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Lift up handle door lock problem, Now Fixed!

cappers

cappers

Trekker
Site Donor
Hi all,

I posted this query a while ago on LandyZone and although I got some good advice I'm still having difficulties, so I thought that another set of readers may have some fresh ideas....

In a nutshell, 1986 90 front door with lift up handles, I can't remove the lock barrel from the assembly. I can't release it with the key as the lock had been forced and key won't fit. The barrel is MUC4146:
122681-47dd47b2cda40a8f58e2d74e77e2b564.jpg
From the inside there is a small nut and tab on what screws into the end of the barrel; removed it but couldn't slide the lock out so resorted to drilling it out. Some of the barrel came away...including what looks like a ball bearing......
IMG_0819.JPG
but the rest of it is stuck in the barrel housing, and hammers, drifts, WD40 and swearing won't remove the remains. So I now have a large hole through the barrel but the outer bit is stuck within the barrel housing.
IMG_0822.JPG IMG_0823.JPG
Any suggestions as to how to remove the rest would be much appreciated. Such a simple job which has taken hours of effort so far too no avail.

Cheers, capo without a lockable Landy
 
OK, remains of old barrel drilled out, new one pushed in, screwed to the metal holder on the inner side of the lock i.e barrel goes thru' outside and the brass bit via the inside, with the barrel slotting into the back of it, secured with the small bolt and tab.....

Key turns left and right but doesn't lock the door, handle lifts up and opens in either position.

WTF am I doing wrong?
 
Got a pic of the handle on the inside? I can't remember what they look like!

On a Series vehicle, if you don't shim the lock tab right, it misses the handle, and you can just lift it. Mine aren't anti burst like yours, but I bet it's a similar problem.
 
Not sure if mine are anti-bursts? Mine is as in the image from the workshop manual....
90 front door.png

I think the ball bearing I mentioned above is vital but I lost it (though it was part of the old drilled out barrel not the lock assembly :whistle:

I found this online, my underlining (didn't copy the url!)

If you have lift up handles.
Disconnect the linkages to the lock from the inner handle
Un bolt and remove the lock from the door.
Then take a suitable tool and push it into the hole to depress the ball thereby allowing the lock barrel to be removed.

It also seems that there were 2 types on the early 90/110s, and I assume mine is the earlier MUC2290 (VIN xxxxxxxx238212).

One on eBay for £230!!!! John Craddocks say to use MUC6979 but no price, Blanchards 'contact for price', Paddocks, whoohoo, £25...but will it fit/replace the existing lock assembly?
ebay lock.png door lock assembly.png
Even if I found the ball bearing or got another I don't know where it goes, so I might have to stump up for the Paddocks one.

Thanks for the help; frustrating little jobs like these are so Land Rover:ld-mrgreen: but I don't like not having any locks even if they are pretty useless once fitted.
 
Well, compared to the price of original equipment, paddocks seems like a bargain. 'Should' fit...(it is britpart) to be fair, I got a full set of locks from them for my III and they were fine, bit loose maybe, in the keys..but fit okay. Defender locks are quite a bit different, but the idea is the same. Just...fussier.

Worth it I reckon... gives you a chance to strip the old one and fathom out what does what.
 
Been on the phone to Paddocks and they say it won't fit?! The chap said that he gets calls everyday for LUH locks and they're unobtainable. Might give it a try anyway otherwise I'm thinking of deadlocks, neither pretty nor in keeping with the originality, but I'm concerned about its vulnerability.
 
Ok, hopefully getting somewhere with First Four (www.firstfour.co.uk & www.shadowoffroad.co.uk)

I emailed them with details, dates and pix and the reply was "Yes, that lock will also fit your car, and the barrel you have should also fit the new lock."

This is the lock they are selling:
Capture.JPG
It is part no. 395037 (Allmakes) and goes for £27; if it doesn't fit they said they'll refund me.

Anti-Burst Door Lock. RH.
S/S FQJ103340
Suitable for:-
Land Rover Series 1978 on
Defender 84-94
Standard on military models 1978 on including 101 forward control
Right hand anti burst type door handle and lock assembly (barrel lock and keys sold separately).
Also fits rear end door on hard top models including. station wagon.

I have also seen the same part no. on LRSeries.com - Britpart £26, genuine £94. Code is S/S FQJ103840 whereas the First Four code is S/S FQJ103340.

I have a replacement barrel (MUC4146 - supersedes MUC 2290) which should fit.....however they are sending me one of these as they are the specific type for this lock.
upload_2017-10-17_15-43-3.png

I'll post up the outcome as I am sure I'm not the only early ninety/one ten owner with LuHs and dodgy locks.
 
The lock arrived and it is a rear door/military type/series style.
Unknown.jpg
It would probably work in the front door but I'd have to modify the door card to allow room for the inner handle, and the remote opening handle on the hinge side of the door won't work as there's nowhere to fit the connecting rod! Don't really want to start cutting and bodging.

Seen exactly my latch (MUC2290) on eBay for £200! and at PBBlanchard for 'price on request' (I have). Every other dealer I have tried on the net states that it is NLA, and the latch than replaces it (MUC6979, VIN 242692 on) is also NLA!
MUC2290_inside.jpg MUC2290_outside.jpg
I'm sure it's something to do with the brass lock holder that secures the barrel in the latch and the missing ball bearing.
135493-cffc1c23d9bf8a3dde31513aaa2dc060.jpg
When I put the correct barrel (MUC4146) in the key turns left and right but doesn't lock the door, and the handle lifts up and opens in either position.

On LZ, it's been suggested Have you fitted it 180 degrees out? and IIRC the sprung ball bit that's depressed to remove the barrel also restricts the rotation movement to 180 deg. There is no sprung ball on the MUC4146 barrel and I can't see where one would go on the holder, although there is on the barrel for the rear door latch.

So will try it 180 deg round and possibly take the n/s latch off very carefully to see how it's set up; don't want to lose any more balls!

I hope my trials and tribulations posted here may be of use to anyone with an early Ninety/One Ten with dodgy latches and locks; it seems that replacing them will be a problem. Saw an add today from Gumtree4x4 (near to me in Sussex) to buy any of the same latches/handles for restorations.
 
Oh well, still no luck with the driver's door lock but replaced the rear door latch with the new shiny one above. The old barrel was jammed in and even depressing the ball and trying to turn the lock it wouldn't budge so I just swapped it out. All seem ok except it wouldn't lock!!!

After some playing around including sitting in the back and closing the door and taking the latch off again and offering it up to the striker I realised the they were about 2-3mm out, so the latch closed to the anti-burst position but not fully to enable locking from the inside or outside. A few minutes later after adjusting the striker plate (2x 10mm bolts in oval slots) and pulling it back a bit, the door now shuts correctly and locks from the inside with the tab and from the outside with the key! A wee bit sloppy though, just as Big Sandy said!
Big Sandy said:
they were fine, bit loose maybe, in the keys
Click to expand...
I can with a bit of jiggery pull it out of the barrel holder :rofl:

That's 2 out of 3 doors now lockable, although being LR locks that's debatable! Still I feel a little less anxious now.

If anybody has a spare early Ninety MUC2290 latch I'd be willing to pay well, but £200 is too much - I could just fit a van deadlock. Thank you.
 
Balls!! :mad: Got 4x 3/16' BB and managed to insert the first two, into the two grooves on the inner holder before sliding in the barrel from the outside, but it slipped and both balls fell out and rolled onto the road and vanished. Attempt #2, placed a dab of vaseline on the balls and then set them in the grooves and repeated. One fell out...but I continued to wiggle the barrel in just to see. Keeping a finger on the inner barrel holder, the handle moved as it should and the lock turned 180 deg so I screwed the hex nut into the back of the barrel, shut the door and tried the lock. No more spinning barrel but it still won't lock. I suppose it needs both balls or I'm doing something wrong or something inside the lock mechanism is busted. Found 4 more 3/16s so I'll have another go tomorrow trying to get both balls in as it were.
 
Not having a good day (see ignition post!)
Got the balls in the grooves of the holder, got holder into lock assembly, got barrel to mate with the holder, secured the backing nut. The key turns the lock the full 180 degrees but the door doesn't lock as the handle opens it regardless of the lock position. Took the barrel out and turned the holder round 180 degrees and reinserted but the same.
On closer inspection of the barrel tube in the door it looks like some of the tube has gone, probably as a result of my drilling out the old seized barrel. By that I mean there's the barrel tube but and inner lining which looks like it stops the barrel from going too far in, but the top part of the liner has gone. When I drilled the barrel out quite a bit of metal came with it, so maybe I've stuffed it completely. No photo as I put it all together again. It never ends with Landys!
 
The barrel tube should look as in the pic - just the two inner bits - but mine only has about half of the inner lining which has the notch at the top...
Untitled.png
Must have been overzealous when drilling out the old barrel :whistle:

Daily trawl of the net, cheapest complete LuH assembly £160+VAT etc :eek:

A deadlock would be cheaper. Ho hum.
 
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