gstuart]

It does thanks! It is a stop/start but I have no eco warning light on. My local 4x4 garage did the reset + have tested alternator. The battery is a Varta. They have also fitted the earthing cables. I'll have a look at code readers. Thanks again

Many thks and once again apologises for all the questions

alas wasn’t 100% sure what year they started to be stop / start , so they tested both batteries with a meter plse , does it say on the invoice what make of alternator they fitted please

Did they check the large earth cable behind the front drivers side wheel arch liner as that’s a very important one, when I done mine I used a dremel with a smal,n stainless steel wire wheel to clean the earth posts and terminals , then reinstalled using some copperslip,

Personally would use something like a CTEK charger and charge both batteries overnight , can leave them connected

Indeed please let us know how u get on and that this helps

 

[gstuart]

Quick question, when you are looking for a good earth the engine bay, should you be looking for a plus 12 volt reading?

Hi mate , hope u didn’t mind me answering this ,I found using either a LCD test light or a conventional one with the interior bulb

Would get around 12 .4-5 VDC when I tested from the battery positive to the earths around the engine itself and others , found using a dremel with a small wire wheel invaluable to clean the earth posts and eyelets , reinstalled with some copperslip , as some earths were used by the ECM 5 Vdc reference supply voltage

I’m also wondering if everything checks out if there’s a residual battery drain, ? had one myself and used a clamp meter , along with making up test leads for every fuse as had to wait for the modules to go to sleep , couldn’t remove any fuse as it would have woken them up again , but had to test each one individually

It did take me a good few days to find it , in the end it was a seat memory module, I had retrofitted front electric seats so in the end I sat down and I made up all new wiring looms for each seat , omitting the memory module, sad part was I really enjoyed doing it in fault finding and then making up new complete seat wiring looms

Of course I hope none of this comes across in trying to teach u how to suck eggs as I know ur very knowledgeable

 

[CB4]

Many thks and once again apologises for all the questions

alas wasn’t 100% sure what year they started to be stop / start , so they tested both batteries with a meter plse , does it say on the invoice what make of alternator they fitted please

Did they check the large earth cable behind the front drivers side wheel arch liner as that’s a very important one, when I done mine I used a dremel with a smal,n stainless steel wire wheel to clean the earth posts and terminals , then reinstalled using some copperslip,

Personally would use something like a CTEK charger and charge both batteries overnight , can leave them connected

Indeed please let us know how u get on and that this helps

Haven't had a new alternator fitted as garage saying it's OK. The large earth cable has been replaced. I'll speak to the garage about cleaning the posts etc - I have just presumed that they would. Will let you know how I get on! Thanks again!

 

[gstuart]

Haven't had a new alternator fitted as garage saying it's OK. The large earth cable has been replaced. I'll speak to the garage about cleaning the posts etc - I have just presumed that they would. Will let you know how I get on! Thanks again!

Apologises as mis read it, lol , know when I’ve had issues I’ve also used the live data of diagnostics very useful in identifying issues

going to fit a better split charge battery system in mine and at the time I fitted a couple of battery monitors on each battery , used a few different types of software on my iPhone via Bluetooth, can set alerts as well when the battery gets low , just extremely useful to have as it can also test the cranking voltage,

Many thks and indeed please let us know how u get on ,

 

[Guitar Mick]

Hi mate , hope u didn’t mind me answering this ,I found using either a LCD test light or a conventional one with the interior bulb

Would get around 12 .4-5 VDC when I tested from the battery positive to the earths around the engine itself and others , found using a dremel with a small wire wheel invaluable to clean the earth posts and eyelets , reinstalled with some copperslip , as some earths were used by the ECM 5 Vdc reference supply voltage

I’m also wondering if everything checks out if there’s a residual battery drain, ? had one myself and used a clamp meter , along with making up test leads for every fuse as had to wait for the modules to go to sleep , couldn’t remove any fuse as it would have woken them up again , but had to test each one individually

It did take me a good few days to find it , in the end it was a seat memory module, I had retrofitted front electric seats so in the end I sat down and I made up all new wiring looms for each seat , omitting the memory module, sad part was I really enjoyed doing it in fault finding and then making up new complete seat wiring looms

Of course I hope none of this comes across in trying to teach u how to suck eggs as I know ur very knowledgeable

Thanks for that detail Gary, The battery monitor you referred to, just seen this in this months Land Rover Mag, a bluetoothed monitor from Sealey

 

[gstuart]

Ur so welcome, that looks very interesting, bless u for sharing it

The one I got was called a BM2 , but did just get another one for:the states that is supposed to have a better Bluetooth range, going to fit it later when the warmer weather comes, , will then report back

Thks again

 

[CB4]

Car now fixed - new starter motor fitted. It was obviously just beginning to misbehave and would have failed completely at some point. Have cleaned all terminals + alternator while we were in there. Back to happy motoring!

 

[Guitar Mick]

Car now fixed - new starter motor fitted. It was obviously just beginning to misbehave and would have failed completely at some point. Have cleaned all terminals + alternator while we were in there. Back to happy motoring!

Excellent news, Thanks for the update