Frustrated overheating problem freelander 1 1.8l k series

[Rhody]

Hi, i do hope everyone is well. Need assistance please...

Summary;
Overheating to begin with...
Replaced top gasket ( dual layer )
Replace coolant bottle with cap
Undid the bleeding screw and pipe to bottle
Made absolutely certain air escaped and running coolant poured. Did this for about 20 25 minutes.
Started motor idled until fans came on but fans were spinning low. = normal.
Took her for a drive not speedy over Rev drive just normal below 2½ rpm.
Then fans came back on temp Guage now through the roof.
No ticking sounds and found that the inlet to radiator pipe was rock solid hard and very hot whilst the return pipe from radiator was cool even below normal temp.

Removed radiator, checked for blockage but found none. Water speeds through radiator with max ease.
Removed water pump, replaced with new one.
Did the air lock checks and still the same.
Boils like a volcano.
Removed thermostat and tried again but no luck.

Any ideas please ?

 

[madmechanic 954]

Hi, i do hope everyone is well. Need assistance please...

Summary;
Overheating to begin with...
Replaced top gasket ( dual layer )
Replace coolant bottle with cap
Undid the bleeding screw and pipe to bottle
Made absolutely certain air escaped and running coolant poured. Did this for about 20 25 minutes.
Started motor idled until fans came on but fans were spinning low. = normal.
Took her for a drive not speedy over Rev drive just normal below 2½ rpm.
Then fans came back on temp Guage now through the roof.
No ticking sounds and found that the inlet to radiator pipe was rock solid hard and very hot whilst the return pipe from radiator was cool even below normal temp.

Removed radiator, checked for blockage but found none. Water speeds through radiator with max ease.
Removed water pump, replaced with new one.
Did the air lock checks and still the same.
Boils like a volcano.
Removed thermostat and tried again but no luck.

Any ideas please ?

I know it is a daft question .... but did you get the head skimmed and new stretch bolts ... the k series is a nightmare for over heating... and you can not cut corners with it ....

 

[Rhody]

I know it is a daft question .... but did you get the head skimmed and new stretch bolts ... the k series is a nightmare for over heating... and you can not cut corners with it ....

Thank you for the reply,
Yes, I did skim the head, no to the bolts.
It was not so long ago approx 3k kms before when I popped a head gasket and bought new bolts.

 

[madmechanic 954]

Thank you for the reply,
Yes, I did skim the head, no to the bolts.
It was not so long ago approx 3k kms before when I popped a head gasket and bought new bolts.

I am not quite such what to say about the bolts ... yes they are expensive as such ..but they are stretch bolts and would have stretched when you tightened them after the change the first time ... but .. what gets me is the fact that the top hose is very hot and pressurised/solid .. and yet you say the bottom hose is cold and ..is that pressureised/solid as well.??

 

[mikeau]

Dont know about the bolts on these engines, but you get to re-use the 300tdi stretch bolts up to five times. Of course, you need to know the history of the vehicle and if they have been used before (and how many times) and to be honest, for the cost of the bolt set I would have replaced them anyway.

.. what gets me is the fact that the top hose is very hot and pressurised/solid .. and yet you say the bottom hose is cold and ..is that pressureised/solid as well.??

Im going to say that it sounds fairly normal, provided the rad is free-flowing (as he says it is) then the pressure cant be different top to bottom (hoses may be older/feel stiffer), and the temperature difference top to bottom means that rad is doing its job surely..?

Is there a special trick to bleeding these engines? as Im wondering about an air blockage restricting coolant circulation

Is it running regularly? no misses etc?

Final thought;
Did you test the thermostat to check its opening correctly? Wouldnt be the first time people got a faulty one out the box.

 

[Rhody]

Dont know about the bolts on these engines, but you get to re-use the 300tdi stretch bolts up to five times. Of course, you need to know the history of the vehicle and if they have been used before (and how many times) and to be honest, for the cost of the bolt set I would have replaced them anyway.

Im going to say that it sounds fairly normal, provided the rad is free-flowing (as he says it is) then the pressure cant be different top to bottom (hoses may be older/feel stiffer), and the temperature difference top to bottom means that rad is doing its job surely..?

Is there a special trick to bleeding these engines? as Im wondering about an air blockage restricting coolant circulation

Is it running regularly? no misses etc?

Final thought;
Did you test the thermostat to check its opening correctly? Wouldnt be the first time people got a faulty one out the box.

Thank you for the reply.
Bolts can be used 4 5 times that's correct.
Caution needs to be added obviously when engine got extremely hot.
Tell tell would be confirmed if the cylinder head needed skimming meaning it warped.

As for the coolant bleeding, there is no other method than opening the bleeding screw at the bulk head, and the outlet pipe from cylinder head to expansion bottle on these engines.

Apply a water hose directly into the expansion bottle with continuous water supply. In addition is to fill a 10l bottle with already antifreeze mixture. Place the bottle into the expansion bottle upside down.
You can leave the bottle there even with engine running.
This will become a bleeding mechanism when the pipe from engine to expansion bottle is refitted plus the bleeding screw to bulk head is refitted.
This method provides air to be replaced with liquid.

As for the thermostat, I have removed this and set aside. I am thinking about leaving this out completely as we don't experience cold weather as the northen hemisphere.
Here down south africa many vehicles run without them due to weather.

What happens is even after bleeding and made absolutely sure the bleeding methods are done properly, after a while when the engine is running, at operating temperature, opening slightly the bleeding screw to bulk head, steam blows out, and when removing the screw, find that the system blows air instead of coolant.
Back to square one again.

This is what frustrates me to death.

 

[Rhody]

Dont know about the bolts on these engines, but you get to re-use the 300tdi stretch bolts up to five times. Of course, you need to know the history of the vehicle and if they have been used before (and how many times) and to be honest, for the cost of the bolt set I would have replaced them anyway.

Im going to say that it sounds fairly normal, provided the rad is free-flowing (as he says it is) then the pressure cant be different top to bottom (hoses may be older/feel stiffer), and the temperature difference top to bottom means that rad is doing its job surely..?

Is there a special trick to bleeding these engines? as Im wondering about an air blockage restricting coolant circulation

Is it running regularly? no misses etc?

Final thought;
Did you test the thermostat to check its opening correctly? Wouldnt be the first time people got a faulty one out the box.

Oh and the engine does not misfire at all. In fact she purrs like a kitten.

 

[Rhody]

I am not quite such what to say about the bolts ... yes they are expensive as such ..but they are stretch bolts and would have stretched when you tightened them after the change the first time ... but .. what gets me is the fact that the top hose is very hot and pressurised/solid .. and yet you say the bottom hose is cold and ..is that pressureised/solid as well.??

Hi

Both are pressured solid.
At first I'm thinking it's a faulty cap, cap being pressure release valve.
But what frustratingly amazes me, opening the bleeding screw slightly, no sign of coolant but only steam. Removing that screw totally proves only steam no coolant.

 

[Big Sandy]

Out of interest, have you tested the engine temperature with an infra red thermometer? Be interesting to know how accurate the temp guage is. Obviously it's hot....

In the bleed system, on the inlet, there is a brass valve with a ball in it, the ball sticks apparently, and this leads to bleeding problems. I remember somebody telling me about that ages ago.... I also seem to recall an updated pressure release hose? You sound like you know what you're doing, hopefully you'll know what it is I'm thinking I remember! (Does that make sense?)

 

[madmechanic 954]

I know you will say you have bled the system ... leave the heater control on you should feel the air getting hotter as it warms up .. and listen for the gurgling noise of the water or maybe trapped air flowing through the heater matrix ... but did you find the reason for the head to go again in such a short time i.e 3000kms .. from last time you did the head gasket .. ???if not well you are going to be chasing your tail .. and will have to start again .. head back.. off another new gasket ... leave the thermostat out .. as you say .."you do not need it in SA.. and you are right there...... the K series engine was a nightmare for over heating ... wether it was in the metro.. rover cars and vehicles like your 1.8 k series freelander but pressure in both top and bottom hose,s and steam coming out of the bleed screw ... and yet you say that the steam is coming out when the gauge is only showing normal ... no thermostat no over heating ..as such .. but steam .. the engine ticks over lovely ... i would try and bleed the bloody thing again ... the caveat is ... the head and block is getting hot every time you try bleeding it and running it .. will you blow the gasket again..?? another thing with a temp sensor is that it will read a lower temp if there is no water around the sensor for it to read from .. steam is not the same as water ... i think..... so the outcome is to bleed the thing again ... take it for a drive and take water with you ... you are just trying to force the air around the system by driving it ... and then bleeding it .. and topping it up .. yes it is a pain .. but what is the other answer ..the K series engine could either blow gaskets nearly every year or two .. or you could have a good one that just does not blow the head gasket .. just luck of the draw some times with that K series and the O series before it fitted in sherpas and the poxy princess cars arhhh ... how ever the Perkins prima engine from the montego van ... (were being fitted into land rovers at the time as a retro fit .. just like the 200 and 300 tdi series are now..) what a good engine ... as for would it fit into a freelander .. i have know idea ...any way good luck...

 

[Rhody]

Out of interest, have you tested the engine temperature with an infra red thermometer? Be interesting to know how accurate the temp guage is. Obviously it's hot....

In the bleed system, on the inlet, there is a brass valve with a ball in it, the ball sticks apparently, and this leads to bleeding problems. I remember somebody telling me about that ages ago.... I also seem to recall an updated pressure release hose? You sound like you know what you're doing, hopefully you'll know what it is I'm thinking I remember! (Does that make sense?)

Hi
You are right with that ball valve.
As for the infrastructure temp test, no I have not done that.
Good idea though.
The engineers did tell me they performed a thorough check for cracks etc and found none.

But I've learned through time it's their word against mine, so accepting this approval, I do not exactly accept their certificate.

This entire exercise I am having problems with, points to a cracked cylinder head.
When cold aluminum shrinks and when hot it does expand.
This gets me thinking about swapping cylinder heads. Problem down south we ain't that lucky with spares, and Pounds to Rands convert is not worth ordering one if available from the UK.

Even a replacement engine from the UK delivered at my door will not be cost effective.
With that money I could burn this Landy and buy a suitable good condition vehicle for that price.
And I so really don't want to let go of my girl.

 

[Rhody]

I know you will say you have bled the system ... leave the heater control on you should feel the air getting hotter as it warms up .. and listen for the gurgling noise of the water or maybe trapped air flowing through the heater matrix ... but did you find the reason for the head to go again in such a short time i.e 3000kms .. from last time you did the head gasket .. ???if not well you are going to be chasing your tail .. and will have to start again .. head back.. off another new gasket ... leave the thermostat out .. as you say .."you do not need it in SA.. and you are right there...... the K series engine was a nightmare for over heating ... wether it was in the metro.. rover cars and vehicles like your 1.8 k series freelander but pressure in both top and bottom hose,s and steam coming out of the bleed screw ... and yet you say that the steam is coming out when the gauge is only showing normal ... no thermostat no over heating ..as such .. but steam .. the engine ticks over lovely ... i would try and bleed the bloody thing again ... the caveat is ... the head and block is getting hot every time you try bleeding it and running it .. will you blow the gasket again..?? another thing with a temp sensor is that it will read a lower temp if there is no water around the sensor for it to read from .. steam is not the same as water ... i think..... so the outcome is to bleed the thing again ... take it for a drive and take water with you ... you are just trying to force the air around the system by driving it ... and then bleeding it .. and topping it up .. yes it is a pain .. but what is the other answer ..the K series engine could either blow gaskets nearly every year or two .. or you could have a good one that just does not blow the head gasket .. just luck of the draw some times with that K series and the O series before it fitted in sherpas and the poxy princess cars arhhh ... how ever the Perkins prima engine from the montego van ... (were being fitted into land rovers at the time as a retro fit .. just like the 200 and 300 tdi series are now..) what a good engine ... as for would it fit into a freelander .. i have know idea ...any way good luck...

Hi and thank you for your reply.

Reason for the short interval cylinder head removal, I had a hissing noise and identified this to be the intake manifold gasket. A rubber gasket. Upon inspection on this I saw on piston 2 water rust line downward on the block.
I then tested compression on all cylinders found number 2 weaker than the rest.
This concluded the puzzle why every 4 day I had to top up coolant.
That lead me to remove cylinder head and as predicted number 2 cylinder on the gasket it leak through.
What amazed me is that the engine is slightly tilted towards the front so how could coolant leak towards the back? It turns out the hissing noise was evidently not the intake manifold gasket afterall.

3k kms down the road I pop yet another gasket again. This time gasket leaked on number 4 cylinder on coolant side not oil.
Again back to the engineers to skim but asked for a thorough check for cracks.
Gave me a approval everything was fine.

Replaced everything once again and stuck with this issue at hand.
Previously I didn't have this problem.

Okay getting to your ideas mentioned, I have driven short distances 4 times already bled her more than 5 times cold and during warm.
I've drain the entire system again using the removal of water pump which for obvious reasons is the lowest position to drain out.
I then proceeded to flush again the system with clean water using prescribed methods.
Replaced then start over again. Still the same.

This leads me to one conclusion.
If the system is bled correctly, and the issue still exists, the only other option will be to replace the cylinder head. Due to steam build up, and the current situation.
Depending on the equipment engineers use its common to over look or identify cracks that just can't be seen with the naked eye.
My thoughts would be a cracked cylinder head at this point.

I'd like your thoughts or opinion if possible.

And as for the last part of your comment, you are absolutely on this.
I totally agree with you on this.
Land Rover won't agree thats why they quickly built the freelander 2 version.
If they only built the engine for the Freelander 2 that could replace on the freelander 1 by mountings etc then it would've been more suitable I guess.
To go through the conversion pain in the butt installing a different unit would be non profitable SA side. Early years it was okay but again, it's a real pain staking job but doable.

However, thank you kindly for your take I humbly appreciate this.

 

[madmechanic 954]

Well here goes ... firstly ... i would ask the person who said that you could replace the head bolts on a k series 4 or five times before you should fit new bolts.. to come and do it for me .. as long as they are willing to do the job for free should the engine turn into a steam engine two minutes after you have paid them .. their belief in not changing the bolts will sorely be tested ... you could use the bolt measuring method .. .. i looked up ..or at least tried to .. but i am a scrooge .. a book by a friend .. well sort of .. i just make better coffee.. des hammill .. and the k series engine relating to head gasket failure.. and if he comes over for the summer as he use to before covid .. he can explain it to me more ..
The inlet manifold water mark .. was probably from the gasket .. a common fault ... you say that cylinder 2 showed gasket failure .. but where did it fail .. not across to cylinder 1 or 3.. because of your compression test .. so it must have either gone to an oil way or water way .. and i suspect water way close to the leak in the inlet manifold area .. but only a guess .. now it has shown up as a leak on cylinder 4.. but 3000 kms later .. but you do not say how long it has taken to do the kms .. two weeks or six months .. as for a cracked head .. only a pressure test will really give you a clue .. a visual inspection ..is more guess work than confirmation .... so in conclusion .. there is a for and against the need to skim the head the chances are that if the gasket has gone between two cylinders then it will be warped .. where as if it is a localised break into a water way or oil way .. then just checking the straightness/flatness.. of the head.. might be enough and a skim is not needed .. .. the gasket is of a layed design .. the reason seems to be that the movement between the engine block surface and the head ... always make sure you have put the dowels back in to locate the gasket .. but also to try and help keep the movement between the two parts down to a minimum... stretch bolts .. well they do just that .. they stretch and contract .. every time you start it up and run it ... as to will they stretch beyond the ability to do the stretch and contract part so as to seal the two parts .. i would say yes .. so new stretch bolts every time .. is just my opinion ..

 

[Rhody]

Well here goes ... firstly ... i would ask the person who said that you could replace the head bolts on a k series 4 or five times before you should fit new bolts.. to come and do it for me .. as long as they are willing to do the job for free should the engine turn into a steam engine two minutes after you have paid them .. their belief in not changing the bolts will sorely be tested ... you could use the bolt measuring method .. .. i looked up ..or at least tried to .. but i am a scrooge .. a book by a friend .. well sort of .. i just make better coffee.. des hammill .. and the k series engine relating to head gasket failure.. and if he comes over for the summer as he use to before covid .. he can explain it to me more ..
The inlet manifold water mark .. was probably from the gasket .. a common fault ... you say that cylinder 2 showed gasket failure .. but where did it fail .. not across to cylinder 1 or 3.. because of your compression test .. so it must have either gone to an oil way or water way .. and i suspect water way close to the leak in the inlet manifold area .. but only a guess .. now it has shown up as a leak on cylinder 4.. but 3000 kms later .. but you do not say how long it has taken to do the kms .. two weeks or six months .. as for a cracked head .. only a pressure test will really give you a clue .. a visual inspection ..is more guess work than confirmation .... so in conclusion .. there is a for and against the need to skim the head the chances are that if the gasket has gone between two cylinders then it will be warped .. where as if it is a localised break into a water way or oil way .. then just checking the straightness/flatness.. of the head.. might be enough and a skim is not needed .. .. the gasket is of a layed design .. the reason seems to be that the movement between the engine block surface and the head ... always make sure you have put the dowels back in to locate the gasket .. but also to try and help keep the movement between the two parts down to a minimum... stretch bolts .. well they do just that .. they stretch and contract .. every time you start it up and run it ... as to will they stretch beyond the ability to do the stretch and contract part so as to seal the two parts .. i would say yes .. so new stretch bolts every time .. is just my opinion ..

Hi

I have to agree to your entire comment.
What I will do is start over strip C head purchase bolts and gasket do the visual again etc and update back here.
You gave valid points of consideration and never have I abandoned 2nd 3rd opinions.

I've never in my 42 years of being mechanic experience such a challenge as with this motor.
And I've done a few of these series over the years.

Kindly accept my humble appreciation for the help so far.
I will update soon.

 

[Big Sandy]

Kindly accept my humble appreciation for the help so far.

A man of sense and manners, so you are. So few say thank you, and it's a pleasant change. Thank YOU!

 

[madmechanic 954]

Hi

I have to agree to your entire comment.
What I will do is start over strip C head purchase bolts and gasket do the visual again etc and update back here.
You gave valid points of consideration and never have I abandoned 2nd 3rd opinions.

I've never in my 42 years of being mechanic experience such a challenge as with this motor.
And I've done a few of these series over the years.

Kindly accept my humble appreciation for the help so far.
I will update soon.

I know i might seem to be the bringer of bad news .. and yes you can always find that engine that you just can not figure out what is wrong .. even though you have done the job a thousand times before on these engines ..but before you strip and buy the new parts .. i would be tempted to buy new bolts and change one bolt at a time until the head is bolted down with all new bolts .. now do you start at the last bolt in the assembly tightening sequence and work back wards replacing them .. or do you start replacing them from the first bolt in the tightening sequence ...mmmm.. undecided on that one ..make sure you also replace the inlet manifold gasket .. it was the main cause of coolant loss which would lead to overheating and gasket failure .. i am not sure if you have a low water sensor fitted on yours .. but they seem to hold so little water capacity.. i would also suggest checking for modifications to the head gasket set up read up on rover sites on the porasity of the heads and shims that have been used in the replacing of the gasket .. you seem to have that one engine that is a nightmare to get right .. and with the inherent design flaws of the K series .. all you can do is read up .. and buy the best you can get .. go through it all again .. and hope that you have reached a compromise ..with over coming the built in design flaw.. by doing the best you can do .. i do not believe the head is cracked .. yes they do .. but i remember doing a head gasket change on one of these horrible engines and water was seaping out from the head gasket down the engine .. i had tried to save some one money .. and not change the head bolts.. it did not work .and i tried to give the head bolts a bit of a tighten .. all that achieved was a stripped thread in the carrier .. great sump off more work and expense for me to take the hit on .. and all because i did not follow my own rules on head bolts .. good luck however i am willing to come to africa if you are willing to pay the costs ... which part of SA are you from..???

 

[Rhody]

I know i might seem to be the bringer of bad news .. and yes you can always find that engine that you just can not figure out what is wrong .. even though you have done the job a thousand times before on these engines ..but before you strip and buy the new parts .. i would be tempted to buy new bolts and change one bolt at a time until the head is bolted down with all new bolts .. now do you start at the last bolt in the assembly tightening sequence and work back wards replacing them .. or do you start replacing them from the first bolt in the tightening sequence ...mmmm.. undecided on that one ..make sure you also replace the inlet manifold gasket .. it was the main cause of coolant loss which would lead to overheating and gasket failure .. i am not sure if you have a low water sensor fitted on yours .. but they seem to hold so little water capacity.. i would also suggest checking for modifications to the head gasket set up read up on rover sites on the porasity of the heads and shims that have been used in the replacing of the gasket .. you seem to have that one engine that is a nightmare to get right .. and with the inherent design flaws of the K series .. all you can do is read up .. and buy the best you can get .. go through it all again .. and hope that you have reached a compromise ..with over coming the built in design flaw.. by doing the best you can do .. i do not believe the head is cracked .. yes they do .. but i remember doing a head gasket change on one of these horrible engines and water was seaping out from the head gasket down the engine .. i had tried to save some one money .. and not change the head bolts.. it did not work .and i tried to give the head bolts a bit of a tighten .. all that achieved was a stripped thread in the carrier .. great sump off more work and expense for me to take the hit on .. and all because i did not follow my own rules on head bolts .. good luck however i am willing to come to africa if you are willing to pay the costs ... which part of SA are you from..???

Hi

Update ...
So it turns out a cracked head, between c 1 -2.
Here's the mind bizarre I've never seen nor even experienced in my life before.

Infra red showed a mi-nute cracked horizontal between c 1 - 2 in the middle of the head more or less 3 4 ish mm from face upward. Not visible on face nor on the inner valve room.
Very odd...
My thinking is when the c head warms up this expands the aluminum and most likely through to valve room. Compressed air now escapes through this into the coolant jacket which now causes extreme pressure.

If someone merely cleaned the c head facing, even using a magnifying glass would never pick this up by the naked eye.
Very odd because somewhere between the Crack to a outer layer should be visible.

Now the hunt begins for another c head. Which is a real pain in the butt. I've had a few exchanges before and out of the few perhaps one was usable. I don't care much for stitching or weld work on heads, in my experience they just continue cracking up from the stitch or weld.

Anyway, as for the H - bolts, yes I am going to purchase new but that's if I can locate me another c - head. All others such as gasket etc I will purchase once I discover another head somewhere in SA. Importing these items is nightmarish expensive from SA.

As for where I'm from, city called ( Pietersburg, - previous name ) Polokwane ( new name ) Limpopo.
Paying costs to visit is one thing, but would I invite people to a shit hole very dangerous with crime that's insane everywhere?
Nope, I feel you smart people need to stay just where you are for your own safety. Believe me on this. This country is not ever the same as it was back in the day.
If I had my own way I would immigrate elsewhere with the snap of a finger.
Probably best advice is do research about this country but don't use MSM.

Until I manage to locate a c head, I will ask kindly for you to have patience meantime until I update here the end conclusion.

Kindly accept my sincere humble appreciation for spending time and energy to assist a poor brother out.
__________>

 

[Big Sandy]

Sincerely hope you manage to find another head.

 

[brianmcm]

Moore's Auto in Walkerville may be able to help you with a head. He is very good on Freelander parts, even to rarer items.

Richard Moore email [email protected] phone 083 228 6452

Web site :

https://www.mooresautosales.co.za/

 

[madmechanic 954]

Hi

Update ...
So it turns out a cracked head, between c 1 -2.
Here's the mind bizarre I've never seen nor even experienced in my life before.

Infra red showed a mi-nute cracked horizontal between c 1 - 2 in the middle of the head more or less 3 4 ish mm from face upward. Not visible on face nor on the inner valve room.
Very odd...
My thinking is when the c head warms up this expands the aluminum and most likely through to valve room. Compressed air now escapes through this into the coolant jacket which now causes extreme pressure.

If someone merely cleaned the c head facing, even using a magnifying glass would never pick this up by the naked eye.
Very odd because somewhere between the Crack to a outer layer should be visible.

Now the hunt begins for another c head. Which is a real pain in the butt. I've had a few exchanges before and out of the few perhaps one was usable. I don't care much for stitching or weld work on heads, in my experience they just continue cracking up from the stitch or weld.

Anyway, as for the H - bolts, yes I am going to purchase new but that's if I can locate me another c - head. All others such as gasket etc I will purchase once I discover another head somewhere in SA. Importing these items is nightmarish expensive from SA.

As for where I'm from, city called ( Pietersburg, - previous name ) Polokwane ( new name ) Limpopo.
Paying costs to visit is one thing, but would I invite people to a shit hole very dangerous with crime that's insane everywhere?
Nope, I feel you smart people need to stay just where you are for your own safety. Believe me on this. This country is not ever the same as it was back in the day.
If I had my own way I would immigrate elsewhere with the snap of a finger.
Probably best advice is do research about this country but don't use MSM.

Until I manage to locate a c head, I will ask kindly for you to have patience meantime until I update here the end conclusion.

Kindly accept my sincere humble appreciation for spending time and energy to assist a poor brother out.
__________>

Well ... now if it was me .. i would still buy bolts put the thing back together ... one part of an argument would say to use a new gasket .. and yet i would be sorely tempted to re use the gasket you already have .. the logic being that it has not really compressed properly yet because of the old bolts .. and it has not really done any work...if it works then you are in front .. if not then you can then use the new bolts for when you do find a head for it.... ( the only time i would reuse head bolts on that engine... as they have not gone through the stretch and contract cycle many times ) it is the time taken to do the work that is the frustrating part .. but you could now do it in automatic mode ... and it would confirm if the crack you can see is actually causing a problem .. or is just that a minor crack that is there but not causing a problem ..... boy am i glad it is you that has to make the decision whether to give it a go or not... I was is SA in1991 for a few months .. what a very nice country .. and the women on the beaches in hout bay in cape town ...mmmm Beitbridge .. joburg (hillbrow )Durban and the mother city Cape town... good times ... when i saw the Rohdy tag .. it did make me wonder if you were originally from Rhodesia...??.. any way stay safe.. they would kill you for a pound is the feeling i had whilst there .. because it is a pound more than they have.. what a damn shame for a country of so much beauty.. and potential....