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Clutch slave cylinder ?

michaelridgeway

michaelridgeway

In Third Gear
Hi,

I have been experiencing increasingly alarming clutch judder on my 109 1982 2.25 petrol. Clutch was fine with plenty of travel left. Possibility of main engine oil seal shot, and ingin oil contaminating the clutch. Thats the worst case.

To eliminate other possibilities I have removed the slave cylinder and replaced it with a purchase from e bay (do I never learn?). No clutch. The shoulder is 14mm deep. Thats the bit which the two bolts connect through.

The original has a shouder 10mm deep and has the part number `0481 - Girling.` I can only guess this is preventing the connecting rod travelling far enough. Do I have to adjust the clutch at the master cylinder or do I need to get another slave cylinder? If so what part no. for Paddocks please? I have bled the system with an Eezi bleed kit but no travel.

Also does anybody know the bolt size for the slave. Curiouisly both are secure but turning. Do I need longer ones to compensate for the extra 4mm? Or have I just shredded the threads on the clutch housing?

Its a good job its not a b£$%^&d to get to.

Thanks

Mike R
 
Hi Michael

Series 3 Clutch Slave cylinder Landrover Part Number 591231 (Would have been a Girling Unit from LR)

The Series 2A Gearbox used a similar looking but different Slave cylinder (Don't have the part no.), I think it has the mounting is at a different position on the body but not 100% sure. Is this the part you got from ebay?

Bolts in part book are 5/16 UNC if that helps!

Bloggs
 
Hi Michael

Looking at the parts book after the post above noticed there is a spacer / load spreading plate between the slave and the gearbox casting (Pt # 591988) Its something like 2mm thick from memory.
Attached should help as long as it uploads OK. :)

Bloggs
 

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Yup,

Thats the feller. Thank you very much for taking the time. I think I have fitted a S2A one to my Series 3. I got around the shorter bolts by using longer ones, but using a nut to tigten it against the slave cylinder flange. It seems to be holding. Must get a parts book.
The original was filthy with gunge on the clutch side of the piston. Either clutch fluid or engine oil. Still has a judder but I will see if the oil burns off. What a pig to get to. Took me nigh on 4 hours, with my head rammed between the crank case and the chassis rail, a 6" and a 12" socket and then I got it on upside down , so it would`nt bleed properly. Life is a learning curve and I just keep going uphill.

Thanks again.

Mike R
 
hmmm, have heard of unpleasant stores about pattern hydraulic parts I replaced the internals in mine (seals and stuff) - no reason why you cna't do this providing the bore is smooth and unscored.
 
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