• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Driver demand problem 1

P

pjh1968

In Fourth Gear
Hi guys,

Next problem - When accelerating above 50mph or increasing power on a hill I get a shudder and a loss of power, the vehicle drives fine under 50mph (50mph is not an exact speed when the fault appears but a approximate speed).
I have new fuel pump and lines fitted, wategate is free, New MAF & MAP sensors fitted.
Nanocom says Driver demand problem 1 is that the accelerator pedometer?
Does this sound like my fault?

Thanks
 
Is the loss of power complete revs back to idle or just a blip like someone has stabbed the brakes then it continues on through?

Were the new sensors LR from a main dealer or aftermarket - do you know the brand?

I'm assuming TD5?

Could be lots of things, I'd be looking at earths (especially to the ECU body, as well the injector harness (any oil in Red ECU plug)? When's the last time your fuel filter was changed? How much fuel is in your tank? Have you drained the water from the bottom of fuel filter?

Is your fuel pump squealing when you first put ignition on? If yes run the prime function several times and make sure you have at least 10 litres in the tank.
 
I'm petty sure I've read that if one of the potentiometers in the accelerator pedal position unit fails the power will be limited to about 28/30% of normal accelerator movement, and given that's where your fault code is or tool is pointing that's where I'd start.. Check the accelerator potentiometers.. their connector and earth's
 
Driver Demand 1 fault, chased this one for years and still not settled on an absolute cause for it.

Driver Demand (DD) faults are reputedly caused by either worn accelerator pedal tracks (track 1 in this case) or a broken wire between the pedal and the ECU. This is the first place to start fault finding, but in my experience it was not these bits of hardware at fault.

WhatI have found is that since having the ECU re-remapped by Alive the DD1 fault has completely ceased to happen. Whether it was an adjustment of boost pressure or the map itself it does make me think that if the pedal and wiring to the ECU are good then a DD1 fault can be a "sensor-map" mis-match issue.

Anyway, this is the throttle pedal voltages as in the manual. This one is for the 3 track pedal for the later 15P engines.

td5_pedal_3track.png
 
OK did some testing today.

Plugged in the nanocom went to the Accelerator page which had 4 boxes Accel 1, Accel 2, Accel 3, Accel voltage.

I'm guessing this is the 3 track type??

Anyhow turned ignition to on - slowly pressed the accelerator and Accel 1 went from 0.857 up to 4.87 not sure of the exact figures or what Accel 2 and 3 are measuring? Voltage feed was over 5 volts.

Went for a drive different story, Accel 1 didn't want to go over 3.2 volts and dropped voltage when accelerating got back home turned of the engine slowly pressed the pedal and it stopped at 3.2 volts. Turned off the vehicle reset everything turned back on slowly pressed the pedal and Accel 1 went upto 4.87 volts?

Looking at the pedal is there a cover missing?

I inspected the the wires the best I could but I saw nothing obvious the wires then disappear into the loom.

I'm still thinking I need a replacement but getting this part looks difficult it seems to be on back order everywhere.

I'm thinking of a second hand part for now does anyone know where I can get this part.

Landrover defender 110 2003 td5 is my vehicle.

Thanks hope this all makes sense
 

Attachments

  • 20240402_115234.jpg
    20240402_115234.jpg
    418.2 KB · Views: 6
Geobloke said:
Driver Demand 1 fault, chased this one for years and still not settled on an absolute cause for it.

Driver Demand (DD) faults are reputedly caused by either worn accelerator pedal tracks (track 1 in this case) or a broken wire between the pedal and the ECU. This is the first place to start fault finding, but in my experience it was not these bits of hardware at fault.

WhatI have found is that since having the ECU re-remapped by Alive the DD1 fault has completely ceased to happen. Whether it was an adjustment of boost pressure or the map itself it does make me think that if the pedal and wiring to the ECU are good then a DD1 fault can be a "sensor-map" mis-match issue.

Anyway, this is the throttle pedal voltages as in the manual. This one is for the 3 track pedal for the later 15P engines.

View attachment 527403
Click to expand...
Thanks Geobloke,

The previous owner had the vehicle remapped to which I have very little information.
Do you think that might be an option for me to get it remapped again? I did think about taking in to a tuner to see if they could shed any light on the fault.
I did some testing suggested by someone on another forum which I have replied on here, take a look and see what you think.
Picture attached shows picture of the pedal looks like there is a cover missing?

Thanks
 
pjh1968 said:
Thanks Geobloke,

The previous owner had the vehicle remapped to which I have very little information.
Do you think that might be an option for me to get it remapped again? I did think about taking in to a tuner to see if they could shed any light on the fault.
I did some testing suggested by someone on another forum which I have replied on here, take a look and see what you think.
Picture attached shows picture of the pedal looks like there is a cover missing?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Ah the unknown map... Yes you can remap a previously remapped ECU. Miffy is on her 4th map now. Whilst the engine will work the map should really be revisited after big upgrades (intercooler, turbo, etc) or even a repair. So the last remap (done by Alive) was actually done after fitting an AMC head to Miffy. That was when Miffy's DD1 issue disappeared. The previous remap was a Covid era generic over internet map that was absolutely horrid. You can if you have a Nanocom return the ECU back to its original LR map. It is a free download via Nanocoms Map App, but it might help diagnose your problem. If the DD1 still happens then it is likely a hardware issue, if it vanishes then it is a mapping issue. You should be able to save your current map onto an SD card and re-flash the ECU if you want it back on again.
 
Geobloke said:
You should be able to save your current map onto an SD card and re-flash the ECU if you want it back on again.
Click to expand...
Not so sure about that mind.. Any map I've had that allowed storing could only be stored on specific hardware supplied by the mapper.. And it was always vehicle specific..
I just presumed it was like that or maps would be getting copied and transfare by everyone... Maybe they arešŸ¤£šŸ™ˆ and I need to move with the timesšŸ¤£
 
Maps will likely use vin and the device id (of the device used to load the map) as components of the key when the map is written.
Doubt a device that is not the original could write it to another ecu even if the vin was fiddled to match.
Nothing is uncrackable but i doubt the market for td5 maps warrants the hacking effort involved
 
Hi guys

Apologies for the delay in responding I had to wait for the harness which I finally got installed not to difficult of a job!
Unfortunately still the same issue, decided to wait 2 weeks to book myself into my local landrover specialist, I don't think they even investigated the problem got fed up and gave it back to me with the same problem.
I ordered a accelerator pedal fitted that and it seems to be ok šŸ¤žšŸ¤žšŸ¤ž
Not been on a lengthy drive but it seems to be pulling ok.
The only problem I have cleared the 'driver demand problem 1' several times now but it keeps coming back but I don't have the problem or I hope I don't šŸ¤ž
The nanocom does say 'driver demand fault 1 logged' so I'm wondering is that different and maybe something Geobloke has described?

Thanks
 
Back
Top Bottom