• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Getting ready for Paint

border

Trekker
Trying to get this thing rubbed down ready to paint, going to Hand Paint, brush / roller.
Anyway problem is I have no electric, just generator when it works, and hand tools,
Not done this before so dont know how far I have to go before I start priming, took me all weekend to almost get both wings done, using one of these wheels on cordless grinder, https://www.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-preparation-wheel-115mm/606jj it does the job but lost count of how many batteries I have gone through. Not looking for a shiny show room finish, somthing like my bulkhead which I have already painted will do.
Do I have to get every bit back to bare metal before I prime it ? or will what it is like in pics do, it is quite smooth and like I said does not have to look like a super car paint job, its only a Land rover o_O
 

Attachments

  • 20220925_133327.jpg
    20220925_133327.jpg
    208.2 KB · Views: 63
  • 20220925_133315.jpg
    20220925_133315.jpg
    230.3 KB · Views: 39
I would say that looks good to me ,when I had mine sprayed I did all the sanding down and prep , I didn’t go right back to the metal in places mainly because I got fed up doing it ,but I think it was as flat as possible..I used a wet n dry to sand mine down no power tools just different grades ..harsh one to start with then a fine one at the end .you should get a good finish on that surface .
Trying to get this thing rubbed down ready to paint, going to Hand Paint, brush / roller.
Anyway problem is I have no electric, just generator when it works, and hand tools,
Not done this before so dont know how far I have to go before I start priming, took me all weekend to almost get both wings done, using one of these wheels on cordless grinder, https://www.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-preparation-wheel-115mm/606jj it does the job but lost count of how many batteries I have gone through. Not looking for a shiny show room finish, somthing like my bulkhead which I have already painted will do.
Do I have to get every bit back to bare metal before I prime it ? or will what it is like in pics do, it is quite smooth and like I said does not have to look like a super car paint job, its only a Land rover o_O

9BECD7B2-5C91-4C2C-A8D9-2A171751B83B.jpeg
35AD1BE1-F76E-4023-8D09-742563C933E4.jpeg
9F7C290D-A971-4AD0-BE8C-8BB7A67BFC39.jpegCD5E5A8F-B6F2-445E-AD46-C005E9B72556.png09BA9049-A2B0-4299-8A43-C356191E4758.jpeg
 
Last edited:
As long you get all the flaking paint off then it should be all good. You may find that applying the first coat of primer pulls up small flakes of paint even after sanding, don't worry if that happens just sand it down before applying a second coat of primer.

Pictures of post sanding, post primer and post first top coat of my vehicle. I used a foam roller for mine, less chance of getting bits of roller stuck in your paintwork.
 

Attachments

  • 20220907_150610.jpg
    20220907_150610.jpg
    429.6 KB · Views: 32
  • 20220907_173532.jpg
    20220907_173532.jpg
    108 KB · Views: 31
  • 20220911_172941.jpg
    20220911_172941.jpg
    154.8 KB · Views: 38
I would say that looks good to me ,when I had mine sprayed I did all the sanding down and prep , I didn’t go right back to the metal in places mainly because I got fed up doing it ,but I think it was as flat as possible..I used a wet n dry to sand mine down no power tools just different grades ..harsh one to start with then a fine one at the end .you should get a good finish on that surface .


View attachment 296954View attachment 296955View attachment 296956View attachment 296957View attachment 296958
Thanks Just what I wanted to hear, Cracking Job there,
As long you get all the flaking paint off then it should be all good. You may find that applying the first coat of primer pulls up small flakes of paint even after sanding, don't worry if that happens just sand it down before applying a second coat of primer.

Pictures of post sanding, post primer and post first top coat of my vehicle. I used a foam roller for mine, less chance of getting bits of roller stuck in your paintwork.
Great Thanks ,Great job on yours too.
Need to do the rear tub and doors next,
What Primer did Yous both Use ?
 
Although I did also use this on my galvanised crossmember and bumper to ensure the top coat stuck...
 
Bit more done just the roof and tailgate to go.
Ordered Etch primer and more paint from smith and allen yesaterday , now they tell me they are out of stock of etch, really needed it for this weekend, most on ebay are not gauranteed to get here on time so will have to try and find some locally.
 

Attachments

  • 20220926_183924.jpg
    20220926_183924.jpg
    159 KB · Views: 27
  • 20220926_185451.jpg
    20220926_185451.jpg
    176.2 KB · Views: 35
Bit more done just the roof and tailgate to go.
Ordered Etch primer and more paint from smith and allen yesaterday , now they tell me they are out of stock of etch, really needed it for this weekend, most on ebay are not gauranteed to get here on time so will have to try and find some locally.
I'd recommend that you use epoxy primer instead of the etch, it sticks and seals and provides a very good base coat primer which can be flatted if needed to provide a very good surface for top coats.
 
Had a go tonight does not seem to bad can see a few bits that might need a light sanding again, shall I use wet and dry for that and what grade ? The primer is quite thin although there is no thinners added, it states that it is ready to brush or roll straight from the tin, so think it will need maybe 3 coats depending what the second is like.

 

Attachments

  • 20220930_185510.jpg
    20220930_185510.jpg
    152.4 KB · Views: 28
  • 20220930_185558.jpg
    20220930_185558.jpg
    132.7 KB · Views: 27
  • 20220930_185642.jpg
    20220930_185642.jpg
    200.7 KB · Views: 35
3 coats of primer, Can anyone notice the stupid mistake though?
Sanded a few bits here and there , there is one or two dents but it s good enough for me , will look brand new from a 100yards
:)
:)
Gonna start with top coat tomorrow, still got the roof to sand down should have really done that before I started priming body. going for limestone white for roof and bits on cab.
 

Attachments

  • 20221001_173801.jpg
    20221001_173801.jpg
    205.7 KB · Views: 27
  • 20221001_173813.jpg
    20221001_173813.jpg
    264.6 KB · Views: 35
  • 20221001_173829.jpg
    20221001_173829.jpg
    180.8 KB · Views: 31
3 coats of primer, Can anyone notice the stupid mistake though?
Sanded a few bits here and there , there is one or two dents but it s good enough for me , will look brand new from a 100yards
:)
:)
Gonna start with top coat tomorrow, still got the roof to sand down should have really done that before I started priming body. going for limestone white for roof and bits on cab.
Mistake ? No
 
Mistake ? No
Not sure if its a mistake or not but I have painted, primed over the capping on top of rear tub that runs along in line with top of the bottom half of door if you know what I mean, a Mate called in and said these should be left . galve color.
 
Not sure if its a mistake or not but I have painted, primed over the capping on top of rear tub that runs along in line with top of the bottom half of door if you know what I mean, a Mate called in and said these should be left . galve color.
I see ,down to preferred finish I think I’ve seen them left bare or painted ..people do like a bit of galvanised showing .
 
Back
Top Bottom