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Ignition trouble intermitant fault

Uplyme Series 3

Uplyme Series 3

Overdrive!
OK last couple of days my landy been a pig to start from cold, I was convinced it was a lift pump issue. Today she started frist turn of the key and ran ok on 1/2 chocke but then as I drove down the road sudden loss of power and engine died, so having stopped turn key it restarted and we carried on. About 3/4 of a mile later loss of engine power then refused to start. After about two minutes restarted and now appears OK.

My thoughts, lift pump, or some other fuel issue, Ignition cutting out losse wire or the switch failing?
 
Simple things first! If you have an intermittent connection in the supply to the coil the charge (ignition) light will normally come on until the engine stops. Sometimes the ignition barrels can get a bit sticky, try some WD40 or similar in the key slot. If that doesn't work check connections on back of the ignition switch and LT wires on coil and distributor. David
 
phoenixdave said:
Simple things first! If you have an intermittent connection in the supply to the coil the charge (ignition) light will normally come on until the engine stops. Sometimes the ignition barrels can get a bit sticky, try some WD40 or similar in the key slot. If that doesn't work check connections on back of the ignition switch and LT wires on coil and distributor. David
Click to expand...
Thats sort of where I'm going but not until it stops raining!
 
I had the same or similar issue. Driving along and then the engine would suddenly die for no apparant reason. After a lot of faffing about, it turned out to be the ignition switch: an intermittent fault was breaking the +ve supply to the coil. I bodged it (sorry, did a field repair) by running another 12V feed vis a separate switch in the dash. The starter was still activated by the ignition switch and all I had to do when I stopped was to flick the separate switch once I had removed the key. After a bit it became second nature just to do it, I never got round to sorting out the actual ignition switch.
 
The rain itself can be part of the problem. A wet distributor cap and/or plug leads can be problematic. Are they newer parts? Plug leads have a 10 year life span whether they get used or not. They go up in resistance and once they pass 10K Ohms the engine won't run well. Even at 5K Ohms, there can be drivability issues.

If you can get it running, do a wiggle test on coil wires and the ignition key. Frayed wires and loose connections aren't uncommon.
 
If you are running a standard points set up, check the wire from the coil to the points. Particularly where the wire joins to the spring arm on the points. I had a complete dead cut out a while back. It took me ages to find the fault and it was a break in the contact to the spring arm of the points. The continuity test worked fine, but the amount of contact the wire was making was not enough to support the circuit, so it would just cut out.
 
Hello guys , I,m back , & my mates here thought the spoof ASBO was in order ! , right , I had this problem with the old straight 6 , try changing the ignition coil itself for a brand new one , because as these work they firstly become warm , & expand slightly internally , so an only-just-making-it crack in the primary or secondary winding gets warmer , expands & the electricity no longer can jump the gap , engine stops dead wherever you might be , you turn ign off , poking around wondering what has gone wrong this time , coil cools back down , you find nothing , try ign & starter again , engine goes , you're off & the whole cycle starts over again . Also all ignition coils get weaker & weaker with age & use so it,s smart to change an old one anyway for a good high power one . Best Regs All .
 
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