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clutch adjustment on 300TDi?

Jandude

Jandude

Accelerating Away
My clutch has started slipping when pulling hard in fifth. I read on another thread that a SIII owner had the same problem when the bite point on the pedal movement got very high.
Well the bite point on my pedal is extremely high and, before I blow £450 on a new clutch, I wonder if there is any adjustment on the pedal box where the mechanical link meets hydraulic - does anyone know if the bite point can be adjusted on a 300TDi Defender and, if so, whether that would cure the problem?
I can't see a point for adjusment and my neighbour, who has a 200TDi Disco and all the manuals, says there isn't any adjustment to be made on his, and it looks the same as mine.
If you can save me £450 there's a fair few points to be had (you can have all of mine!).
Answers before Thursday please as I've already booked it in to the (Landy)garage.
 
Yeah, if you remove the flat plate on top of the clutch pedal box on the engine bay side, you should be able to look in and see there are nuts that hold the pedal position on the push rod shaft of the master cylinder.

IIRC correctly if you move the bolts and pedal pivot closer to the bulkhead, then you'll push the bite point further down the travel of the pedal itself.

i half remember that my bolts were rammed right up against the limit of the thread 0 or i may have even removed one to get extra adjustment ( it was a few years ago now )

room is extremely limited so you may have to file down a couple of spanners to make them thin enough to get at the nuts

it goes without saying that you should also be checking for any fluid leaks and that the system is bled properly.
 
The adjustment on the pedal linkage is for taking up free play only and setting pedal height, there is no adjustment on the clutch itself. Sorry, but if its slipping in 5th, you need a new clutch. The clutch mechanism hasn't changed much on any LR much since 1958 and winding the nuts in on the pedal reduces the amount the clutch disengages and wears out the release bearing.

When your garage changes it, get them to weld a big washer on the back of the clutch release fork behind the pivot point, they have a habit of cracking and spliting. Don't skimp, replace every part, ie driven plate, cover plate, release bearing and release fork.
 
Looks like I've got a big bill ahead, then. It always happens just when I think I've got some spare cash!

The garage will replace every part of the clutch including the fork. I'll speak to them about the washer strengthener trick.

Many thanks 101Sean.
 
Sean, I'm going to disagree slightly.

Its perfectly possible that the pedal is holding the clutch open slightly if the nuts are such that when the pedal is up, the master cylinder is held open slightly - i.e. the nuts are too far away from the bulkhead.

I changed my master and slave cylinders one time, put it all back together. Drove off and a few days later realised I was getting clutch slip on high gears going up hills. The pedal feel felt fine, but it slipped.

This was resolved by adjusting the nuts closer to the bulkhead.

Before ripping out the engine or the gearbox to change the clutch, its worth a try for the sake of 10 minutes work and a couple of filed down spanners.

What is there to lose?
 
i know u not gonna want to hear this.... but it wot mine was doing (just not slippin in 5th) but it was very high.

the bad news is that last saturday my clutch waved bye bye.
 
I took the cover plate off the pedal box at lunchtime but didn't have time to modify a spanner to fit the nuts inside. The nuts are wound fully out away from the bulkhead so I'm going to have a go at adjusting it tonight and see if that cures the problem. Otherwise I'll be joining Olo in his new-clutch-club.

I'll let you know what happens.
 
Okay,
I've just had a run to abuse the clutch to get it to slip after adjusting the master cylinder pushrod in the pedal box. So far so good - I couldn't get it to slip.
You were right Fisha. There was no float on the pushrod which probably means the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I now have a few millimetres travel on the pedal before the bite point. If I push down even slightly from the bite point then I can make the clutch slip, but no slip under load in fifth gear any more (although it'll have to wait until the weekend before I can give it a good test with a few people in it).
The pedal trunion on the pushrod was as far away from the bulkhead as it could go. I moved it maybe 5mm back, following instructions I found on a diagram on the web (sorry, in my haste I didn't save a link to the forum - I think it was a landyzone.co.uk thread) taken from the workshop manual, I think. Here it is for future ref.
So, many thanks Fisha and Sean; your help was invaluable. I'm cancelling the new clutch for now. Sadly I had a couple of thousand points but they seem to have been nicked so I can only offer my hearty thanks rather than virtual points.
 

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Thanks gents.
I'm not a hands-on mechanical genius so this is quite a feat for me (amazing how a bill that size galvanises action!).
On the way to the station this morning I gave the clutch as much stick as I could and it didn't slip so I've got my fingers crossed it'll have quite a bit of life left in it (shut my mouth before I talk anything up).
If it fails at the weekend I'll let you know.
cheers some more...
 
Glad to see you appear to have sorted it and proved me wrong!
Fisha is right, thinking about it in the cold light of day without the benefit of a bottle of red, its fairly obvious :coffee:
 
I think I need more than one bottle of red, Sean. Got off the train last night to see the contents of my car's (Honda Accord) radiator in a puddle.

So the ££ I've so far avoided on the Landy clutch can buy me a new rad instead. Anyone want to buy a Honda...
Just call me lucky - not! :tearRolls
 
Hi I am new to this But i have found out how to ajust the clutch without fileing down spanners all you have to do is get some one to press the pedel down till you can see the nuts, you can fit the spanners in just tell the person on the pedel to move in and out as needed it is easy. the pedal, should be level with brake pedal.
 
that bit of workshop manual was posted by me on LR4x4 & LRo forums & it's in my photobucket pages, glad to read it has helped cure your cluctch problem
 
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