• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Fault Code: P1260 Low fuel pressure control

GAV.DOL

GAV.DOL

Offroader
Hi all,

You may have seen my recent post on poor economy and lack of power.

To refresh:

I have had a remap done.
Changed the air filter
Cleaned the EGR valve
Changed the crankcase breather filter.

It starts fine, drives ok but no way near as quick as just after the remap. It seems to struggle a little on hills, fuel economy has deteriorated and it has slight missing through the rev range. The engine management light was also coming on when I put my foot down but then went as soon as I took my foot off.

Took it to my remap guy today and the only fault that came up was P1260 - Low fuel pressure control.

So, he did a leakback test and all was ok, he checked the fuel pump and it sounded ok (working!!). He has suggested changing the fuel filter, using a bottle of Forte and seeing how it goes. If no better in a few days, then he suggested taking the injectors off for inspection and overhaul if required.

Does all this seem about right? I am quite happy that there was no other fault codes but obviously want to sort it asap.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

Cheers, Gav
 
I have just had a thought - fuel pressure sensor? Is that the one located at the end of the rail? If so when I was cleaning the EGR I took if off and gave it a spray, could that have done anything?
 
Same for me last year, and i think i had the same fault code too. It's the fuel pump in the OSR wheel arch. You could hear our old one working too, but that was the problem. The new one is a lot quieter too.
 
robbie77 said:
Same for me last year, and i think i had the same fault code too. It's the fuel pump in the OSR wheel arch. You could hear our old one working too, but that was the problem. The new one is a lot quieter too.
Click to expand...

Hi Rob, Really?? Wow, I honestly thought because I could hear it then it was fine!!

How much did yours cost and was it easy to change?
 
The code is exactly as expected. The increased fuelling demanded by the remap is outstripping the Lp supply. As suggested it's most likely to be the pump itself that's weak but check the tank pick up is clear and change the filter.

Be careful with replacement pumps, some copy pumps are very noisy and also some don't have the same delivery rate as OEM which is important, particularly for your remapped engine. Stick with an OEM replacement in this case.
 
Gav, straight up. When i fitted the new pump, i realised how laboured the old pump had become.

It was actually Chaser that posted me a link to a genuine pump on Ebay and i picked it up for £100.

It is located next to the fuel filter up above the OSR wheel arch, and it is 137613 time easier to change than the fuel filter!
 
Agree entirely with Robbie, a new OEM pump will be fine.

Your mileage is a bit on the low side for pump failure so recommend you look into that possibility of a restriction at the tank pick up.
It won't take long to take out the tank unit and check. I only say this based on previous findings when pumps seem to have failed early due to struggling to pull fuel through a blockage
 
Well mine has developed what seems like a bit of a missfire as it is lumpy as fook at low revs, but you can rev through it so i think i need to check the pick up on mine. Is it accessed from under the back seats Chaser?
 
Thanks guys.

I have just ordered a haynes manual to help me do the job!

So you both reccomend changing the pump and filter and checking the pick up before touching the injectors?
 
Yes. The pump is next to the fuel filter.

Jack up and support the OSR rear of the car, and take off the wheel.
As you look up into the wheel arch, you will see some plastic clips (they look like buttons stuck to the trim) - remove these and gently hold back the trim. This will reveal the pump and the filter.

Next, struggle for about 3 hours to get the filter out of it's housing. It will not come out until you have tried all of the following - pulling with hands, swearing, pulling with pliers, more swearing, squirting with WD40, trying with pliers again, lots of swearing and tapping with a hammer. Eventually it will come out, but you will probably have broken the earthing strap ( i never repaired the strap on mine.
Just make sure when you put the new one in the sleeve that you have the arrow on the filter pointing the right way. You will also note that the new filter will sit loosley in the housing!

The pump is a lot more simple to replace.
 
GAV.DOL said:
Is there any way of knowing just by looking that this is OEM?

Also, why does it say in the description that its for later 2A vehicles??
Click to expand...

It looks as genuine as mine did. There is one on there in a LR box at £130.

Later 2A refers to the chassis number of your vehicle. I believe Later than 2A is all facelift FL's, but check your chassis number to be sure.
 
GAV.DOL said:
Is there any way of knowing just by looking that this is OEM?

Also, why does it say in the description that its for later 2A vehicles??
Click to expand...

2A.......10th and 11th digits of chassis # shows model year...3A =2003, 4A=2004 etc.

so the pump is for vehicles after 2002my which is when they changed to the pump under the arch.
 
I did see this one, daft as it sounds I dont mind paying more knowing its in a LR box!

Do you think I should just go ahead and do this then before I even consider the injectors? Obviously there is no certain way of knowing but just trying to plan so I spend on only what I need.

When I fit the new pump, does it need to be calibrated etc? It is something that I can do myself? Pretty handy with most things so happy to try as long as I dont have to mess about with bleeding it.
 
Back
Top Bottom